WLC Archives - The Drinks Business

Wine list of the week: The Braywood

Douglas Blyde — Wed, 19 Mar 2025 10:04:45 +0000

Douglas Blyde finds a by-the-glass selection where "everyday meets the exceptional" and an "acutely sweaty Turkish Sauvignon Blanc" at The Braywood in Maidenhead. The Braywood is what happens when a country pub wins the lottery, hires an interior designer with a black belt in taste, and swaps its pint-pulling past for something far more sophisticated. If you prefer a “real pub,” there’s The White Hart down the road, which advertises itself as such on its sign. Michelin notes the former Royal Oak was given a lavish conversion by the team behind The Woodspeen – though Harden’s put it better: “rises from the rubble”. The result? A sleek, contemporary venue where Dover sole and chateaubriand for two are the order of the day. According to Muddy Stilettos, Sam Brennan is “the man behind the wheel of this gastronomical ship.” Over on TripAdvisor, Gloriar puffs: “Would give it six stars if I could!”

Design

Some buildings evolve. Others vanish with the efficiency of a condemned tower block - nothing left but dust, a planning dispute, and a few indignant letters to the local paper. The Royal Oak fell somewhere in between. “A historic pub and former Michelin-starred restaurant has been reduced to a pile of rubble after demolition took place without the permission of the Royal Borough,” reported the Maidenhead Advertiser, with the scandalised tone usually reserved for a missing Vermeer. Yet, not everything was lost. The centrepiece of the old scheme remains, albeit so dramatically reworked that it might as well have entered witness protection. Under architect, Chris Bagot, the past was swept aside in favour of a gleaming contemporary restaurant, with plate glass walls as polished as a Zalto bowl, terrazzo flooring, a marble wine altar, and lush fatsias softening the edges of all that modernity. Come summer, two terraces open onto roosts for birds, bat boxes, and even a hedgehog highway - because in Berkshire, even the local wildlife is afforded good design.

Drinks

Topping out at 600 bins, The Braywood’s list is the largest in a collection which also includes The Sparsholt and The Boxford, both equally well-heeled, but neither quite so lavishly stocked. It is overseen by Jacopo Maroni, a protégé of Edoardo Amadi, director of wines at The Woodspeen. Under his guidance, the selection is both expansive and deliberate, if occasionally generous to a fault. By the glass, the everyday meets the exceptional. A crisp Soave (£6) sits alongside a Turkish Sauvignon Blanc (£9). Bollinger Rosé (£31) brings a touch of Aÿ glamour, while Château Dutruch Grand Poujeaux 2016 (£14 per 125ml) delivers serious Bordeaux in a manageable pour. For something decadent, but not dangerous, Château Guiraud 2015 (£17 per 70ml) is a premier cru Sauternes thick with golden promise. By the bottle, English sparkling takes its place at the table. Hundred Hills sits alongside Champagne’s greats, with Preamble No.2 2019 and Signature Rosé 2018 (both £116), and Hillside No.3 Limited Edition 2019 (£127) making a confident case for homegrown fizz. Bordeaux is led by titans, Latour 2009 (£2,450), Haut-Brion (£1,975), and Lafite (£2,350) - while second wines like Echo de Lynch Bages (£120) offer a more affordable route into the region’s aristocracy. Burgundy is a clear labour of love, with Domaine Leflaive’s Chevalier-Montrachet (£3,350) and Armand Rousseau’s Charmes-Chambertin (£2,300) taking centre stage, while Dujac’s 2011 Gevrey-Chambertin (£332) makes an appearance, given Maroni is a fan, and clearly hopes you are too. And yet, for all its curation, the list does have its sprawl. Three standard Chablis, three white Sancerres, and a full ten Albariños, though to its credit, some hail from Portugal, South Africa, and New Zealand. Then there are ten Californian Chardonnays - a celebration of variety, excess, or a reminiscence for Amadi, who was once wine director at the USA-led The Vineyard, Stockcross. But when it comes to Italy, Maroni finds his focus. The great estates are well represented – Ornellaia, Sassicaia, and the 2015 Masseto (£2,200). Barolo monarchs are firmly in residence, with Giacomo Conterno’s 2003 Cascina Francia (£750) and Roberto Voerzio’s 1997 Brunate (£790). Further afield, there’s Château Musar 1998 (£271), while Didier Dagueneau’s 2018 Pur Sang (£363) is a reminder of a winemaker who saw Sauvignon Blanc as something far grander than a bistro pour. The considered half-bottle list is worth a lingering look, where Burgundy and Bordeaux feature, as does Sassicaia 2008 (£500), a three-glass glimpse into one of Italy’s most sought-after wines. Meanwhile, cocktails include the surprisingly convincing, banana-bittered non-alcoholic Old Fashioned, and gin from sister restaurant The Clockspire.

Dishes

Sam Brennan works with the restaurant collection’s own single finca olive oil, turning out à la carte dishes which feel rooted, generous, and reassuringly unfussy - a contrast to the minimalist interiors, where one half-expects a lecture on foraging and a procession of tasting plates arranged on pebbles. Lunch began with a wonderfully, acutely sweaty Turkish Sauvignon Blanc, drawn theatrically from a marble ice well, a centrepiece somewhere between a font and a folly. Beyond the label’s moon phases, Sevilen 900 Füme Blanc – imported direct by Maroni – hails from Güneym, a region known not only for its wine but also a waterfall. It was poured alongside a pretty starter of Jerusalem artichoke, Castelfranco, cashews, sliced pink lady apple, and balsamic, crowned with an enthusiastic scattering of black truffle. A concern, initially – without enough richness elsewhere to carry it, truffle can sit inert, like a squandered inheritance. But here, the effect was pleasingly savoury, almost suede-like, requiring a moment to adjust before revealing its charms. The wine added its own persuasive argument, lively and conversational. The artichoke, in fact, turned out to be more compelling than the partridge, which came with a hint of raspberry vinegar, warm beetroot, and chicory, along with hazelnuts for texture. The bird itself was polite, though its more interesting bits had been relegated to stock, which felt a shame. The pairing, however, was thoughtful – a warm-year (2017), Nebbiolo-esque Grignolino from Tre Bicchieri, Tenuta Santa Caterina, Monferrato. One of only 30 magnums, from Maroni’s home region of Valtellina, it did its best to bolster the dish’s character. Then came a properly substantial tranche of turbot, well seasoned, with supple clams, homemade strozzapreti, and crisped leek, bathed in a white vermouth sauce which could only have been improved by stirring in a spoonful of caviar. Served alongside, smoked buttered pink fir potatoes, which were so good they almost outshone the fish. The wine, another from Santa Caterina – Silente delle Marne 2020 – was fearless, golden, deep, the product of three altitudes, made by a winemaker who spent time in Puligny-Montrachet, and it showed. It amplified everything, especially those potatoes. The match of the meal. To finish, a chocolate slice with coffee caramel, mascarpone, and a seeded snap, sheer indulgence created by pastry chef, Chiara Russo, paired with Brolo delle Giare Recioto 2017. There was also a taste of the ferment from the operator’s own Linden Estate in Boxford, set to make sparkling wine, though the late-harvest Ortega before us was an appetising, honeysuckle scented blend of three years, with only 3,000 halves available. Maroni noted that guests can visit by arrangement. It could also serve as a perfect aperitif wine.

Last sip

Once a celebrated pub under the tenure of chef of The Crown at Burchett’s Green, Dominic Chapman, the setting is now altogether more refined under Westbury Street Holdings (WSH) – a group which doesn’t so much run restaurants as acquire them and leave them gleaming in their wake. Their reach extends from the banquettes of Searcys to the caffeinated queues of Benugo, via BaxterStorey, which quietly sustains the ambitions of corporate Britain. Even the nation’s prep schools aren’t spared, with Holroyd Howe ensuring little Tarquin’s first encounter with a mille-feuille happens somewhere between Latin and lacrosse. Now, it’s grander, sleeker, its country-pub past still susurrant beneath the surface – reassuring but irrelevant. It has been reupholstered for a new generation of power lunches, with locals returning in numbers and praising the results. A magnum of Camino de Santa Cruz, comprehensively signed by the team at the nearby Fat Duck, sits as testament to its welcome among the old guard. One suspects former owner, Michael Parkinson, would have admired its ambition. His son, Nick, certainly does - he’s already been back five times. Because WSH doesn’t deal in half measures or half-finished projects. As Parkinson himself put it: “I finish every book I start.”

Best for

Italy and homegrown wines
Sleek design
Traditional cooking

Value: 94, Size: 96, Range: 96, Originality: 96, Experience: 96; Total: 95.6 The Braywood - Paley St, Littlefield Green, Maidenhead SL6 3JN; 01628 361873; thebraywood.co.uk

Is this London’s best corkage deal?

Louis Thomas — Wed, 12 Mar 2025 08:53:12 +0000

Italian-inspired steakhouse chain Macellaio RC has offered free corkage across its three London restaurants for more than a decade. db finds out whether the deal is too good to be true. With locations in Soho, South Kensington and Exmouth Market, Macellaio RC is the brainchild of Genova-born Roberto Costa. The restaurant's focus is on Fassona beef, an especially delicious breed of cattle native to Piemonte, grilled and then served in the Florentine style – sliced and then presented around the bone. As with any London steakhouse, Macellaio RC is not cheap: lardo on toast is £15, a 250g Argentine fillet steak will set you back £42, and a cut-to-order slab of Fassona steak comes in at £120 per kilogram. The sort of diner who is prepared to spend such a sum is probably not going to quibble over buying a heavily-marked-up bottle of chewy red to complement their tender beef, which makes the restaurant's decision to allow customers to bring their own booze at no additional cost all the more intriguing.

Corkage

"We actually started introducing free corkage back in 2012, initially for wine connoisseurs and people in the wine trade," says operations manager Emanuele Serra. "In the past few years, we've made a bigger effort to promote it to all of our guests." Although Macellaio RC used to charge a £10 corkage fee, it scrapped that in favour of the free corkage policy it maintains today. "We truly believe that everyone should be able to enjoy our steaks with their favourite or special bottle — something we might not necessarily have on our list," argues Serra. "We want to make this possible without extra fees." Giuseppe Ciriello, general manager of the Soho restaurant, points out that there are no catches, even regarding format size: "There are no restrictions, and no limitations on large formats, sparkling wines, etc. Customers can bring in the biggest bottle ever if they want, it would be impressive to see!" "We’ve seen some incredible old vintages, from niche producers to some of the greatest wines in history," says Serra. Picking one standout bottle brought along by a customer, Ciriello singles out a Gaja Barbaresco from the 2008 vintage due to its "complex flavour characteristics". A magnum of said wine (Gaja Barbaresco Sori San Lorenzo 2008) is listed on Bordeaux Index for a price of £450. Although Macellaio RC sees its fair share of customers bringing their own bottles, Serra shares that "many" still buy wines, either as bottles or by-the-glass, from the wine list "to start or finish their meal with". According to Ciriello, the best-selling wine by-the-glass at Macellaio RC Soho is a Castelli Romani DOC Sangiovese originating from Lazio. As for the blockbuster bottles which diners order, it is a toss up between two robust Italian reds: Nebbiolo d'Alba and Sant'Ilario Chianti – perhaps appropriate, given the restaurant's combination of Piemontese produce with Tuscan style.

Wine list of the week: Locale Firenze

Douglas Blyde — Mon, 10 Mar 2025 09:12:45 +0000

Douglas Blyde continues his trip around Florence with a visit to Locale Firenze, where "medieval stonework and Renaissance grandeur rub shoulders with cocktail lab wizardry". Framed within the historic Concini Palace, Locale Firenze is less a restaurant and bar, and more, as The World’s 50 Best Bars describes it, “a time machine that takes you both backwards and forwards.” Back to the 1200s, when the palace was built, and the 1500s, when it gained its elaborate Renaissance features recalling the time of the Medici. And forward, to a bar ranked 36th best in the world, where cutting-edge mixology uses lab tech to craft low-waste cocktails which harness seasonal produce. Step into the lounge bar, and as Condé Nast Traveler notes, you’ll find bartenders in vests and ties, surrounded by “mini-greenhouses that store micro garnishes, eccentric glassware, dry ice, and foamed ingredients.” Michelin praises Simone Caponnetto’s “creative, innovative cuisine”, from globally influenced plates to standouts like “Risoni pasta with cuttlefish liver and cherry tomatoes.” The Sybarite’s Lucy Corcoran simply calls it “an otherworldly dining experience.” But be warned, as TripAdvisor’s “sbh56” from Los Angeles put it: “if you’re not an adventurous eater, you should probably choose another place.” This is Florence at its most daring – and delicious.

Design

Stepping into Locale Firenze is like opening a Florentine history book, only with optional disco lights illuminating its warren of subterranean private rooms, and considerably more alcohol. Beneath the bar’s polished floors, where the likes of Leonardo di Caprio hold their parties, an ancient fireplace still bears the insignia of the Knights of Santo Stefano, a symbol once stamped onto loaves before baking, presumably to remind diners who they had to thank for their daily bread. Alongside the rhythmic shake of cocktail tins, the soundtrack includes Buvard by Diskay and Diana Krall’s S'Wonderful.

Drinks

Stored wherever space permits, including beside remnants of a Roman amphitheatre, and within a former well, the list is overseen by the ebullient, Burgundy-loving, Stefano Rizzi who spent six years as a sommelier at Florence’s famed Enoteca Pinchiorri, before moving to London, where he worked with Chris and Jeff Galvin. The expansive sparkling selection spans Dom Pérignon back to 1993 (€1,900), alongside Armand de Brignac (€790) for those who prefer their bottles golden. Outliers include Domaine Les Monts Fournois Champagne Grand Cru Vallée 2014, sourced from a single plot in Aÿ (€490), while homegrown options extend to a rare sparkler from Bruno Giacosa – Extra Brut 2018 (€90). Even Sussex gets representation. Still wines open at a democratic €45 for albeit polarising, chestnut barrel raised, flor wine, Contini Vernaccia di Oristano 2018. Around the €60 mark, there are nearly 40 options, including Chapoutier’s Les Meysonniers 2022 Marsanne, a terracotta-aged Castello di Lispida 2019 Ribolla Friulana, and, from across the border, a Slovenian entry – Gredič Movia Exto Gredič 2021 Friulano. At the opposite end of the spectrum, the list peaks, as it so often does in premium establishments, with 2012 Romanée-Saint-Vivant from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (€3,800). That rarefied air is reached via the long lees aged Terlano Rarity 2011 Pinot Bianco (€440), Tenuta di Trinoro Palazzi 1998 with its palm tree label (€1,800), Lafite 1978 (€2,500), Masseto 2001 (€2,600), and Cheval Blanc 1995 (€2,200). For those with a sweet tooth, halves include Petreto Pourriture Noble 1998 from Tuscany (€105) and Austrian Tschida Chardonnay Beerenauslese 2017 (€70/37.5cl). If there’s one criticism, it would be Locale Firenze’s timidity to stray outside Europe, especially given Caponnetto has worked in Australia, Japan, and the USA. Crafted by Fabio Fanni and Alessandro Mengoni, Locale Firenze’s cocktails might include “Giardiniera”, mixing blueberries, pickles, rye whisky, champagne, and chili, while “Locatini” is a briny blend of olive distillate, Fino, and salt. Jars of kombuchas, including one informed by hemp teems away in the depths of the palace, provoking non-drinkers to participate.

Dishes

Locale is flamboyant, and so are the dishes of Mugaritz-trained Simone Caponnetto. The tasting menus - ours titled “Awareness” - are blind, a gamble of trust. If you’d rather not take the leap, the à la carte options are printed plainly, no concessions required. The opening assaggio consists of an interpretation of traditional Tuscan stew, reduced to its barest essence, with borlotti beans, alongside a trio of mussels blanketed in spicy butter, bringing depth and warmth. This is followed by more substantial snacks, perched on gilded plinths. A white Americano infused with gentian, citrus, and fennel acts as the transition. A convincingly sculpted vegan burratina, wrought from pine nuts, proves slightly gritty but earnest in its imitation. A tartiflette of Jerusalem artichoke and chocolate is an unexpected but welcome refreshment, while a crisped Parmesan and artichoke wafer with egg yolk offers the most textural pleasure. The bread trolley, handled with white-gloved precision, presents classic unsalted Tuscan slices, doused in olive oil formed from a trinity of olive varieties, alongside olive bread with a remarkable olive butter - aromatised with roasted chicken and apple, its meat repurposed for staff meals, and dusted with fermented black lemon. Later, a powerful bay butter makes an appearance, its potency in need of some restraint. A stingray-shaped bread, however, naughtily evokes a spicy, posh ‘Wotsit’ in flavour – a culinary in-joke? Next, deer tartare, heightened by anchovy sauce, is theatrically finished at the table with fermented summer blackberries and served on a dish which mimics an inverted lunar landscape. It finds cheerful companionship in Franz Haas’ 2022 Pinot Noir. Then, tuna belly, treated as if it were pork belly, is paired with candied pepper, beef fat, and confit bergamot, presented on a rose-gold plate - excess in its finest form. Caponnetto’s Japanese stage is represented by a Tuscan-inflected chawanmushi, steeped in fish stock and ornamented with mussels, caviar, and champagne. Sommelier Rizzi notes its liminality - neither wholly savoury, nor sweet - and prescribes a measured pour of Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler’s 2004 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese, its origins in the marine Devonian blue slate of the Mosel lending it an incense-scented equilibrium. The “staff pasta” follows: cappelletti, suggestive in form and filled with wood pigeon, chestnut, and crushed hazelnuts - the best pairing of the evening, with 2019 Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino, dispensed via Coravin. Then, tripe, vacuum-packed and slow-cooked in Parmesan water, a dish which required some head-scratching to pair, ultimately finding its match in a 2009 Extra Brut Champagne from Bouché Père & Fils. Rizzi recalls that such dishes continue to bewilder locals who, unmoored from the safe harbours of Chianti Classico and T-bones, ultimately find delight in surprise. The centrepiece is aged pigeon, rested in truffle miso for over 15 days, cleansed at intervals of two. It arrives with a glass of right bank Beauséjour 2008, poured into a Riedel Superleggero. First, the raw baby fillet, then the breast, finished in an oven of Calabrian charcoal, imbued with rosemary, bay, cinnamon, and black pepper. A smoked broth is served in a dainty teacup, accompanied by savoury liver brûlée, while radicchio, tangled like Medusa’s hair, glistens in chestnut honey. Finally, as Marina O’Loughlin noted, “breakfast” masquerades as dessert, where koji informs rice pudding, caramelised zabaglione, and bitter coffee ice cream, paired with an espresso martini which swaps vodka with shochu and white rum. Hats off, too, to the cassata, its silken texture owed to veal tendons - a whisper of the unexpected. And in a final flourish of hospitality, the team captures guests on a Polaroid, freezing - a souvenir of indulgence, texturally frozen in time.

Last sip

Locale Firenze is what happens when history meets hedonism, where the Medici might have raised a toast to molecular mixology had they known what a centrifuge was. It’s a place which embraces both the ancient and avant-garde - where medieval stonework and Renaissance grandeur rub shoulders with cocktail lab wizardry and menus which demand a sense of adventure. Whether you’re sipping an olive distillate martini under a chandelier that has seen centuries of scandal or marvelling at the alchemy of a truffle-miso aged pigeon, the experience, much like the best stories – is rich, bold, and impossible to forget.

Best for

Acclaimed international cocktails and Europe-led wine list
Labyrinth of private rooms
Generous, true hospitality

Locale Firenze - Via delle Seggiole, 12r, 50122 Firenze, Italy; +39 055 906 7188; info@localefirenze.it; localefirenze.it

Gaucho launches all-female wine list

Louis Thomas — Fri, 07 Mar 2025 09:17:46 +0000

Argentine-style steakhouse chain Gaucho has launched a special wine list this month to raise money for Women's Aid. Tying in with International Women's Day tomorrow (8 March), throughout the month of March, Gaucho, which has 20 steakhouses across the UK, concentrated mainly in London, has unveiled a wine list highlighting the work of female winemakers. The list features eight bottles in total, and is as follows:

White

Planeta La Segreta 2022 – Grillo – Sicily (£57 for a 75cl bottle) Quinta do Crasto Superior 2021 – Viosinho and Verdelho – Douro (£64) Susana Balbo Barrel Fermented Signature 2023 – Torrontes – Paraje Altamira, Uco Valley (£82) Catena Zapata White Bones 2019 – Chardonnay – Gualtallary, Uco Valley (£150)

Red

Catena Zapata Appellation Vista Flores 2021 – Malbec – Mendoza (£59) Susana Balbo Signature 2022 – Malbec – San Carlos (£85) Catena Zapata Catena Alta 2018 – Malbec – Lujan de Cuyo and Uco Valley (£120) Catena Zapata Malbec Argentino 2020 – Malbec – Lujan de Cuyo and Uco Valley (£175) Of the eight bottles on the list, four are the work of Dr Laura Catena, the fourth generation of the Catena family to lead the estate, which celebrated its 120th anniversary last year. Catena, with her medical background, has also been one of the key voices in defending wine's place in society. Gaucho will donate £5 for each bottle sold to Women's Aid, which offers support for women and children who are the victims of domestic abuse. Head sommelier Marina Diaz said that the contributions of women to the wine industry were "often overlooked". "We wanted to create a menu that not only highlights their incredible talent but also gives back to a cause that directly supports women in need," continued Diaz. "Every bottle on this list tells a story of dedication, expertise, and passion, making us very proud to support Women's Aid in their vital work." Faye Connelly, head of fundraising at Women's Aid, added: "Partnerships like this help ensure we can continue our work in protecting women and children from harm and driving forward the movement to end domestic abuse for good."

The Folkestone Wine Company closes

Louis Thomas — Tue, 04 Mar 2025 17:03:14 +0000

The Folkestone Wine Company has announced that it will shut its doors this May as the restaurant's owners prepare to launch a new project.

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"What we wanted Folkestone Wine Company to be was a relaxed neighbourhood restaurant serving great seasonal food and lovely wines to the people of Folkestone and beyond. I’d say we’ve nailed the brief," co-owner David Hart told the drinks business. The restaurant, which opened in Kent in 2015, is the brainchild of Hart and co-owner/partner Polly Pleasence. The Folkestone Wine Company was praised by The Guardian's Grace Dent in 2018, who was glowing about how this "independent labour of love" which "not everyone will get". Dent also noted that visitors ought to have "empathy for how hard it is for places such as this even to keep the lights on". It will close its doors for the final time on 18 May. "We’ve run the restaurant with ourselves as the only full-time workers for virtually all of our tenure," explained Hart. "We have fabulous staff who help us out when they can on the busier services but, we’re both still doing the jobs of two people. 14 hour days do strange things to your body and soul. With more than 60 years in hospitality between us, a proper break is long overdue. Despite the restaurant being busier than ever we feel like the time is right to take a break on our own terms and recharge before creating something new." The environment of the UK's hospitality industry has become increasingly hostile, a result of a perfect storm of the Covid-19 pandemic, Brexit, and, perhaps most pressing, the upcoming changes to National Insurance. "Despite being full more often than not we won’t pretend for a minute that it’s easy," said Hart. "In fact in more than three decades in the business, the economic outlook for restaurants in general is as harsh as it’s ever been." As for what is next for Hart and co-owner and Pleasence once The Folkestone Wine Company closes, Hart said that they would take a "short sabbatical" before launching the "new project" later this year, though details regarding the latter are currently under wraps.

Giorgio Locatelli to open National Gallery restaurant and café

Louis Thomas — Tue, 04 Mar 2025 12:42:09 +0000

Giorgio Locatelli is due to open a new restaurant at London's National Gallery in May after he closed his Michelin-starred Locanda Locatelli at the beginning of this year. The closure of Locanda Locatelli in the West End in January of this year came about due to "reasons beyond our control," according to a statement from the restaurant. Having operated for 23 years, the restaurant received critical praise and in 2003, just a year after opening, a coveted Michelin Star. However, Locatelli and his wife and business partner Plaxy Locatelli have already announced their next venture, which will see the pair open a restaurant and café in the Sainsbury Wing of London's National Gallery, situated adjacent to Trafalgar Square, this May. Called 'Locatelli', the restaurant will, according to publicity from the National Gallery, "offer a unique chance to experience Giorgio's celebrated Italian cooking through a menu reflecting the history and creativity of our building and the paintings within". Furthermore, the foyer of the Sainsbury Wing will also include Café Giorgio, an Italian-inspired coffee bar which will also serve maritozzi – sweetened buns filled with whipped cream which are a popular accompaniment to espresso, especially in Rome. The Grade I-listed Sainsbury Wing, which was constructed in 1991, has been under refurbishment since early 2023. It is due to reopen in May, meaning that it will be able to take visitors for the latter half of the National Gallery's bicentenary year.

Cultural connection

This will not be Locatelli's first time dabbling in the world of fine art. He co-presented the BBC's ...Unpacked series alongside art historian and writer Andrew Graham-Dixon. Starting with Sicily Unpacked in 2012, then with several series of Italy Unpacked, and concluding with Rome Unpacked in 2018, the duo travelled across Locatelli's home country, discovering the artistic and culinary treasures in each region. Perhaps fittingly, the promotional photo for the announcement of Locatelli's new restaurant features him standing in front of a painting by Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio, the ill-tempered baroque artist who himself was the subject of an acclaimed biography by Graham-Dixon. The arrival of Locatelli at the National Gallery is a move similar to when Richard Corrigan opened his contemporary British eatery The Portrait at the nearby National Portrait Gallery in summer 2023.

Wine list of the week: Il Palagio at Four Seasons Firenze

Douglas Blyde — Mon, 03 Mar 2025 09:15:08 +0000

Douglas Blyde visits the Four Seasons in Florence for a taste of executive chef Paolo Lavezzini's cooking at the "gastronomic daydream" that is Il Palagio. Florence is a living theatre of art and excess, where every corner has been painted, sung about, or chiselled into eternity. But even in this gilded setting, the Four Seasons stands apart: a Renaissance palazzo enfolded by the city’s largest private park. “It seems made to host the Anglo-Florentine elite that [Henry] James evoked in novels like The Portrait of a Lady,” wrote Lee Marshall in Condé Nast Traveller. At its heart is Il Palagio, the hotel’s sanctum, where executive chef Paolo Lavezzini presides over a menu which reveres Italian tradition while reinterpreting its rules. “Italian by heart and Brazilian by soul,” as Michelin, which bestowed a star, describes him, Lavezzini spent years refining his craft in São Paulo before bringing that sensibility to Florence. “A great interpreter of Italian cuisine, and above all seasonal,” Firenze Made In Tuscany proclaimed. In The Times, Matthew Bell was taken by his artistry, describing how he “turns slices of tomatoes into air-dried sculptures and fuses flavours like peach, sage, and almond.” Then there’s the wine, handled with poise by head sommelier, Walter Meccia. A man whose credentials are as polished as his stemware, Meccia was named on Forbes’ 40 Under 40 in the wine industry – a recognition which TripAdvisor’s Kyle F saw fit to note: “A big shout out to the sommelier, who truly deserved his awards.”

Design

There are restorations, and then there are resurrections. The Four Seasons Florence, housed within the Palazzo della Gherardesca, is the latter – a triumph of preservation, vision, and exquisite indulgence. Built between 1473 and 1480 for Bartolomeo Scala - Lorenzo de’ Medici’s scholar-diplomat – the Palazzo was among the first urban villas to reject the city’s clamour for the serenity of country estates. Alberti’s theories of suburban grandeur were brought to life here: a home which was both a fortress and a retreat. Renaissance artisans graced its halls with frescoes, bas-reliefs, and trompe-l’œil trickery – each inch a declaration of taste, wealth, and power. History has made a habit of repurposing such places. The estate became a convent, then a cardinal’s residence, then a repository for dynastic ambition under the formidable Della Gherardesca family. By 1901, it was officially deemed a national treasure, though like all grand old things, it needed new patrons to stop the rot. Enter Four Seasons, which in 2001 embarked on an ambitious ongoing restoration, overseen by Pierre-Yves Rochon. Few restorations manage to capture the essence of a place while refining it. This is a Florentine masterpiece in motion, where history does not sit still, but unfurls with each passing guest.

Drinks

Not only a fanatic of wine, but chocolate, too, Walter Meccia, assisted by Cosimo Massaro and Francesco Moradei, presides over a vast cellar blending classic prestige with modern flair. By the Spiegelau Definition glass, options span from Tarlant Brut Nature champagne from the Marne (€30) to Adega do Vulcão’s cement-fermented Azorean Ameixambar 2021 (€22), Frescobaldi Gorgona 2023 (€45) - an island wine made in collaboration with inmates - and the 2018 debut of “Dalla Valle & Ornellaia DVO” (€170), a once-secret Bordeaux blend from California. Meccia curates an extensive champagne selection, weaving in Plénitudes of Dom Pérignon alongside rare vintages from Selosse, which he recently visited, Egly-Ouriet, and Billecart-Salmon. The list peaks with Krug Clos du Mesnil 2008 (€5,000) - one of 22 wines from the year the hotel opened - and 2013 La Côte Aux Enfants Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru (€2,200). Lovers of metodo classico will find a well-chosen Italian contingent, including Nicola Gatta Arcano 180 Lune Nature Riserva (€270) from the easternmost pocket of Franciacorta. Still wines range from the idiosyncratic Tenuta Dettori 2006 Chimbanta Monica (€60) which one Cellar Tracker reviewer summed as “odd-but-wow” – to Romanée-Conti 2019 Monopole (€29,000). Given we are in Tuscany, Il Palagio leans heavily into the Super Tuscans, with deep verticals of Sassicaia, Ornellaia, Masseto, Solaia, and Tignanello. The 2021 Sassicaia (€900), 2018 Ornellaia (€800), and 2020 Masseto (€2,700) sit alongside back vintages such as 1988 Sassicaia (€1,900) and a three-litre 2015 Masseto (€14,000). Brunello di Montalcino is another stronghold, with Biondi-Santi Riservas from 2016 (€1,300) and 2010 (€2,200), plus Poggio di Sotto and Salvioni. Further north, Barolo is equally well-stocked, featuring Giacomo Conterno, Roagna, Cappellano, and Giuseppe Mascarello. Highlights include 2019 Pira Vecchie Viti Barolo (€980) and 2015 Giacomo Conterno Arione (€650). Beyond Italy, Bordeaux’s presence is felt with Château Léoville Las Cases 1990 (€1,500), while Burgundy whites include Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet 2018 (€4,600) and Jean Chartron Bâtard-Montrachet 2022 (€1,650). For those veering off-piste, Jura is represented by Pierre Overnoy 2003 Vieux Savagnin Ouillé (€900). Meanwhile, at the property’s new sea-focused restaurant, Onde (“waves”), in the newly revealed Palazzo Del Nero, guests can try a selection of orange wines, including Paraschos Kai 2021 (€95), a structured Friulano, and pure-seeming whites such as Hofstatter Barthenau 2021 Pinot Bianco from Alto Adige (€100). There’s also unusually opulent rosé in the form of Gerard Bertrand’s Clos du Temple 2021 (€400). All best enjoyed alongside oysters, Tyrrhenian red tuna, and seared octopus. If there is a criticism, it is the absence of truly old vintages - the 1985 Biondi-Santi Tenuta Greppo Brunello di Montalcino (€1,200) being the cellar’s elder statesman. However, plans are afoot for a new showpiece facility.

Dishes

Fresh from sampling the clay-raised Gran Selezione from Fontodi at the city’s Chianti Classico Collection festival, Meccia opened with incisive, non-dosage Tarlant, setting the stage for an opening act built around February’s vegetable of the month - beetroot. It appeared first in an improbably crisp, whisper-thin disc, then in a sculptural procession atop marble plinths, an apparent nod to the quarries which built this city. The best interpretation? A beetroot-infused cannoli with a shell so fine it shattered like spun sugar. The most unusual? A quivering beetroot aspic, a curious positioning for an earthy vegetable, foreshadowing the evening’s more esoteric diversions. The amuse-bouche prolonged the beetroot theme, blending it into a silky cream with young kimchi - the latter’s fermented bite closing on an unexpected bitterness. Then came the bread course, a spectacle in itself: 40-inch-long grissini, one slick with olive oil and salt, the other, of course, beetroot-hued. Alongside naturally leavened bread made with Verna, an ancient Tuscan wheat with minimal gluten, the butters impressed – one perfumed with sage, another redolent of star anise, cloves, and cinnamon; only a purple beetroot butter was missing. Then, venison tartare – impeccable, but given an unexpected maritime lilt with the addition of seaweed, brightened by winter lemon, laced with Bourbon vanilla, and topped with dark chocolate flakes, curiously close in appearance to confectionery. A dish both provocative and perplexing. Meccia, resisting the temptation of red, attempted to bisect its contradictions with the 8% Fritz Haag Juffer 2022 Riesling Kabinett – though in the end, Tarlant’s blade proved sharper. When in doubt, apply Champagne. Smoked spaghetti alla chitarra followed, featuring double-marinated mullet flesh – evoking, and arguably exceeding, an opulent dose of bottarga. Fermented plums and amaranth rounded out its sharp-edged salinity, though our borrowed Stefano Ricci tie (from the neatly arranged stash in the frescoed hotel suite) began to feel like an increasingly poor decision. The dish, though pungent at first, grew friendlier with each forkful, aided by Meccia’s choice of Appius 2019 from Südtirol – a Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon, and Pinot Bianco blend, all preserved lemon brightness and aristocratic oak, sailing through the mullet’s intensity like a grand Riva. For the shared main, Meccia poured a well-aired Super Tuscan, fitting for a restaurant in the grape’s homeland – the freshly released Tignanello 2021. This met whole pigeon, brined to perfection, carved tableside by Lavezzini. The stuffing – a luxurious amalgam of black bread, dates, and cured beef belly – transformed each bite into something rich, met by Tuscan red beans in an earthy counterpoint. Here, Lavezzini’s command of meat was evident. Pre-dessert swung back to beetroot - this time offset by lemongrass foam and berry sorbet with kvass, served slightly warm and, unexpectedly, most successful. Then, the finale, by pastry chef, Mariano Dileo, a crisp millefeuille of caramelised puff pastry layered with fennel and anise-scented coffee cream. Paired with Rossella Bencini Tesi’s 2014 Vin Santo, it was a perfect coda – all bitter-sweet, aromatic depth, and crumbling, burnished edges.

Last sip

Il Palagio operates with the assurance of a place which knows exactly what it is: a bastion of Florentine grandeur, wrapped in the soft glow of a world which has little interest in passing trends. But beneath the gilt and grace, the kitchen is quietly subverting expectations. This is Italian fine dining – measured, meticulous, but laced with a streak of irreverence. Familiar flavours are bent, stretched, and sometimes broken, only to be reassembled with precision. By the time the last shard of caramelised millefeuille dissolves and the Vin Santo makes its farewell, the outside world has shrunk, something to be dealt with later, after one more glass in this gastronomic daydream.

Best for

Champagne and Tuscany
Sumptuous, historic setting
Abstract flavour combinations

Il Palagio at Four Seasons Firenze - Borgo Pinti, 99, 50121 Firenze, Italy; +39 055 262 6450; ilpalagioristorante.it

The Five Fields announces closure

Louis Thomas — Wed, 26 Feb 2025 13:17:07 +0000

Michelin-starred Chelsea restaurant The Five Fields has announced that it will close at the end of this week after operating for more than a decade.

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Opened by chef patron Taylor Bonnyman in 2013, The Five Fields takes its name from what that part of West London was referred to as before creeping urbanisation made it the metropolitan neighbourhood it is today. In 2017 it won its Michelin Star, and the Michelin Guide applauded its "attractively presented and skilfully conceived dishes", "top notch" produce, and "extensive wine list" which offers some "esoteric bottles". The current iteration of the tasting menu costs £170 and features dishes ranging from hay-caramelised sweetbread to rhubarb tart.

Closure

An Instagram post from the restaurant shared: "It is with heavy hearts that after more than 12 years we will be closing our doors with the last service this Friday 28 February. We are incredibly grateful to all of our guests for their generous patronage and support over the years, as well as to our dedicated suppliers who have provided us with the finest ingredients and support." ⁠ "Most importantly," it continued, "we would like to express our profound gratitude and appreciation to our exceptional team members, past and present, who have always been the driving force behind our successes. ⁠We are truly honoured to have been part of the hospitality community for the last dozen years and look forward to future projects.⁠" A precise reason for the decision to shut has not yet been provided. ⁠ It seems that even Michelin Star status cannot save some London restaurants. After a 23 year stint in the West End, Locanda Locatelli was one of the first casualties of the new year. The Five Fields retained its star in the latest edition of the Michelin Guide, with several new entries to the pantheon of restaurants, including one entirely vegan eatery.

Chefs Clare Smyth and Daniel Boulud head to Admiralty Arch

Louis Thomas — Tue, 25 Feb 2025 09:44:41 +0000

Clare Smyth and Daniel Boulud have been named as two of the chef partners of the Waldorf Astoria London Admiralty Arch, due to open in 2026. Originally due to open as a hotel in 2022, the Grade I-listed Admiralty Arch served as the residence of the First Sea Lord of the Royal Navy. The luxury hotel will have 100 rooms, a rooftop brasserie and a ballroom once it is operational next year. Now Smyth, who heads up Core by Clare Smyth on Kensington Park Road, and Boulud, the restaurateur with fine dining eateries across North America, have been announced as partners of the new hotel. Northern Ireland-born Smyth first came to prominence when working with Gordon Ramsay, serving as chef patron of Restaurant Gordon Ramsay in Chelsea before taking on her own restaurant, and she remains the only British female chef to have been awarded three Michelin Stars. Boulud, who is originally from Lyon, arrived in New York in 1982. His 65th Street restaurant Daniel, which opened in 1993, currently holds one Michelin star. "With Clare Smyth and Daniel Boulud both confirmed to bring new culinary concepts to the property, Waldorf Astoria London Admiralty Arch is set to be a truly exceptional dining destination in the heart of the British capital," commented general manager Guillaume Marly, as quoted in Boutique Hotelier. "We look forward to unveiling more details about these exciting chef partnerships in the coming months."

Fine dining resurgence?

While 2025 has already seen some longstanding fine dining restaurants in London fall, including Giorgio Locatelli's Locanda Locatelli in the West End, not every business is scaling back. Last week it was confirmed that Gordon Ramsay had taken out a lease on the site which housed Le Gavroche, with plans to have Matt Abé, currently chef patron of Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, leading the kitchen.

Wine list of the week: Hélène Darroze at The Connaught

Douglas Blyde — Mon, 24 Feb 2025 09:16:55 +0000

Douglas Blyde discovers "space, time, and faultless execution" on a visit to Hélène Darroze at The Connaught and a 3,000-strong wine collection which reads like "a billionaire’s shopping list". There are dining rooms, and then there is this – a stage for power, privilege, and those who still pay for newspapers. “I am certain it is the dining room in Princess Daisy,” mused Tanya Gold in The Spectator, picturing Russian princes, Robert Maxwell, and Margaret Thatcher surveying the scene. Under Hélène Darroze for 17 years, it hasn’t merely kept up with London’s shifting tides – it’s “in turbo-charge,” according to The Good Food Guide. For Condé Nast Traveler, Lydia Bell put it simply: “Anything and everything is possible.” Michelin insists the signature Baba, doused in Armagnac from Hélène’s brother Marc, is “a must.” TripAdvisor’s Michel Instar, unafraid to take down sacred cows like Restaurant Gordon Ramsay and Manteca, went further: “Re-mortgaged my house for the Chef’s Table…it was just sublime.”

Design

Darroze sees everything. From Ema Pradere’s hand-thrown consommé bowls to Hermès’ Bleu D’Ailleurs tea and coffee service, every detail is deliberate, every artisan chosen with precision. Pierre Yovanovitch has stripped away the gloom, replacing heavy oak with light, texture, and flow. Banquettes curve in pink, tan, and velvet, coaxing diners in. A hand-blown glass chandelier - blue lacquered wrought iron adding bite - hovers over oak tables with red ceramic-lacquered bases, while Damien Hirst’s commissioned works stand sentinel. Below, the show kitchen unveils a pink marble Chef’s Table on a terrazzo plinth, ringed by ten plush armchairs beneath a Rochegaussen cobalt fresco. Matteo Gonet lamps glow over pale oak panelling, setting the stage for a looser, livelier affair where menus bend, chefs engage, and dishes arrive with personal panache.

Drinks

A word on prices. The old adage goes: double them, halve the customers, work less. At The Connaught, the numbers induce vertigo for mere mortals, but for those with the means, what they buy isn’t just dinner – it’s space, time and faultless execution. No frantic turnover, no tables wedged together – just proper service, immaculate sourcing, and room to breathe. Should civilisation collapse, a wise soul would take refuge in The Connaught’s cellars, corkscrew in hand. Overseeing this vinous fortress is Daniel Manetti, a Tuscan-born bartender turned Corporate Director of Wine at Maybourne Hotel Group, living by the motto "keep pushing and never give up". His team, led by head sommelier Lucas Renaud-Paligot, includes Benjamin Yip, a former lawyer who wisely defected to wine, having cut his teeth at 1890 by Gordon Ramsay. Together, they preside over 3,000 labels, with thousands more in bond, forming collections which read like a billionaire’s shopping list: Leflaive, Coche-Dury, Rousseau, Romanée-Conti, d’Yquem, Cheval Blanc, Egon Müller, Vega Sicilia, Quinta do Noval. The Champagne selection is an embarrassment of riches, from Krug and Billecart-Salmon to grower fizz listed by village, plus quality grower English fizz, Hundred Hills, bottled in magnum and beyond. By the glass, choices veer from the head-scratching – Rumor [sic] Rosé 2022 (£24/125ml) – to the jaw-dropping: Pétrus 2007 (£950, via Coravin) and Dom Pérignon P2 2004 (£165). A sake offering (from £20/100ml) and Italian cider from Aosta (£15) hint at the team’s catholic tastes. By the bottle, entry-level sits at a fair £60 for Kyperounda Winery’s Xynisteri Petritis 2018, though things swiftly escalate. Château d’Yquem 1921 (£50,000) outprices Romanée-Conti La Romanée 1985 (£45,000), while cork-stoppered antiques range from D’Oliveiras Malvasia Madeira 1895 (£4,500) to Cheval Blanc 1939 (£19,500), Krug in magnum 1952 (£9,500), and Unico 1953 (£6,500). Other big bottles include Krug Collection 1979 magnum (£18,500) and a double magnum of Harlan 2001 at the same price. Corkage? A neat £250 per bottle. And then there’s the bars. Currently ranked 13th place, The Connaught Bar has held its place in The World’s 50 Best Bars since 2010, just two years after opening. At the helm since day one, Ago Perrone sees its greatest achievement as knowing what not to change. The famous martini trolley still makes its rounds, service remains a masterclass, and cocktails are delivered with impeccable style - think the “Eclipse,” evoking a silky Negroni, pepped by a base wine personally persuaded from Oxfordshire. Across the hall, The Coburg Bar, in no way a lesser sibling, boasts an enviable whisky selection overseen by Mehdi Ichedadene, including a rotating plinth in the window which has played host to the oldest Macallan releases to date. The Connaught isn’t just its bars or restaurants, though - it’s an institution, a shrine to good taste, and, for those lucky enough to afford it, a place where luxury is more than a concept - it’s a given, stitched into the monogrammed napkins.

Dishes

Born into a dynasty of chefs in Les Landes, Hélène Darroze first flirted with restaurant management before Alain Ducasse dragged her, willingly, into the kitchen. After honing her craft at her family’s Relais & Châteaux restaurant, she struck out solo in Paris, earning acclaim and, eventually, two Michelin stars at Marsan. London came calling in 2008 with The Connaught, where she bagged a Michelin star in six months, a second in 2011, and the ultimate third in 2021. Her cooking is instinctive, emotional, and unapologetically ingredient-led - a love letter to Les Landes, the Pays Basque, and Britain’s finest producers. Along the way, she inspired Pixar’s Ratatouille character Colette, judged Top Chef, and became one of the world’s most decorated female chefs. Now, with restaurants from Mayfair to Marrakech, Darroze proves that while some chefs chase trends, the best make their own rules. Renaud-Paligot set the tempo at the start of this lunch menu with Billecart-Salmon Blanc de Blancs, poured into Zalto glasses so fine they might shatter under a stern glance - a prelude to a broth of mushroom and pine, dark and loamy as the undergrowth after a downpour, ladled into a vessel begging to be cupped. Then, a tartare of juniper-cured venison, the kind of canapé which might slip through customs in a diplomatic pouch. Beside it, verdigris-effect plates for a sourdough-rye hybrid, flanked by butter sultry with piment d’Espelette. For the blue lobster starter – scented with tandoori spice and set against carrot, brown butter, and citrus mousseline – the chosen pairings occupied each other’s personalities, with acidity as the fulcrum. The 2021 Vieux Télégraphe Blanc, a “new wave” white Châteauneuf-du-Pape fermented in stainless steel rather than oak, offered purity and mineral tension, its clarity framing the dish with precision. In contrast, the 2018 Szepsy Furmint from Hungary, likened by Renaud-Paligot to a Saint-Aubin, layered oak with electric energy, serving as a diplomatic alternative for those still wary of sweetness. Each wine played off the other – the former defined by its freshness, the latter by its depth - creating a dynamic balance. With the scallop-sized ris de veau, licked by a chicken jus so rich it should have held a title deed, and uplifted by dehydrated tuna heart with a bottarga-like depth, came the pairing of the day: Barbera d’Alba Donna Elena 2011 from Cascina delle Rose. Poured from magnum, still fresh, its acidity a ribbon tying the dish together. Next, Brittany pigeon, its breast a plump jewel, its confit leg bound in butcher’s string so diners could wield it like a drumstick without scandalising the linen. Blood orange, delicia pumpkin, and mole – dark, thrillingly bitter, and deeply spiced – conjured a dish which should be available via room service via its own button, albeit only with magnums of Barbera, dispensed by suave sentinels of Darroze’s domain. It met La Marguerite Cahors 2014, a nod to Darroze’s roots, still flexing its muscles, before an unexpected encore: Monsanto Il Poggio Chianti Classico Riserva 1998, a time capsule of Tuscan vitality, the label pleasingly retro, the wine anything but faded. The signature baba, anointed at the table with Darroze’s family cask-strength Armagnac from 2005 – “tobacco," purred Renaud-Paligot – sank gloriously under its own weight, cushioned by chantilly and kissed by Buddha’s hand. Sometimes dubbed “d’Yquem junior”, the thick, saffron-scented Château de Fargues 2008 flanked it with aristocratic ease. Honourable mention: Yorkshire rhubarb, brightened with pink pepper, Tahitian vanilla, and champagne, served alongside a raspberry kombucha. “If rhubarb can grow in the dark, so can I,” mused Benjamin Yip, contemplating the long shadows of winter...

Final sip

As the last drop of Armagnac sinks into the baba like an old duke into his mistress’s four-poster, and the bill lands with the force of a small inheritance dispute, it’s clear: The Connaught doesn’t serve lunch, it performs it. It is a restaurant for those who consider money a vulgar distraction, and for the rest of us, a place to marvel at what life looks like when it has been hand-fed by an army of perfectionists.

Best for

Five wine pairing options, including a deep dive into Champagne
Poised front of house led by Mirko Benzo
Chef’s Table with Rochegaussen frescoed ceiling
Cellar dining, with dishes paired to wine

Value: 89, Size: 99, Range: 98, Originality: 97, Experience: 100; Total: 96.6 Hélène Darroze at The Connaught - Carlos Place, London, W1K 2AL; 020 7499 7070; helenedarroze@the-connaught.co.uk; the-connaught.co.uk

Wine list of the week: Da Terra

Douglas Blyde — Mon, 17 Feb 2025 10:18:33 +0000

Douglas Blyde visits Da Terra in Bethnal Green and digs into how head sommelier Maria Boumpa "curates wine with the precision of an architect". Da Terra opened in January 2019 and wasted no time in earning a Michelin star within eight months and a second by 2021. By 2023, it had climbed to third on the National Restaurant Awards’ Top 100 UK list. Good Food Guide awarded it the coveted “Exceptional” status, highlighting chef-patron Rafael Cagali’s unmistakable presence: “We see his personality in the bold abstract art on the walls, the kitsch Ninja Turtle figures at the pass…and, of course, we see it in his cuisine.” Harden’s praised the “superbly inventive” dishes, while TripAdvisor’s Lloyd Stevens summed up its ambition: “Rafael, Charlie [Lee] and the team have continually been pushing forward in the pursuit of absolute perfection.”

Design

One tube stop from Liverpool Street, the flagship restaurant of Town Hall, realised by Singaporean hotelier, Loh Lik Peng, has a well-travelled history. Once Nuno Mendes’ Viajante, then The Typing Room under Lee Westcott, its interiors have been reimagined under Cagali and Lee, with a refined entrance scented by a Brazilian Bossa candle, a borderless open kitchen, and newly textured dining room walls. The bar, now more inviting with its central counter dismantled, houses aged Cachaças and a playlist including Gilsons’ “Vento Alecrim,” while “All Right Now” (Free) plays in the restaurant. Below, Na Mesa offers private dining for ten at a single wooden wedge, hidden in one of the hotel’s suites. For a more relaxed, sharing-plate experience, Restaurant Elis awaits on the first floor.

Drinks

Head sommelier, Maria Boumpa oversees a list both daring and precise, seamlessly blending discovery with erudition. By-the-glass options range from Tio Pepe, Fino En Rama 2022 (£12/100ml) to Château d’Yquem 2014 (£120/125ml), with intriguing stops like skin-contact NV La Macération Du Soula No22 (£17) and 2022 Suertes del Marqués Edición 1 Listán Blanco from Tenerife (£34), one of nine Keeling Andrew & Co. producers here. The distributor was described by another operator as “good at making their agencies seem exclusive and trendy.” Other highlights include the iconic 2008 Solaia (£100) and 2013 Rare Champagne (£45). Indeed, Boumpa’s love for Champagne is evident, with over 20 producers featured, disgorgement dates thoughtfully noted. The list spans Mouzon Leroux, L’Atavique, Extra Brut (£105) to 2004 Dom Pérignon P2 (£945). A quartet of English names supplements these, including Hundred Hills’ 2019 Hillside No. 3 (£115), subject to three “tries”, and Hoffmann & Rathbone Blanc de Blancs 2012 (£135), aged 60 months on lees, its name fit for a detective agency. Other wines range from the brisk 2020 Txomin Etxaniz, Getariako Txakolina (£49) to rarefied 2019 Prieuré Roch Le Clos Goillotte (£3,115). Collections include Domaine Zind Humbrecht and Didier Dagueneau, alongside a budding series from Hokkaido hilltop, Domaine Takahiko Soga, Nana-Tsu-Mori - generously priced below retail. Boumpa’s Greek roots appear in 18 carefully chosen wines, including mature 2014 Assyrtiko Economou (£115). Mark Andrew MW calls its maker, Giannis Economou, “an enigmatic vigneron producing some of Greece’s most profound wines.” The sweet selection holds treasures from a half of Château d’Arlay Vin de Paille 1998 (£195) to Fukuju Yuzu sake (£15) by the glass - though caution is advised when pronouncing it. Boumpa works alongside long-serving general manager, Charlie Lee, who, like Cagali, is a Westminster Kingsway College graduate who also worked with him at Fat Duck, and wine-savvy assistant manager, Elliot Ashton Konig, formerly of The Fordwich Arms.

Dishes

Born in São Paulo, with Italian heritage evident in his cooking, Rafael Cagali honed his craft at Villa Feltrinelli on Lake Garda, in Quique Dacosta’s modern Spanish temple, Martín Berasategui’s precision labs, and Heston Blumenthal’s mad-scientist playground. He helped open Simon Rogan’s Fera at Claridge’s (RIP) and Aulis before staking his claim here in Bethnal Green. A serenade of canapés begins in the bar. Fever-bright, a Carabinero prawn is reduced to its richest parts – head and shell worked into butter, gleaming atop what a culinary lecturer called a cassava “hash brown”, lifted by tomato emulsion. A cep mushroom, shaved paper-thin, hides Parmesan, truffle, and Madeira jelly aged so long it practically has wisdom. It arrives as a bonsai-like tableau, proving food can be sculpture. To drink, the rich, perpetual Mouzon Leroux, L’Atavique. In the dining room, Moqueca, the Brazilian seafood stew, is a standout, arriving with an essay and map – though under Cagali’s care, it needs no justification. Presented in a copper pot rather than the humble clay vessel of home, it has had an expensive education. Manteiguinha beans and peppers add depth to the extra-fatty Brazilian coconut broth spooned over preserved Cornish turbot. Toasted cassava flour brings nuttiness, while innocently tiny Cumari chillies threaten to detonate on the palate. The wine, 2022 Suertes del Marqués Edición 1, carries a vanilla-licked quality which only emerges when matched with the dish’s tropical warmth. A Spanish-reared Black Angus sirloin, aged 30 days, is another hit, bathed in deep, glossy beef stock, paired with Hen of the Woods mushroom and barrel-aged Aquarello rice studded with lobster - something beyond surf and turf. Boumpa pours from a magnum of John Duval Wines Eligo 2017, a joyous Syrah from a former Penfolds winemaker. “An intense wine for an intense dish,” she notes, correctly. The pastry team excels. Bread is an event – a domed wholemeal sourdough, pre-cut from below to make tearing inevitable. It comes with roasted, whipped bone marrow, bold, house-cured coppa, and pink peppercorn butter. The Tuscan olive oil is emulsified into spreadability, an unexpected luxury. The pairing, Rathfinny Mini Cuvée 2021, a Sussex sparkling wine in a 50cl bottle, offers fruit over acidity, adding exuberant richness. For the cheese course, Brazil’s “Romeo & Juliette” appears as a puck of blended British goat’s cheeses, capped with guava and fennel pollen, paired with a double magnum of 1987 Bual from Cossart-Gordon - deep caramel, rancio, and incessantly complex. It is, without doubt, the meal’s most congruous pairing. Dessert begins with a Cachaça Baba, pistachio, and N25 Reserve caviar, the latter seasoned to Da Terra’s exacting standards. It opens a journey through cachaça: first, Weber Haus Liqueur Cachaça Amburana, an organic iteration with hazelnut warmth; later, in the bar, Weber Haus Premium 21-Year-Old Diamant Cachaça, aged six years in French oak and 15 in Brazilian balsam wood, lingering for hours. There was a stumble. The Hamachi underwhelms, the fish struggling to hold interest. The accompaniments - salted daikon, burnt chive, nashi pear, and yuzu - fight valiantly to bring excitement, but even Boumpa’s choice of PURE from Volcanic Slope Vineyards, bright, rich, and nervy, cannot quite rescue it. Not every part of the Essex quail, deconstructed into small, mostly exquisite gestures, works either. The breast, skewered, glistens. The leg, folded into fine tortellini, striped like Genoese banding, floats in delicate carcass consommé. But the liver parfait, slathered onto brioche, is unnervingly powerful, perched on a transparent bowl of real feathers – a nod to the bird’s recent demise. It won’t be for everyone, even with its truffle crown. The pairing, Idda Rosso 2019, Sicilian and volcanic, with Barolo’s depth and Etna’s lift, is however eloquent.

Last sip

Boumpa, whose philosophy forbids grape repetition, curates wine with the precision of an architect – structured, intuitive, and woven seamlessly into the meal’s design. Each pairing is a cornerstone, reinforcing the experience rather than merely supporting it. There is a case for Boumpa, like Cagali, to sign the menus. As the Brazilian proverb goes, “De grão em grão, a galinha enche o papo.” – Little by little, the hen fills its belly. At Da Terra, every detail accumulates, crafting a dining experience which resonates long after the meal ends.

Best for

Array of Cachaça
Home-cured meats
Calibrated open-kitchen

Value: 93, Size: 95, Range: 95, Originality: 96, Experience: 98; Total: 95.4 Da Terra - 8 Patriot Square, London, E2 9NF; 020 7062 2052; daterra.co.uk

What to drink at Trullo

Louis Thomas — Mon, 10 Feb 2025 08:14:30 +0000

Trullo in Islington promises a marriage of Italian recipes with British ingredients. Louis Thomas finds out how this philosophy also manifests itself in the wine list from buyer Will Amherst. Opened in 2010 on St Paul's Road, Trullo arguably pioneered the art of serving Italian-inspired simplicity to Londoners before it was cool. In 2023 the restaurant would open a wine bar next door, but this has not come at the expensive of the main restaurant's wine offering.

Own label

One new inclusion to Trullo's by-the-glass selection is a 2023 Gavi di Gavi (£10). "The own label Gavi di Gavi is our second own label wine, we started by bottling our own label Chianti with Poggiotondo and Liberty Wines just before Christmas 2023, and got it to table in the early part of the last year," explains Amherst. "The second part of the project was getting a white onto the table, which we bottled with Alliance Wine and Produttori del Gavi, and that went over the line in September, so we managed to match it up wrongly with what people would be drinking seasonally!" "We had quite a few options for both wines. We are linked to both producers through our connections with certain suppliers, and we wanted to work with people who a) we liked personally, and b) had some experience bottling own label wines. We settled on it being a Gavi di Gavi before we got to that stage, because the Gavi it came to replace on our list was our bestselling wine. Gavi is an easy wine choice – it shares something with Albariño for me, maybe not the ageing potential, but it is a great crisp seafood wine," he adds. Indeed, placed alongside an antipasto of Cornish monkfish carpaccio with blood orange & fennel, or a primo of tagliarini with shaved violetta artichoke & bottarga, the slightly saline and pleasingly zippy Gavi di Gavi is an appropriate match.

Alternative options

While Chianti and Gavi di Gavi are classic crowdpleasers, there are some slightly more off piste offerings in the by-the-glass selection. One of these is the 2019 Celementi Valpolicella Superiore (£12), which the list notes is served chilled, perhaps to preempt customer complaints about their glass of rosso being colder than they expected. "We've always served the Recenti Valpolicella chilled since it went on," says Amherst. "It came off for a little bit over Christmas, but was still available by-the-bottle, chilled. I think we drink red wine a bit too warm. Cellar temperature doesn't mean room temperature. We serve the Valpolicella at 11°C in order to get the best out of what is a light red wine. Having a bright cherry, red-fruited wine chilled is great for tables who don't know exactly what they want in the summer – it's very versatile, you can have it with most things on the Trullo table, pork, fish...though it might not stand up to pairing with a T-bone." Another wine available by-the-glass which could well cause consternation among staunch wine list traditionalists is the Sant'Agnese Covante Coda di Volpe (£9.50) from the toe of the boot, Calabria, which Amherst describes as a "gateway orange". "We wanted an orange wine that was hopefully interesting and would excite people who haven't tried it before, but wasn't too funky, or too 'orange'. Lots of the northern Italian oranges, of which we have a few on the list, they are bottled in 50cl bottles or smaller by certain producers because they're quite a lot to deal with, especially if you are uninitiated. I didn't want to have an orange wine available by-the-glass which you would only have one glass of!"

Sweet Sicilians

When you are proffered the dessert menu, the 'After dinner' drinks section includes two Sicilian sweet wines, as well as a Recioto della Valpolicella. One of these is the 10-year-old Marsala Riserva from Curatolo Arini (£6.50 for 70ml), a fitting drink for an Anglo-Italian eatery given that it was the British who came to Western Sicily and did what we do best and added extra alcohol to the wine. "I think fortified wines have been done a great disservice," argues Amherst. "They are fantastic with all their nutty, dried fruit aromas you get with oxidative ageing, with a bit of backbone from the fortification process. They are not obvious to most people as they are not obviously sweet, but with a cheese board – at the moment we have gorgonzola dolce, which is very good with the Marsala. It's a huge injustice to see Marsala as something you put in your gravy or cook your chicken in." Though excellent with the cheese, it felt appropriate to match the Marsala with Trullo's ricotta doughnuts, served with a cinnammon custard & Marsala-macerated prunes. If you're ever unsure about a wine pairing, you can't go far wrong by going with whatever was used in the recipe. Amherst, who recently travelled to the wind blasted island of Pantelleria, has the most famous wine from this speck of land located somewhere between Sicily's west coast and Tunisia. "Donnafugata's Ben Ryé Passito di Pantelleria is on the opposite end of the spectrum to the Marsala – it offers everything you want from a really voluptuous, luscious dessert wine." The 2022 vintage is undeniably delicious, with its aromas of marmalade and olives, but one can't help but taste it and dream of what it will taste like in a decade, when the Ben Ryé develops its signature profile of black coffee and capers.

Home grown hits

Although the wine list is, unsurprisingly, centred on Italy, there are a few entries from producers a little closer to home. Hailing from just a short hop across the channel, the sparkling by-the-glass selection includes a NV Brut Reserve Champagne from Charles Heidsieck (£16), which has been on the list since before Amherst joined Trullo three years ago. "Champagne excites people, and given there is something of a Parisian brasserie about Trullo, I think Champagne is quite a nice thing to have," he says. There are also a number of English sparklers from Nyetimber, Roebuck and Langham, an inclusion which Amerst argues makes sense given the restaurant's emphasis on British ingredients: "We're very keen to showcase the English sparkling wine because although we are an Italian restaurant, fresh British produce is at the heart of everything we do, and so I thought it was quite important to echo that on the wine list." One wine to watch for future iterations of the list could come from the perhaps more divisive category of English still wines. "Recently I was introduced to a Chardonnay from Whitewolfe in Kent, by Liberty Wines, which is very good. Climate change is obviously doing terrible things for everyone else, but is doing quite good things for some wine regions, including England. We haven't got round to listing the Whitewolfe yet, but I think there will be a section for English still wine – I think it's worth celebrating."

Where next

Asked which Italian regions he plans to add to Trullo's list in the future, Amherst says: "I'm criminal for not including wines from Sardinia. I have one listing from there at the moment, but I need to get some Cannonau on there because some of those wines are fantastic. Quite a lot gets neglected because of the dominance of Piemonte and Tuscany, but we're not alone in that. I also think the southern regions, such as Campania and Sicily, are overlooked, but we have to consider how much people are willing to spend on them, so I am prepared to put lower mark ups on them. You have to be okay with making a bit less money on them if you really believe in the wines." As for his own dream wine and dish pairing from the current food menu, Amherst still plumps for a Piemontese bottle: "This is hard, because I know the head chef will judge me! I'd go with the pork chop with soft polenta, and wine-wise, Giuseppe Rinaldi Langhe Nebbiolo 2021 (£182), which is horrendously expensive, but absolutely delicious and from a very good year."

Should Australia and NZ wines be marketed together?

Sarah Neish — Mon, 03 Feb 2025 11:38:47 +0000

Last week producers from Australia and New Zealand came together in London for an inaugural joint tasting of their wines. Does combining these two unique regions make sense, or do the risks outweigh the benefits? Sarah Neish reports. On Thursday 30 January, more than 80 wine brands from New Zealand and 150 from Australia joined forces for the first time in a combined tasting at the Royal Horticultural Halls in London. Presenting their wines side-by-side were distributors for some of today's most exciting winemaking locations: Marlborough, Margaret River, Hawke's Bay, the Barossa and many more. There was a palpable buzz in the room with the 750+ registered trade visitors able to glean the current state of play from each of these two big-hitters in one space. Rather than individual producers, the lion's share of exhibitors were UK importers - Hallgarten & Novum, Fells, Berkman Cellars, Enotria & Coe etc. - whose portfolios encompass wines from both Australia and New Zealand.

Matter of efficiency

Chris Stroud, market manager, Europe, for New Zealand Winegrowers, told db that combining the two was "a matter of efficiency for the trade". "We used to run two separate tasting events, which involved twice the costs," he said. "And it's often the same visitors that come to both tastings." Ciara Wong, Metzendorff's brand manager, New World, agreed wholeheartedly. "People's time these days is limited and precious, so it just makes sense. You want to focus on the regionality of both countries, but a joint tasting makes the best use of everyone's time." The event itself was about 18 months in the making, having dipped a toe in the water with combined Australia/New Zealand virtual tastings and masterclasses held during Covid lockdowns. "For us it's not about competition, it's about celebrating both countries' wines," Stroud said. "Of course there are going to be differences between New Zealand and Australian wine, but that's the whole point. We're not the same."

Dying art

Kathryn Cumming, brand manager for Berkman Cellars, suggested that trade shows dedicated to a solo region are becoming "a bit of a dying art." "They're expensive to put on, and importers are investing more and more in holding their own portfolio tastings. Your return on investment is better as you're able to be way more targeted and follow up directly on sales." The opportunity to capture the attention of sommeliers and wine press for two core markets for the price of one is likely to become increasingly appealing. Not only this but according to Hatch Mansfield's brand manager Nikki Wasylowski there's another important benefit of a combined trade tasting. "It allows you to pull in an entirely different audience," she said. In Wasylowski's experience, the stand-alone New Zealand tasing has previously attracted "larger retail buyers like Waitrose" to Hatch's stand, while the annual Australia tasting "brings in more indie, on-trade and fine wine merchants." Consequently, a joint event enables "cross pollination" across these different groups of buyers. And of course buyers for many wine retailers - Majestic, for example - have long had joint sourcing responsibilities across both Australia and New Zealand, so it's not exactly a radical prospect.

Size complex

However, not all believe that marketing Australia and New Zealand's wines together is the right path to go down, with one producer telling db last year that it's akin to "merging The Wallabies with the All Blacks." “I see little appeal in combining New Zealand and Australia for marketing purposes due to their many differences," said Rich Burch, sales and marketing director for Burch Family Wines in Australia, which looks after brands such as Mad Fish and Howard Park. "Being geographically larger than Europe, Australia already boasts numerous diverse yet high-quality wine regions, making the inclusion of New Zealand unnecessary." Tim Pelquest-Hunt, chief winemaker for Orlando, part of Pernod Ricard Winemakers' Australian portfolio, stressed the sheer size of the Antipodes, and why that makes it almost impossible to encapsulate 'Australia and New Zealand' under one roof. "Australia and New Zealand cover a vast area of approximately 8 million square km, separated by about 2,000 km of the Tasman Sea," he told the drinks business during an interview last year. "The distance from Margaret River in Western Australia to Hawke's Bay in New Zealand is comparable to the distance from London to Eastern Kazakhstan." One producer with interests in both Australia and New Zealand is Yalumba. “As a proud family-owned business with wineries in both countries, we are experienced with taking a cross-country portfolio to market," explained Jack Glover, HSFE executive director - marketing and sales. "However, I believe this strategy neglects the need to be individualistic about region, variety, category focus, and consumer segments."

Trade Vs consumer

The vast majority of people that db spoke to for this article agree that while a combined approach might make sense for the trade, it could be a step too far for consumers. “An Antipodean approach to fairs, shows, and tastings may be beneficial from a trade perspective but not the consumer," said James Lindner, co-owner of Aussie producer Langmeil. "Australia alone has 65 diverse winegrowing regions in an area 26% larger than Europe, each with their own individual personalities, styles, and stories to tell. "Would you position France, Italy, and Spain together as one region simply because they're neighbours?” Kathryn Cumming of Berkmann Wine Cellars echoed the need for "really clear communication for consumers." For that reason, she believes, "it's better to keep Australia and New Zealand separate for consumer-facing events, as each country is so nuanced."

'Culturally similar'

Educating the consumer as to the unique soil types, climates and microclimates found in each nation is key to fostering a greater appreciation of their wines. "Aussies and Kiwis often find themselves perceived as culturally similar, sharing commonalities, and can even be mistaken as one entity, but their wine industries tell a different story," said Julian Dyer, COO for the UK, Europe and Americas, Australian Vintage. "The preferences for grape varieties and consumer behaviours within each country highlight the need for differentiation in marketing strategies." Others like Hatch Mansfield's Wasylowski say we shouldn't necessarily rule out joint consumer events altogether, suggesting that we can credit consumers with "a bit more awareness as to not confuse the two." It may well, however, be a moot point as according to Chris Stroud of New Zealand Winegrowers, "we don't have the resources to go out to consumers." And even if those resources were available, differing legislation between Australia and New Zealand means that "we'd never get that far" in terms of collaborating on consumer events.

Creating a new wine region

With wine brands fighting for shelf space in the major multiples, could positioning Australia and New Zealand under one collective 'Australasia' or 'Antipodean' banner be beneficial from a shopper standpoint? "While there may be merit in simplifying wine regions to make them more accessible to newcomers, combining Australia and New Zealand under a single marketing region would risk overshadowing the unique qualities of each country's wines," said Pelquest-Hunt of Pernod Ricard Winemakers. "Introducing a term like 'Wines of Australasia' might dilute the individual identities and distinctive characteristics that both regions offer." "To truly excel in the premium wine market," he added, "both Australian and New Zealand producers should focus on highlighting their unique terroirs and styles. Celebrating these differences will help maintain their appeal in a competitive global market and be central to the journey of premiumisation."

Final note

Marketing New Zealand and Australian wines together has clear advantages, unless they are positioned as a single entity, which risks diluting the extraordinary characteristics of each winemaking country. Marketing bodies must be careful not to confuse consumers with mixed messaging. However, for wine professionals there are considerable boons, not least where time pressures are concerned, and these could translate into greater media coverage for wines from both nations, as well as more New Zealand and Australian wine on UK restaurant lists. "It was always going to be an experiment," Laura Jewell MW, regional general manager, Wine Australia, told db of the joint tasting. "But feedback so far has been positive. Yes, we are competitors in the UK market, but we're not clashing. There's room for everybody." Summing the debate up quite perfectly is Michelle Geber, managing director of Château Tanunda in the Barossa Valley. “While it would be great to present the wines together in tactical campaigns to reach a broader audience, this shouldn't be at the cost of reducing the level of engagement or understanding of the differences between these two wine-producing nations," she said. "Our terroirs are incredibly diverse and complex, resulting in completely different wine styles between the two countries. Showcasing these differences is how we elevate perceptions of wine."

Wine List Confidential: The Avenue at Lainston House

Douglas Blyde — Mon, 03 Feb 2025 09:34:34 +0000

Douglas Blyde visits MasterChef: The Professionals winner Tom Hamblet's Hampshire restaurant, finding "an over-reliance on one supplier" for the wines leading to "predictability" in the list. Lainston House sits amid bucolic bliss which stirs poets and makes dogs wag tails, in a county famed for chalk streams and wildlife-rich damp spots. At its heart is The Avenue, a fine dining establishment named for the lime trees stretching from its windows like arboreal soldiers. TripAdvisor’s Tanya M calls the menu “faultless and inspired,” while MasterChef alumnus, Steve Edwards praises head chef, Tom Hamblet’s rise as “extraordinary". Refurbished by Russell Sage Studio – though cobwebs remain – the dining room includes a proper kitchen table for those who enjoy a voyeuristic touch. Hamblet’s cuisine, rooted in Hampshire’s finest produce, earns applause from Square Meal for its “squeeze them ins” petits fours. So deft is his craft, you half expect the lime trees to bow in gratitude. But does the wine list dazzle or merely mumble in the shadows?

Design

Lainston House is a country pile with a past juicy enough to make a Restoration playwright blush. Commissioned in 1683 by Charles II as a royal palace, its destiny was cut short by the king’s untimely death, leaving behind not a palace but a retreat fit for a mistress - namely Louise de Keroualle. By 1744, the intrigue thickened. Elizabeth Chudleigh, Duchess of Kingston, secretly wed Augustus Hervey in the house’s chapel, only to become the subject of a sensational bigamy trial at Westminster Hall, drawing a crowd of 4,000 curious onlookers. Even the gardens, replete with overgrown sundial, have a flair for drama. The lime avenue - England’s longest - was planted in 1716 by Sir John Evelyn, gunpowder heir and Renaissance polymath. His motto, “explore everything; keep the best,” echoes in the dappled shade of these stately sentinels, which have watched centuries of whispers, seductions, and schemes unfold. Today, Lainston House has traded its scandals for a sense of sophistication. As well as dining at The Avenue, guests can wander the storied lime avenue, perfect a soufflé at the Season Cookery School, or indulge in wood-fired fare at The Wellhouse. There’s a helipad for those who like their entrances as grand as their exits.

Drinks

Overseen by Riesling devotee Alberto Almeida, the drinks programme promises vintage tales, but delivers mixed results. Born in the Douro, Almeida learned young that wine isn’t made but willed into existence. From Portugal’s vineyards to Neuilly’s Burgundies, his journey led him to Lainston. By the glass, the sparkle dims. Ridgeview Bloomsbury NV (£16.50) and Taittinger Reserve Brut (£18.50), served in muffling flutes thick enough to withstand war, are supermarket staples, uninspired when the local Waitrose stocks both. Improvement comes with Stellenrust’s 2019 Barrel Fermented Chenin Blanc (£18.75), its richness almost justifying the price, though cheaper at The Plough over the field, and Tignanello 2019 (£72.50), a glossy showstopper. Yet quirks abound. Typos like “Malrborough” [sic] and “Pinot Meunière” [sic] feel amateur, while innuendo-rich descriptions – “plenty of length” – add unintentional comedy. An over-reliance on one supplier leaves little variety; assistant sommeliers, seemingly scripted, push Ridgeview relentlessly. This wine is unavoidable – from the towering reception displays to the halibut sauces, it’s been decreed essential, saturating the entire hotel collection like an overplayed chart hit no one dares to skip. One almost expects it to appear at turndown, nestled beside the pillow with a knowing wink, or emblazoned across staff uniforms in sequined script, with sommeliers performing interpretive tasting notes in the library. Amid the predictability, treasures gleam: Guado al Tasso 2017 (£299) and Springfield Estate’s The Work of Time 2015 (£88). Yet these are overshadowed by uninspired staples. Despite Almeida’s roots, just six Portuguese wines appear – a missed chance to weave his story into the list. Dow’s Quinta do Bomfim Vintage Port (£12 per 50ml) and Alto Touriga Nacional from a former football club CEO (£126.50) intrigue, but a disclaimer warning, “It is not possibles to guarantee continuity of all wines or port vintages,” kills confidence. This list hints at brilliance but, like an over-eager wine, needs patience, polish, and a little personality to match Hamblet’s creations.

Dishes

At the stoves of The Avenue, Tom Hamblet, a culinary wunderkind and 2023’s MasterChef: The Professionals victor, commands attention. Hamblet sharpened his knives at Camellia, a South Lodge residency, before turning his talents to The Avenue, where Hampshire’s edible riches, plucked from the hotel’s own kitchen garden and Evogro fridge, take centre stage. A Horsham native with chef-parents as progenitors, he began his career at 14, sweating it out alongside his father at South Lodge, before ascending to Latymer and Interlude. As if that weren’t enough, he’s also imparting his knowledge at the on-site Season Cookery School. Dinner began not in a staid dining room but at the kitchen table - a ringside seat to the tri-partite pass, hemmed in by the historic building’s brickish borders. A playlist of endearingly random bangers (Chesney Hawkes rubbing shoulders with The Doors) accompanied snacks designed to disarm. Duck croustades, sharpened with Sherry vinegar, flirted with truffled Comté and Gruyère gougères. Then, fennel pollen laminated brioche with butter inspired by Baked Alaska, its piment d’Esplette dusted golden twirls hiding a garden herb core - a butter which, frankly, deserved a standing ovation. Hamblet’s take on wood pigeon on toast was less a dish, more an aria: breast meat like velvet, leg-led mousse rich as Croesus, and crisp toast backed by Madeira sauce as deep as Proust. Potent Medjool dates and cool celeriac added poise, but Almeida’s wine choice – Dinastia Vivanco’s 2017 Rioja Riserva – strutted in, all alcoholic ego and elbows, drowning the plate’s nuances, its boldness misplaced. An intermediate course of Portland crab, a gentle interplay of curried carrot, fennel, and a crab bisque Américaine kissed with yuzu, proved a triumph. The dish’s various incarnations of carrot and crab - soft beignets, white meat lightened with crème fraîche, and the zest of lemon - found their soulmate in Balfour’s Cinque Ports 2019, a still white from Kent. Champagne’s lesser-known grape varieties – Arbanne, Petit Meslier – added intrigue without upstaging the plate. Now this was a partnership! Venison loin arrived, having never seen a water bath, blushing, with a beetroot-coated foie sphere masquerading as a tomato, a caramelised onion playing coy, and a duck liver sauce bringing the festive cheer. Combined, the components sang; apart, they argued. Almeida’s Burgundy – Vincent Morey’s 2022 Santenay Les Hates – brought orange whispers to the gamey, sanguine meat, rounding off a deeply satisfying main. Cheese offered a moment to pause and savour. Bungay-born Baron Bigod – oozing, unpasteurised – was accompanied by Dow’s 2013 port. This, the sommelier’s lone nod to his Portuguese heritage, was regrettably shackled in a joyless “ISO” glass, as if its potential might otherwise escape unchecked. Then came Muscat Beaumes de Venise from Perrin – a wine Douglas Adams might have dismissed as “mostly harmless”. It tiptoed into obscurity. Thankfully, Hamblet’s pre-dessert ice creams saved the day. Kaffir lime, in its dazzling debut, sparred brilliantly with buttermilk, while mango, dried verbena, and rapeseed brought their own alchemy. A fleeting reminder that Hamblet doesn’t do ordinary. Dessert proper ensued with chocolate and coffee mousse, cocoa nibs, Pedro Ximénez, and coffee-soaked sponge. Domaine Lafarge’s 2021 Maury joined in - a capable wingman, though hardly a headliner. A chocolate tuille, resembling some cosmic body from a science poster, added flair, but one caveat loomed: bananas. If you don’t love them, this dessert doesn’t love you. Your reviewer, loathing then, determinedly adhered to the advice of the disgraced Gregg Wallace – “Get your pudding spoon out and man up”. The final flourish? A pâte de fruits, which, for once, justified its existence. Ginger and apple snapped and zinged with a clarity which sliced through the sugar haze.

Last word

Hamblet dazzles, no question, but The Avenue itself needs an edit. The wine programme, while occasionally inspired, remains tentative, like a script searching for its cadence. The house – charming in a dusty, frayed way – requires modernisation and a very deep clean to catch up with its culinary star, whose trajectory, one suspects, will outpace the property’s ambitions. For now, Hamblet’s brilliance is the reason to come. The rest? Well, it’ll have to catch up.

Best for

Chef’s table
The grounds
English wines

Value: 92, Size: 90, Range: 90, Originality: 91, Experience: 92; Total: 91 The Avenue at Lainston House – Woodman Ln, Sparsholt, Winchester SO21 2LT; 01962 776 088; exclusive.co.uk

Six London pubs for the Six Nations

Louis Thomas — Wed, 29 Jan 2025 09:09:29 +0000

With this Friday marking the start of the 2025 Guinness Men's Six Nations, db rounds up of some of the best pubs in London to go and watch the rugby at. According to data from hospitality tech provider Zonal, bookings in pubs and bars for match times this Six Nations are already 38% above the same period last year. With that in mind, here are six London pubs showing the rugger which might be worth booking...

One Over The Ait

One of the pub partners of London Irish, this Brentford boozer is an old Victorian warehouse that is now operated by Fuller's as a rather big pub. Although its relatively proximity to the Fuller's Griffin Brewery probably doesn't enhance the quality of the pints being poured, it can't hurt them either. For more information, click here.

The Shack 68

While not exactly the best-known pub near Twickenham Stadium, that honour must surely go to The Cabbage Patch, The Shack 68 has a strong link to rugby union, having been founded by ex-Harlequins and ex-England player Ugo Monye. The pub's Instagram bio reads: "We aren't the most famous, but we are the best fun" – and that attitude, combined with a crowd-pleasing menu of nachos, burgers and wings, make it well worth the visit. For more information, click here.

The Admiral Nelson

England expects every man to do his duty, and some England fans are expecting the country to win its first Six Nations title since 2020. Also near Twickers, The Admiral Nelson will be showing all of the games, and has the added advantage of serving Thai food – khao soi chicken can make up for whatever disaster you see on the pitch. For more information, click here.

The Sheephaven Bay

Ireland emerged as the tournament's winner last year, and the year before, and the Wolfhounds will be hoping to make it a treble this year too. There is no shortage of Irish pubs in London, but The Sheephaven Bay in Camden wins by the sheer number of scarves on its ceiling and the character of its bar. For more information, click here.

The Faltering Fullback

Also Irish leaning, The Faltering Fullback in Finsbury Park has to feature on every London rugby pubs roundup, thanks in a large part to its name. But, clearing away the fog of hype surrounding the pub, it is still one of the hot spots for the Six Nations, provided you're prepared to brave the crowds. For more information, click here.

The Parcel Yard

This pub's location within King's Cross Station is its key asset – if you happen to be watching the match with fans of a rival nation, and your side happens to be losing said match, then it provides a good place to beat a hasty retreat from, just make sure you have a ticket for the correct train. For more information, click here.

Wine List Confidential: Imperial Treasure

Douglas Blyde — Mon, 27 Jan 2025 10:30:34 +0000

Ahead of Lunar New Year, Douglas Blyde visits Imperial Treasure in St James's, finding Peking duck with a texture "closer to pâté than poultry" and a "plush yet predictable" bottle of Burgundy. Imperial Treasure is less a restaurant than an empire, rolling out of Singapore in 2004, dripping with Michelin stars and entitlement. By the time it landed in London’s St James’s in 2019, it promised Peking duck – lacquered, glistening, steeped in ceremony – for the capital’s gilded gourmands. But promises, like crispy duck skin, can shatter under pressure. Jay Rayner’s now-legendary critique skewered the spectacle: “There is so much more to go,” he lamented as the chef laid down his blade mid-carve and fled. “The legs have barely been touched. There’s a ballast of glistening skin and meat around the arse end, and more around its back.” A grim farewell to half a bird which devoured an entire paycheck. Then there’s the live seafood – Gillardeau oysters and Norwegian king crab – priced, as the Good Food Guide quipped, so “severely” they demand a second mortgage. And while Michelin cooed over the palatial former bank setting, not all diners were dazzled. One TripAdvisor reviewer suffered a waiter as relentless as soy glaze, begging for praise: “‘Don’t forget your homework tonight. You remember my name, right?’” Refinement, it seems, comes at a cost to one’s patience.

Design

Studio Liaigre, the creative force behind London’s Hakkasan and Yauatcha, as well as ultra-luxe yachts and fortress-like private homes with 24/7 security, transformed this Grade II-listed Victorian giant on Waterloo Place. With ceilings stretching 20 feet and unyielding orange marble walls which preservation rules forbade altering, the designers embraced the challenges. The result is a moody, opulent warren where dark woods and glowing screens conjure a cinematic collision of In the Mood for Love and a high-stakes Mayfair power lunch. Entryways feature intricate rope details, perhaps inspired by the woven silk of the Syuro tree at the Imperial Palace. A mezzanine houses private dining rooms, perfect for clandestine deal-making or disgracefully lavish Bacchanalian banquets, while the centrepiece is a radiant “Sun” onyx bar. Though the interiors remain remarkably well-preserved, the street-facing windows, cloaked in grime, hint at a less meticulous attention to outward appearances.

Drinks

Formerly of the Shangri-La collection, where he founded the Shangri-La Abu Dhabi Wine Club Group and enjoyed early evening jogs, Thushaj Thulaseedharan now oversees wines and spirits with what he calls “beverage menu engineering.” By the glass, the journey begins patriotically with the Union Jack in the form of Coates & Seely Brut Reserve (£18/125ml); Château Minuty Rosé (£18) flutters in next - a pretty shade, but perfectly forgettable. Coravin offerings, meanwhile, deliver the mineral precision of 2020 Grand Cru Riesling from Alsace’s Domaine Muré - Clos Saint Landelin, Vorbourg (£26), or the still-juicy 2016 Othello from Dominus (£32). Bubbles by the bottle might make lesser wallets gasp. Cristal graces the list twice, with the 2002 Brut (£1,188) and 2008 Rosé (£1,598) arriving like gilded twins. Then there’s 1990 Krug Collection, priced not at £1,990 but £1,988 - an insistent nod to the importance of numerology in Chinese culture, and the infinity of the number “8,” which appears 190 times on Thulaseedharan’s menu as a reminder that fortune favours the thirsty. Curiously, though, “9”, phonetically akin to the Mandarin word for wine (jiu), might carry even greater resonance in this setting. Despite a lofty starting price of £88, the cheapest red is excellent and subject to a modest mark-up: Mas la Mola Vi d’Altura Negre 2021. At the summit lies Pétrus 2015 at £7,788, a top vintage crowned with a perfect score (Wine Enthusiast). It has been seen at more vertigo-inducing prices elsewhere, though the Chinese interpretation of its cost translates to “half-hearted,” an amusing irony given its premium placement. A phalanx of empties stored at the wine dispense suggests it’s more than a museum piece. Other Bordeaux heavyweights include Cheval Blanc 1990 (£3,488), a relic of the recession year which still thrives, though Thulaseedharan might note “3” symbolises separation in Chinese culture - not ideal for banquets - and “4” ominously echoes death. For something less superstitious, there’s the more modestly priced Berliquet 2012 (£188), a pre-Chanel gem. Abutting Berliquet in the Cellar Treasure Collection, Château Canon 2011 (£388) offers a neighbourly nod to Bordeaux’s greats. Burgundy’s Henri Rebourseau Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2016 appears at £888 - triple fortune in liquid form. The holy trinity of Ornellaia, Sassicaia, and Tignanello share space with Sine Qua Non Distenta, Opus One, and the curious oddity of an off-year Essex Pinot Noir, proving that hope springs eternal for fledgling producers. Baijiu enthusiasts may spot a mistranslation of “white wine” to its Kanji equivalent, though for the authentic experience, Kweichow Moutai is listed with an ominous “seasonal price”. The higher the tune, the fewer who can join in. Sweet wines close the show, including 1990 Château d’Yquem (£978) and 2013 Tokaji Aszú, Disznókő (£138 per 50cl). Noting the origins of sake may be traced to mainland China, its enthusiasts will find Dassai 23 Centrifuge (£458), a polished masterpiece proving rice refinement can transcend grapes. For the rarest of the rare, Croizet Cognac dating to 1894, the year of the first Sino-Japanese war, is, at £633 per double, liquid history with a price to match.

Dishes

Wee Boon Goh, once the virtuoso of Hakkasan Hanway Place, now helms the kitchen at Imperial Treasure London. This being our third visit, expectations soared - yet so did perplexities. In eager anticipation of the theatrics and richness of a pre-ordered Peking duck, we asked for restraint from the fryer and for a chance encounter with sea cucumber, an ingredient which dazzled on a prior outing. The latter, requested by the youngest member of our group – a girl who confidently voiced her preference, only to be twice mistaken for a boy – was met, like the former, with refusal by management. The meal opened with a baijiu-based concoction: Moutai Prince, orgeat, orange, and mint combined in what can only be described as a “Baijiu Beach”. Pleasing, yes – but not the sort of sophistication Mayfair demands. Dispensed, incongruously, on Japanese bone china, a flurry of dim sum followed at speed. Snow mountain pork buns, cloyingly sweet and paired with syrupy chilli dip, led the charge. Fried wagyu puffs – their rich cores conjuring the allure of a Uyghur spice market - received their wine pairing as the last bite was being taken: Thulaseedharan’s “recent discovery,” a jasmine-scented mountain Malagousia, Kanakaris 10³, whose flavour disconcertingly mirrored alcoholic mineral water. The promise of an Albariño for comparison alongside what was the cheapest white on the list, went unfulfilled. Cheung fun, featuring the curious downgrade of shredded prawns to filler status, was bulked out with deep-fried flour, robbing the dish of its signature pop and silken elegance. What should have glided effortlessly instead slumped, gummy and graceless. The much-anticipated Peking duck, carved tableside, arrived cooked to well-done monotony, its texture closer to pâté than poultry. The expected five-spice marinade was absent, though the accompanying pancakes, supple and expertly crafted, were a minor redemption. As Thulaseedharan regaled us with anecdotes about Keralan customs officials recoiling at the heady aromatics of his luggage, the duck’s encore appeared: the interesting bits, chopped, battered, deep-fried, and lavishly salted. What should have been a gnawable delight was reincarnated as a sub-par high street takeaway, entombed in unnecessary excess, making it painful to digest over the ensuing days. Château de Chamirey Mercurey 2020, plush yet predictable, drew notes of steeped Chinese medicine when paired with the duck, proving a reasonably competent, if uninspired companion. “Pinot sleeps with anything,” as Jan Konetzki once put it. By the time a precocious San Polo Brunello di Montalcino 2018 was eventually poured for guests who had run dry on more than one occasion, Coravin-delivered into impressively engineered Sophienwald glassware - the meal’s momentum had fizzled. Despite a request for vegetables, we were offered, bizarrely, yet more oily fare in the form of ho fun beef noodles. Meanwhile, left in the hands of the management, not a single Singaporean dish - an odd omission given the restaurant’s origins - graced the table, nor did the chef’s imagination extend even to a humble bowl of rice. Dessert was cubed Osmanthus jelly with wolfberries, a dish Imperial Treasure has trotted out for years, with no prescribed wine pairing. Instead, the cocktail “Bliss” landed - a Konik’s Tail vodka concoction infused with crisped rice, goji honey, and tamarind oil. More a pudding than potable, its tropical vibes felt as out of place in this setting as a mirror ball at a wake.

Final sip

Thulaseedharan, a likeable raconteur with an arsenal of well-worn anecdotes, comes across more as a genial caretaker than a curator of a head-turning wine programme. While pursuing his WSET Diploma, he seems content in the cocoon of coursework, perhaps overlooking London’s vibrant wine scene bustling just beyond his doorstep. Tastings, masterclasses, and the camaraderie of the sommelier community remain untapped reservoirs of inspiration. As the Chinese saying warns: “The frog in the well knows nothing of the ocean” – and this particular frog seems quite at home in his pond. Should he venture beyond the syllabus, he might uncover the alchemy needed to transform Imperial Treasure into a true oenophile’s pilgrimage, elevating the experience from the merely perfunctory to the profoundly memorable. But for now, this is an experience which waddles below its anticipated heights.

Best for

Lehmann and Sophienwald glassware
Sultry setting
Private room

Value: 88, Size: 90, Range: 90, Originality: 88, Experience: 88; Total: 88.8 Imperial Treasure - 9 Waterloo Pl, London SW1Y 4BE; 020 3011 1328; imperialtreasure.com

Yorkshire pub closes after 460 years

Louis Thomas — Mon, 27 Jan 2025 09:52:03 +0000

The Windmill Inn in the North Yorkshire village of Linton has closed after operating as a pub for more than four and a half centuries. Opened in 1564, when Queen Elizabeth I was on the throne, The Windmill Inn, which is owned by Heineken UK's Star Pubs, has had its troubles in recent years. After the closure of the Linton Bridge due to the 2015 Boxing Day floods, the pub's turnover reportedly dropped by 35% as it had become less accessible to its customer base, though the bridge was reopened 18 months later. The Windmill Inn's closure this month has come about because the tenants who took over after a long-serving landlady wished to leave, as the pub's general manager told Leeds Live: "It's come to the end of the contract with the people here, at the moment. They just didn't want to continue." The general manager, whose name was given as Craig, also added that it is proving to be a brutal winter for the pub sector as a whole: "It's just the industry as a whole. I've been doing this for 37 years and have never seen anything like it. I've got three friends who have closed their pubs in the last four weeks. They're staffed all over Yorkshire and they're very successful pubs." It is understood that there is a possibility that the pub could reopen soon if new tenants are found. Star Pubs said in a statement: "The Windmill was leased to an independent operator to run as their own business. Regrettably they have closed the pub and decided to cease trading." "We are working to get it reopened as quickly as possible and are delighted with the level of interest we have had already from experienced operators – it's a gorgeous pub in a lovely village," the statement added. The Linton Residents' Association is also reportedly considering acquiring the pub itself, should it not reopen and become "mothballed".

Formula 1 teams up with Gordon Ramsay

db staff writer — Fri, 24 Jan 2025 10:50:21 +0000

Formula 1 is enhancing its hospitality offering through a new partnership with celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay.

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Ramsay, who is noted for his fondness of fast cars, especially Ferraris, previously turned the F1 Garage at last year's Las Vegas Grand Prix into 'Ramsay's Garage', which had guest chefs doing live cookery demonstrations and a pop-up of his East Asian-inspired Lucky Cat restaurant. After the popularity of that collaboration, Ramsay and his team will be developing a menu based on locally-sourced ingredients at the F1 Garage at the Canadian, British, Italian, United States (Miami, Austin and Las Vegas), Mexico, Qatar and Abu Dhabi Grands Prix. "Our vision is to offer premium F1 hospitality through a unique journey not only on the track, but also at the table, with standards of excellence that reflect the passion and soul of our sport," said F1 CEO and president Stefano Domenicali. "We cannot wait to begin this joint venture entirely dedicated to our guests, which will see them enjoy an unforgettable experience, starting from the Miami Grand Prix [4 May]." "My passion for F1 is well known but it’s the complexity and pace of the cars, and the talent of the many people building and controlling them, that appeals so much," commented Ramsay. "In many ways F1 is like a high performing professional kitchen, so this is the perfect partnership for us and our growing international restaurants group. We’re excited about what we can offer the F1 Garage guests, and we can’t wait to get to the starting line in Miami this May." 2025 looks like it will be a big year for Ramsay, with his 22 Bishopsgate development set to take the famed chef's dining concepts to new heights.

Prices at your local restaurant could soar by 28%

Sarah Neish — Thu, 23 Jan 2025 10:37:43 +0000

UK restaurants are hiking menu prices to cover business costs. But will consumers stomach further rises? According to a new report by global credit ratings business Morningstar DBRS, the UK has seen some of the biggest menu price increases in the world. Data supplied by restaurant.org shows that average prices at major national restaurant chains in the UK increased by an average of 20% between the third quarter of 2023 and the summer of 2024. Such increases have been necessary to counter higher food, energy and wage costs shouldered by businesses, and so far diners have been willing to stump up the extra cash to continue eating out. According to trade association UKHospitality, venues still experienced growth, albeit modest growth of 1%, in the third quarter of 2024. However, prices are expected to climb higher still in 2025.

The only way is up

UKHospitality estimates that its 740 members will need to increase their prices by an additional 8% this year to cover the UK Government's incoming national insurance increase for employers. This could mean a potential total price hike of 28% on restaurant menu items since mid-2023. What does this mean in real terms? If your stone-baked pizza used to cost £14, you could soon be forking out £17.92 for the same dish. Keeping with the Italian theme, if a two-scoop portion of gelato used to cost £6, it might set you back £7.68 this year. Continued menu price hikes are likely to negatively impact footfall. "We expect it to be very challenging for restaurants to implement further meaningful price increases without sacrificing considerable volumes," the report by Morningstar DBRS states. Morningstar's research suggests it will become increasingly difficult for restaurant operators to pass on menu prices "as budget-conscious consumers continue to pare back discretionary spending." Consequently, establishments may need to choose between having bums on seats or fewer covers with higher menu prices.

Camino announces expansion after Ibérica acquisition

Louis Thomas — Wed, 22 Jan 2025 10:23:43 +0000

Camino Group, known for its Spanish bars and restaurants in London, has announced that it will shortly be opening two new sites in Farringdon and Victoria. Camino Group came to the rescue of the two of the sites of upmarket tapas chain Ibérica in December after the latter went into administration. Richard Bigg, co-founder of Camino Group, told db: "Of the five sites they [Ibérica] had that went into administration we chose two we thought would work well for us." Bigg also revealed that Camino Group has recently had its plans for a small Basque pintxo bar in Covent Garden, called Pintxito, approved. "We had not expected to acquire the two other sites, but seeing the opportunity and managing to beat off some competition, we now have a Camino site in Farringdon [89 Turnmill Street], opening this afternoon [22 January], and another in Victoria [Zig Zag Building] opening in the coming weeks, following some refurbishments works," he shared. The Farringdon site, which soft launches today, will be offering a number of site-specific dishes created by executive group chef Nacho del Campo, including Basque-style baked crab and pressed suckling pig. A press release concerning the opening of the new Camino sites also says that they will have more extensive wine lists, including a range of VORS Sherries. According to Bigg, the opening of these two sites will also bring significant administrative advantages. "It will make a significant difference to us and dilute our central office expenses which we had already cut back last summer," Bigg explained. "We will get the resources we need though to ensure the core team are not over-stretched and remain a highly communicative collaborative and efficient team." "Exciting times for us, and a hell of a start to 2025," he added. The new Farringdon and Victoria sites mean that there are now five Camino sites, alongside the group's Bar Rioja, soon-t0-be-opened Pintxito, Big Chill King’s Cross, and its Stratford joint venture Outpost.

What to drink at Oy Bar

Louis Thomas — Wed, 22 Jan 2025 09:09:08 +0000

Oy Bar has now opened its second London location, offering seafood and wine in Wimbledon. db finds outs why the wine list has three price points, and what to pair with oysters that isn't Champagne. Oy Bar previously opened a site in Balham in summer 2024. Asked what prompted the bar to open its second location in Wimbledon last month, owner and director Evgeniy Zukin says that the summer tennis tournament was a big part of the appeal. "Wimbledon is such a vibrant and exciting area, full of energy and character. For me, as someone deeply involved in tennis throughout my life, it’s also a legendary location that holds a special place in my heart. When I discovered an opportunity to open a site there, I didn’t hesitate for a second — it felt like the perfect match." Oy Bar Wimbledon has the same drinks menu as the Balham location, though Zukin shares that the wine list is updated every six months. One notable feature about the wine list at Oy Bar is that bottles are placed into three price brackets: £25 (£8 for a glass), £45 (£12 for a glass) and £65. Zukin explains that this is in order to adhere to the bar's slogan of "simple pleasure of sharing". "Everything we do is centred around convenience and ease for our customers," he explains. "This stratified pricing system reflects that philosophy. I’ve always wanted to try this concept because it gives customers clarity — they know exactly how much they want to spend, making it easier to choose. To create this offering, we curated a tailor-made wine selection for each price category, ensuring it caters to the preferences of wine lovers. We achieved this by stepping away from the traditional pricing model that simply applies a fixed markup to the wine’s cost. Instead, we focused on creating a balanced and approachable wine list that aligns with our customers' expectations and enhances their overall experience." Although there was previously a selection of wines available on tap, Zukin reveals that this offering has been paused due to "low demand", but added that the possibility of bringing it back hasn't been "ruled out". Oysters and Champagne is the textbook combination, and Oy Bar offers a number of expressions of the region, such as the Brut Ambassadeur from Gremillet (£45), though Zukin says that he has "always believed in pairings that go beyond the obvious". "While Champagne is a classic match for oysters, another traditional option is Sauvignon Blanc from Pouilly-Fumé [Domaine de Maltaverne Pouilly-Fumé, L'Ammonite, £45], and surprisingly crisp Portuguese Alvarinho [Vila Nova Alvarinho, £25]. Its minerality and subtle salinity beautifully complement the briny freshness of oysters, creating a harmony that feels like a taste of the sea." As for what to pair with a dish of oysters which have been doused in butter, garlic and herbs, topped with breadcrumbs and then gratinated, Zukin suggests another classic French white. "For oysters Rockefeller, with their rich, creamy, and herbaceous flavours, I’d recommend a slightly fuller-bodied white wine like Chablis [Domaine de la Motte Chablis, £45]. Its roundness and hints of citrus cut through the richness while enhancing the dish's complex flavours. These pairings show how wine can elevate and transform the oyster experience, making it both exciting and memorable." What may perhaps stick out to some is the lack of another classic drinks pairing with oysters – a pint of porter or stout. "We did have Guinness on our menu at one point, but unfortunately, it wasn’t particularly popular with our local customers," reveals Zukin. "Perhaps it’s more of an Irish tradition. Our focus leans more towards a continental approach, where we recommend pairing oysters with wines, which aligns better with our concept and the preferences of our guests." Beyond the oysters, which will likely prove to be the big draw for shellfish-loving Londoners, Zukin points to some of the other offerings: "Our menu may be concise, but every dish might be thoughtfully paired with great wine. One standout is our incredible Scottish salmon, cured by London Smoke and Cure, which pairs beautifully with a French Condrieu [Domaine du Monteillet Les Grandes Chaillées, £65]. For something classic, try our escargot-style snails alongside a Bourgogne Pinot Noir [Vallet Frères Bourgogne Pinot Noir, £45]. And if you're in the mood for something hearty, our beef bourguignon is a perfect match for a bold Primitivo di Manduria [Giravolta Primitivo di Manduria, £45]."

Wine List Confidential: Fantômas

Douglas Blyde — Mon, 20 Jan 2025 11:09:09 +0000

Douglas Blyde visits new Chelsea opening Fantômas, finding "a mix of charm, mischief, and a touch of menace" in some of the drinks, and the restaurant itself. Named after Fantômas, the shape-shifting anti-hero of early twentieth-century French crime fiction, this Chelsea restaurant channels its namesake’s blend of intrigue and audacity. The Guardian, ever poised with a backhanded compliment, dubbed it “delicious but borderline chaotic”, while Restaurant Magazine slyly observed that chef, Chris Denney has a “(not so) secret weapon” in his collaborators, George Bukhov-Weinstein and Ilya Demichev – the powerhouse duo behind London stalwarts, Goodman, Beast, Wild Tavern, and Lita. Hot Dinners, with understatement, quipped: “They always seem to work with interesting chefs.” And then there’s Lexie Hung, a prolific Google reviewer who cut through the fray with one, unfortunately unforgettable phrase: “Simply some heartfelt food burps.” Fantômas, true to its name, is a little dangerous, a little thrilling, and entirely unforgettable.

Design

Once the territory of Byron Burgers, then 28-50 Chelsea, the corner at 300 King’s Road – complete with jaunty turret and ever-watchful weathervane – has been reborn, radiating confidence amidst the flicker of candlelight. Smack opposite the Cadogan Arms, it feels both anchored and blazing, its transformation a nod to Chelsea’s shifting tastes. Centre stage is claimed by a rise-and-fall Josper grill, visible from the open kitchen - a contraption as much about drama as utility. Its crackling embers and occasional fiery flares are a tantalising prelude to the main event: a menu kissed by flame and steeped in the primal poetry of smoke. This is cooking performed in full view of an audience which demands spectacle with supper. The dining room, meanwhile, hums with a bold soundtrack. For those who like their indulgence with a side of privacy, the back dining room – a snug enclave for up to 18 souls - offers the added luxury of an adjoining courtyard. However, access is subject to an absurd tangle of hourly restrictions, likely dictated by the same locals who want to dine here while insisting on micromanaging everyone else’s enjoyment.

Drinks

The wine list for lovers of ABC, from Austria to Bordeaux, Britain, British Columbia, California, and even China, is overseen by Crispen Sugden, his motto, “Get On With It”, and further authored by sommelier, Gergo Feher (formerly of Ekstedt at the Yard) who believes “success is not final, failure is not fatal, it is the courage to continue that counts”. They are assisted by head of wine, Davide Portovenero, who is based at Wild Tavern (previously of Bulgari, London, and Rockpool, Sydney). Together, they have created a list of cutting edge wines interwoven with the odd museum-grade rarity. Wines by the glass open with fizzes from Argentina , Italy, England, and France, with NV Berlucchi, 61 Saten Brut, Franciacorta at £21/125ml. The most economical still pour is the smoke-friendly, Hein Koegelenberg’s Leopard’s Leap Special Edition Pinotage (£10), with the most rarefied being 2013 Vega Sicilia, Unico via Coravin at £150, while a sweet option is Tokaj 2013, Lenkey Pinceszet, Harslevelu (£21). Budget constraints clearly has a part to play in the some listings of sparkling by the bottle, as seen with the poverty-spec Simpsons Estate Chalkland Cuvée Brut at £110; Champagne, as a region, is not so constricted by price however. Topping the line-up is Guillaume Selosse Largiller and 1990 Krug, both at a grand. Still options range from £40 for the 2022 Here and There, Swartland, Grenache Blanc, to £12,000 for a six litre leviathan of 1989 Mouton, via 1995 Penfolds Grange at £1,000, and 2001 Opus One for £100 more. Selections offering relative value include the now rarely seen 2014 Bruna Grimaldi Barolo (£136), as well as another Nebbiolo, albeit from Australia, in the form of 2018 Pizzini, King Valley (£85), to 2014 Domaine de Souch Jurançon Sec, formed from Petit Manseng/Gros Manseng at £99, and the four and a half litre opus of 2004 Torbreck, The Pict Mourvedre (£900). Cocktails mirror their namesake, Fantômas, in their unpredictability and flair. The Capri Cooler might initially seem virtuous – tomato water and peach “wine” giving it a facade of near wholesomeness – but like the master of disguise himself, it hides layers of intrigue, and a punch of tequila. Then there’s the Tsipouro Sour, a concoction which feels entirely random, almost chaotic, yet devilishly clever. With lime sherbet, mint, and aquavit, it captures the spirit of Fantômas – a mix of charm, mischief, and a touch of menace.

Dishes

Billed as a “neighbourhood restaurant with contemporary cooking”, Chris Denney, formerly of 108 Garage, delivered a menu which felt as global as a private jet terminal. Enter Feher, the sommelier with the poise of a Wimbledon champion ready to serve – though his game was less about restraint and more about unleashing, with exuberant generosity, the artillery of his vinous arsenal. This included tastes of flor-aged Sauvignon Blanc, an Australian Riesling crafted by a Mosel maestro, and an amphora-aged Syrah with the depth of black olive tapenade, courtesy of a Kiwi cinematographer. A vinous United Nations, if ever there was one. The wines which truly sang adhered to a singular regional focus, however. The match opened with Henri Giraud Esprit Nature Brut – an organic champagne of softer, fluffier persuasion, its perpetual reserve conveying depth. It partnered with heritage hog belly – scallop-like in texture – alongside pumpkin so seasonal we almost sensed the rustle of fallen leaves underfoot. Mid-meal, Feher returned bearing Giraud’s Coteaux Champenois Rouge Grand Cru 2019, an exquisite, rose-petal-scented Pinot Noir he declared “the Giorgio Armani of wines”. Presented in a tactile Zalto Balance glass, the wine faced off with brazenly fried veal sweetbreads - actually tender within their crisp cocoon, emboldened by bulgogi, and sharpened by the acidic flinch of sour cabbage. Later, its Chardonnay sibling from the same vintage appeared, accurately paired with red mullet with caponata, and a langoustine sauce so complete it could have walked in from The Ritz’s kitchens. Juicy Iberico pork chop followed, on the bone, heightened by lime-laced quince and black radish sauce. To finish, IWA sake, iteration five, bravely served at room temperature – a nod to the collaboration between Richard Geoffroy, its creator, and Denney’s culinary ingenuity. This brown bread-scented, umami-laden compilation met its unlikely match in an espresso savarin with Chantilly cream and kaffir lime.

Last sip

Under Denney’s helm, even the smallest gesture – the placement of a mustard leaf, the pouring of a steaming broth loaded with the latent power of a nuclear warhead – crackles with a frenetic, thrilling energy. Fantômas joins the roster of culinary darlings, including Wild Tavern, which celebrated its fifth anniversary as we dined, and its cheeky neighbour, Wild Corner, where, despite its petite proportions, no fewer than 400 wines flow by the glass. Meanwhile, the irrepressible, Bukhov-Weinstein and Demichev, exhibiting a zest for serial restaurateuring matched only by their ability to churn out hits, had just days before launched Sardinian-inspired Pinna in Mayfair, and Greek-inflected Krokodilos, Kensington. Their ambition appears as boundless as Denney’s audacious disregard for any theoretical cap on flavour.

Best for

New world wines
Private room/courtyard
Food from the fire

Value: 93, Size: 93.5, Range: 97, Originality: 97, Experience: 95; Total: 95.1 Fantômas - 300 Kings Rd, London SW3 5UH; 020 8191 2781; fantomas.co.uk

CAMRA names its Pub of the Year

Louis Thomas — Fri, 17 Jan 2025 00:02:29 +0000

The Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA) has revealed the winner of its 2024 Pub of the Year competition. The four finalists of the competition were revealed in October, having been selected from a list of 17 regional finalists. Now, it has been confirmed that the overall winner was a certain Shropshire watering hole – The Bailey Head in Oswestry. Previously under the ownership of Marston's, The Bailey Head came under the private ownership of couple Duncan Borrowman and Grace Goodlad in 2016. "From small beginnings nine years ago, we have taken everything one step at a time, through Covid, slowly improving to the point where we now have 12 handpulls serving six cask beers and six ciders and perries, plus 16 other draught lines," said Goodlad, as reported in Beer Today. “When we bought the pub nine years ago it was failing and had been listed as an Asset of Community Value by the local CAMRA branch. That listing made it possible for us to save it from potentially becoming housing and turning it into the pub it is today." Indeed, the pub's cider selection garnered it the distinction of CAMRA's 2024 West Midlands Regional Cider Pub of the Year. Among the permanent beers to feature at the pub is Stonehouse Brewery's Station Bitter, brewed in Oswestry. According to The Bailey Head's website, since it reopened in March 2016, it has sold more than 2,500 different cask beers. "Any person should feel happy and comfortable coming in by themselves and enjoying a drink, either on their own or chatting to other customers. We thrive on being the heart of the community and a place where people gather to celebrate or commiserate," added Borrowman. The win marks the first time that the pub has received the national award – 2023 and 2022's competitions were both won by The Tamworth Tap. "The story of the Bailey Head, from humble beginnings, proves that any pub can become the best in the UK with some hard graft," commented Shrewsbury and West Shropshire CAMRA chairman David Ricketts.

More holiday park JD Wetherspoon pubs announced

Louis Thomas — Thu, 16 Jan 2025 09:31:39 +0000

UK holiday park operator Haven has invested £6.7 million into franchising four new JD Wetherspoon pubs. The move comes a year after the pub operator announced that it would open its first on-site location at a UK holiday park, with the arrival of a venue at Haven Primrose Valley Holiday Park in North Yorkshire. When the commercial partnership between Wetherspoons and Haven was announced, it was suggested that The Five Stones, as the Primrose Valley pub is called, would not be the last at a Haven holiday park. Now, four more Haven holiday parks will receive their own Wetherspoons pubs this spring: The Red Rocks at the Devon Cliffs park, The London Stone at Kent Coast, The Humber Stone at Cleethorpes Beach in Lincolnshire, and The Sir Thomas Haggerston at Haggerston Castle in Northumberland. The £6.7m investment in these four new pubs makes up the vast majority of the £8.3m Haven is spending on developing its food and beverage offerings this year. Haven chief executive Simon Palethorpe said that he was "delighted" at the expansion of the partnership with Wetherspoons: "The success of The Five Stones at Primrose Valley reflects our ongoing efforts to grow and enhance our food and beverage partnerships and offerings, and we look forward to bringing this experience to even more locations across the UK for our guests and holiday homeowners to enjoy." According to Haven, some 168,000 draught pints, 25,000 bottles of beer and cider, 200,000 soft drinks and 314,000 main meals were served at The Five Stones last year. Wetherspoons chief executive John Hutson said that was "confident" that the four new pubs would "be welcomed by guests and owners".

Wine List Confidential: Albatross Death Cult

Douglas Blyde — Wed, 15 Jan 2025 08:20:02 +0000

Douglas Blyde visits Birmingham's Albatross Death Cult, delving into how the unusually-named restaurant and its wine list are "both a map and a riddle". “Billed as an ‘experimental’ venture from Alex Claridge and the team behind The Wilderness, the neutral-toned space follows current fashion: no distinction between the fully open kitchen and dining room,” remarked Good Food Guide. The observation hints at a restrained, Scandi-inspired elegance, where décor whispers serenity while the name screams lunacy. Albatross Death Cult – a moniker daring you to take it seriously – hasn’t gone unnoticed. Grace Dent crowned it “No. 1 in the Most Absurd Restaurant Name of 2024”, suggesting it sounded less like a fine seafood purveyor and more like “a patchouli oil-scented support band for My Bloody Valentine or a sinister doomsday sect.” The name hangs in the air, much like its titular bird – oversized, improbable, faintly ridiculous. But the reality is less apocalyptic, more poetic. Michelin’s inspectors, charmed by its “pared-back selection of top-notch seafood,” noted its inspiration: Coleridge’s The Rime of the Ancient Mariner, where the albatross is both blessing and burden. It’s a literary flourish adding gravitas to a name courting ridicule. Then there’s Karen from TripAdvisor, refreshingly unburdened by metaphor: “Loved how the restaurant was hidden off the street… lending it an air of mystery.” For Karen, mystery beats patchouli oil, especially when paired with perfect oysters.

Design

“The planning for Albatross took over a year,” says Alex Claridge, “but everything you experience here came together in intense, feverish days. Think slow, act fast.” The result is a visceral collision of raw industrialism and gastronomic precision. Housed in a Grade II-listed warehouse in Birmingham’s historic Jewellery Quarter, it overlooks a frozen pool pierced by the forlorn head of a submerged traffic cone. Luxury here is stripped to its barest essence, a meditation on stark necessity. The space is brutally honest. Exposed beams and naked surfaces define a room isolating chefs, forcing service staff on longer, winding routes, and wearing its utilitarian heart unapologetically. At its centre lies a gleaming monolith of stainless steel: part stage, part altar, where Claridge’s twelve-dish omakase is performed with mesmerising, unnerving theatricality. Seating just fourteen, it demands intimacy. “You’re forced to get to know one another,” Claridge says with a glint of mischief and challenge. Paying homage to the building’s silverworking past, the counter gleams with hard-edged brilliance, offset by warm brick walls softening the room’s austerity. A projector casts shadowy visuals - more intention than execution, as the technology falters in its avant-garde ambition. Albatross isn’t meant to be comfortable. Great dining, Claridge insists, is not about pampered pleasure - it’s about provocation, a theatre of unease leaving you changed. It is a narrative woven from space, flavour, and collision. The soundtrack is curated chaos: The Style Is Death (Forever Grey) and Pyromania (Vandal Moon) play loudly – the antithesis of soft jazz clichés. It’s a playlist designed to rattle, underscoring that Albatross is not just a meal but an ordeal: luxury stripped, rebuilt, and weaponised into something unforgettable.

Drinks

Formerly of Vinoteca Birmingham (RIP), Dishoom, and Upstairs by Tom Shepherd, drinks director, Camilla Bonnannini arrives at Albatross trailing a comet’s tail of credentials. A Roman by birth, a wannabe perfumier by aspiration, and a mixologist by trial and error, Bonnannini has shape-shifted into a certified sake sommelier and sparkling wine savant. Most recently, she clinched victory at the Gosset Matchmakers competition with a pairing so audacious it bordered on genius: smoked eel caramelised in butter alongside Gosset Grand Blanc de Blancs. Her wine list, nautically inspired and inked on such available surfaces as kitchen shelves, begins with a literary nod: “Instead of the Cross, the Albatross about my neck was hung.” It’s an appropriate opening gambit for a collection promising “wild, unruly & unexplored depths.” And true to form, this is no Champagne-drenched indulgence; Bonnannini gives the bubbles their moment with Blanc de Noirs and Rosé from Huguenot-Tassin, but devotes the real estate to England’s fizzing revolution in Davenport Limney 2018 (£15 per glass), while bottle-seekers can unearth the ancestral Montonega pét-nat, Can Sumoi 2022 from Spain (£65). The still wines are equally democratic. Glasses start at £8 with Loire Sauvignon from Cédric Allion - Touraine Les Grandes Vignes 2022 – under the indeed breezy title, “Sea Breeze”, peaking at a mere £11 for Markovitis Winery Alkemì Xinomavro 2022. Reds are an exercise in restraint, with only eight on the list, including Xabi Sanz’s Sea of Dreams 2020 (£9), a name so fitting given the working title of the restaurant was “Waves”. Bottles are where intrigue deepens. There are two orange offerings: Koshu Gris de Gris 2021 from Château Mercian in Japan’s Yamanashi (£75) and Rob Corbett’s Fifth Season 2023, a Devonian amalgam of Bacchus, Reichensteiner, and Pinot Noir (£68). Meanwhile, adorned with a playful word-search label, the Symington family’s Pequeno Dilema 2021 (£78) dares diners to puzzle over its enigmatic charm. And because Bonnannini cannot resist a nod to her mixologist past, the cocktail list is where her creativity froths over. A Kombu Old Fashioned, and the Sea Truffle Negroni are invitations to drink adventurously - cocktails which taste as if they’ve been dredged from some submerged apothecary of the imagination. Bonnannini’s list, like Albatross itself, is both a map and a riddle, leaving diners just slightly adrift, searching for the next port of call.

Dishes

In the lexicon of culinary extremes, Alex Claridge’s Albatross defies taxonomy. As he puts it, the project exists “without pre-conception, expectation, or regard for convention". True to his word, the kitchen is an explosive paradox: a frenzied barrage of ideas executed with precision. Heading up this culinary insurgency is Piotr Szpak, a Wilderness veteran tempered by a sortie at Aktar Islam’s Opheem, alongside Oliver Grieve, formerly of the triple Michelin-starred L’Enclume. Together, they lead an assault on dining orthodoxy. We embarked on the “five-strong flight”, a liquid pas de deux with dishes which veered between the revelatory and the near-impossible. The opening salvo of snacks set the tone. A Porthilly oyster, stripped of its divisive texture through spherification, was as much a marvel of technique as it was a taste of the sea. This was followed by potato cannelloni, almost too fragile to handle, filled with smoky pike roe and wasabi pesto which tingled with clean, green clarity. A bluefin tuna nigiri - an ingenious trompe-l’œil made from a rice doughnut rolled in tuna oil – delivered a knockout punch of umami under glistening, three-year-aged soy. Not all hit their mark. A three-day-cured mackerel with bronze fennel carried a hint of overconfidence, its flavour tipping over into pungency. The accompanying Limney fizz, however, proved its worth, lifting even the mackerel’s clammier moments. The meal’s highlight - a single Argentinian scarlet prawn - arrived in a broth of its own head juices, miso, and pickled butternut squash. It was poetry in umami, paired with Shozo Moonlight Minama Nigorizake, a hazy sake which transcended its kitsch label. Alas, the barely filtered sensory immersion of the sake was dulled by the cups it was served in, which brought to mind Lilliputian chamber pots, muting the bouquet. Less harmonious was a fruity Konishi Shuzo Hiyabashi Gold sake with Devonshire cock crab, apple, sorrel, and oxalis - a pairing too lush, too sweet. Culinary power roared, too, with mussels in a tempestuous, heavily smoked stock imbued by nine black peppers and “Iberico nduja”. This sauce demanded a fierce, gutsy wine - perhaps even an Amarone - but instead met Sebastien David’s carbonically-macerated L’Hurluberlu. The result? The meek, summery wine vanished under the mussels’ brooding intensity. A reshuffle of courses might have eased the strain. Dessert eschewed the conventional prelude of palate-cleanser, leaping straight into “Sushi Rice Cream”. This was a beguiling balancing act, pairing sushi rice ice cream with candied fronds of nori. Genroku Redux, a barely polished sake with Ovaltine notes, fought valiantly, but it was the botrytised Greywacke Pinot Gris from Marlborough which edged ahead, harmonising, albeit imperfectly, with the final petit fours – a Szechuan/rose riff on a dib-dab.

Last word

Confined to a kitchen equipped with little more than a dehydrator, water bath, a small fryer “out the back,” and a blowtorch, Albatross achieves feats of improbable alchemy. Yet, for all its culinary daring, the wine and sake pairings too often pulled their punches, lacking the audacity which defines the plates. If Albatross is to embody its titular bird – lofty, rebellious, unbound – it must summon a fearless sense of provocation in every pour, every glass. For now, it ascends with ambition, though the wings need sharper edges to truly cut through the sky.

Best for

Seafood
Sake
Soundtrack

Value: 95, Size: 80, Range: 90, Originality: 91, Experience: 95; Total: 90.2 Albatross Death Cult - Newhall Square, Birmingham. B3 1RU; joinus@albatrossdeathcult.co.uk; albatrossdeathcult.co.uk

Tom Kitchin closes Edinburgh restaurant

Louis Thomas — Tue, 14 Jan 2025 09:30:55 +0000

Chef Tom Kitchin has closed Kora, citing "the current economic climate" as the reason why he has scaled back his presence in the Scottish capital.

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A post shared by KORA by Tom Kitchin (@korabytk)

In a statement posted on Instagram, Kitchin said: "We have made the very tough decision to wrap Kora up at the end of this month. Kora by Tom Kitchin has always been a restaurant which we felt really passionate about and we are proud of the great food, service and experiences we have provided to our guests over the past few years." Kitchin and his wife Michaela opened Kora in Edinburgh's Bruntsfield neighbourhood in July 2022. The restaurant was described as a showcase of "a selection of reimagined classics drawing on the best of Scotland’s land and sea". "We have every intention to bring the Kora concept back to Edinburgh one day," the statement continued, "but there is no hiding that the current economic climate contribute to this difficult decision. We have no option but to exercise our lease break clause which is now due." Kitchin's flagship restaurant, The Kitchin, and gastropub The Scran & Scallie, remain in Edinburgh. There is also The Bonnie Badger, a restaurant in the East Lothian restaurant of Gullane. The recent months have proven to be incredibly challenging for the UK's hospitality sector, in spite of hopes that Christmas trading might help to delay closures. Among those to have been forced to close their restaurants already this year is Giorgio Locatelli, whose Locanda Locatelli restaurant in London's West End shut earlier this month after 23 years in business.

Ozempic partly to blame for wine bar closure, says owner

Sarah Neish — Mon, 13 Jan 2025 10:58:56 +0000

The owner of a Dallas wine bar has cited the growing use of weight-loss drug Ozempic as one of the reasons the business has folded. db investigates the link between GLP-1 drugs and alcohol. Dallas bar Trova Wine and Market will close its doors for the final time on 18 January after four and a half years of trading. In an interview with Dallas Morning Post, owner Michelle Bonds said that several factors had contributed to the business becoming financially unfeasible, including the growing popularity of Ozempic. “I do have a lot of patrons who openly talk about the addition of Ozempic to their lives,” Bonds said. “We saw some traction when we marketed our salads as having 30g of protein if you add chicken — as those taking the drug should be consuming high amounts of protein with each meal. But at the same time, we saw a decrease in alcohol consumption and the amount of food ordered per customer.” Bonds added that despite having "the bones of an amazing business", signing on for five additional years "did not feel like the best move".

What is Ozempic?

Ozempic is an injectable medicine designed to treat Type 2 diabetes, but which is increasingly being used among non-diabetics as a weight loss aid. It works by helping the pancreas to produce more insulin, which lowers blood sugar. According to Diabetes UK, Ozempic also slows down how quickly food is digested. Ozempic itself, which should only be issued with a prescription, is a brand name for semaglutide, which belongs to a group of drugs called GLP-1 agonists.

Impact on the drinks trade

Last year db revealed that a report by financial services company Moody's Ratings indicated that by 2023 as many as 30 million Americans could be on a GLP-1 drug such as Ozempic. The report suggested that the growing use of Ozempic could end up impacting the drinks trade, as those taking the drug report experiencing a decreased appetite for both food and alcohol. One person exploring the relationship between Ozempic and alcohol consumption in detail is pharmacologist Elizabet Jerlhag at the University of Gothenburg, Sweden. Jerlhag has for several years been researching how GLP-1 drugs such as Ozempic reduce alcohol consumption in rats. In more than 12 published studies, Jerlhag found that taking the drugs significantly decreased the rats' consumption of alcohol. "We see a reduction by over 50%, which is quite dramatic," she said. Another researcher examining the same topic is Christian Hendershot, a psychologist and addiction researcher at the University of North Carolina, who is leading one of six clinical trials aimed at understanding how GLP-1 drugs may alter people's drinking and smoking habits. "It does seem like there's a pretty strong signal here," he said.

Dopamine nation

The answer to why taking a GLP-1 drug such as Ozempic might lead someone to drink less seems to point towards suppressed dopamine release. Studies using both animals and humans as test subjects have found that GLP-1 drugs reduce the release of dopamine when alcohol is consumed. Dopamine is associated with the brain's reward centre, leading to feelings of pleasure and a desire to repeat a certain behaviour in order to experience those good feelings again. If dopamine is no longer triggered when someone drinks alcohol, there is little or no motivation to take another sip of beer or buy another glass of wine.

Who's taking the most Ozempic?

According to US news platform Axios, Kentucky is the US state that prescribes the most Ozempic (at 21 prescriptions per every 1,000 people). Next up is West Virginia at 18.9 prescriptions dispensed per 1,000 people. The third most prolific state is Alaska (17.5 prescriptions per 1,000 people), followed by Mississippi (16.1) and Louisiana (15.4). Rhode Island had the lowest rate of Ozempic prescriptions (3.7 per 1,000), and Massachusetts had the second lowest (4), followed by Wisconsin (4.3). The above is based on data collected in January 2024 from private insurers including Medicare and Medicaid. A year on, the number of prescriptions is likely to have risen substantially. Furthermore, the above data does not take into consideration the amount of Ozempic that is procured in the US without a prescription, meaning the real number of Ozempic prescriptions handed out per US state is likely to be considerably more.

Can the hospitality industry survive an outdoor heater ban?

Sarah Neish — Fri, 10 Jan 2025 09:15:57 +0000

As Barcelona bans outdoor gas heaters at bars, hotels and restaurants, db investigates the implications for the global on-trade. From 1 January, 2025, gas-powered patio heaters became illegal in Barcelona. The Spanish city has been gradually phasing out the heaters since 2018 after increasing calls from conservation groups, which claim that firing up gas heaters during the winter months emits the same amount of CO2 as a car being driven around the globe three times. Until 30 April, electric heaters with a capacity no greater than 150W/m2 will still be permitted in Barcelona, but after that point a blanket ban will be in place. A similar move to axe patio heaters was kickstarted in Madid around a year ago, but a local court blocked the ban, ruling that there was no proof the heaters contributed to global warming. Scheduled to come into force in Madrid on 1 January, 2024, the heater ban was eventually scrapped following uproar from local businesses who said they would suffer due to the loss of custom, and the loss of usable space. In Madrid alone there are thought to be 3,000 terraces with gas heaters.

Exceptions to the rule

Spain is not the only European nation looking to enforce a ban. France has banned the use of gas patio heaters since 31 March, 2022, with a few key exceptions. For example, the ban does not apply to bars, cafes and restaurants where the terraces are covered and closed on the sides, meaning that heaters may still be used in private courtyards. Heaters are also still permitted inside closed tents, marquees, and in waiting areas for public transport such as in rail stations or airports. With more nations following suit, what might a widespread ban on outdoor gas heaters mean for the global hospitality industry?

Essential resource

Patio heaters have become an essential resource for bars, hotels and restaurants, especially since the UK smoking ban kicked in, consigning smokers to outdoor areas. Dining and drinking establishments fear a loss of footfall, and establishments may be pressured to make up for lost wintertime revenue during the summer months. Trade organisation UKHospitality says that outdoor spaces are key in helping businesses to keep their heads above water. "Hospitality businesses in the UK have invested heavily in their outdoor spaces over recent years, particularly following the trading restrictions put upon the industry during the pandemic," Kate Nicholls, CEO of UKHospitality, tells db. "These investments have been made so that businesses can make the most of their outdoor spaces all-year-round, with outdoor heaters helping to ensure guests are protected from the elements and, in turn, giving businesses maximum space and opportunity to trade and drive revenue. "Over the past few years, we have seen the UK Government incentivise the use of outdoor space and we would like to see that continue. This is particularly relevant in light of ongoing cost pressures, where businesses will be looking to maximise their revenue-driving potential, with outdoor spaces being a big part of that."

End of the winter pop-up

A much-loved annual feature on the hospitality scene is the winter pop-up, often featuring mulled wine and cider and hot buttered rum served amidst a cornucopia of woollen blankets, faux-animal furs and après ski motifs. Part of the fun is sitting outside drinking warm boozy cocktails, but feeling cosy and snug despite the crisp air. It's the time of year when patio heaters really come into their own. If a gas heater ban is rolled out more globally it could spell an end to this seasonal treat. It may also permanently alter Europe's 'café culture' of enjoying a coffee, beer or glass of wine on a terrace. However, heating the outdoors may well be a luxury that the industry can no longer afford, both figuratively in terms of contributing to a warming planet, and literally, as soaring energy bills cripple businesses.

Sausages and Malbec delivered to snowed-in pub punters

Louis Thomas — Fri, 10 Jan 2025 09:12:05 +0000

Patrons left trapped at Britain's highest pub by heavy snowfall have received a care package containing vital supplies, including several bottles of wine. The Tan Hill Inn in Richmond, Yorkshire, claims to be the highest pub in the UK, standing at 528 metres above sea level. However, while the boozer's elevation is certainly a selling point, it does also mean that in the event of extreme weather, it can prove to be perilously isolated. 23 visitors and six members of staff, were snowed-in by blizzards at the weekend. While some guests managed to leave on Tuesday, the staff were only able to return home from the prolonged lock in yesterday (Thursday 9 January). While the pub was well-stocked with food to keep the guests well-fed over the course of their stay at Tan Hill Inn, they did complain about running out of sausages – fortunately, given the sheer number of news reports on what has happened at the pub, their wish was answered. The delivery, organised by budget supermarket chain Aldi and brought by a farmer's snow plough, consisted of de-icer, dog treats, toilet paper, board games, sausages, and bottles of the retailer's Buenas Vides Argentine Malbec (which has a RRP of £6.29 per bottle). A photo of the bags dropped off at the pub also reveals bottles of Freeman's Bay Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc (RRP: £6.99) and a sparkling wine. “Everybody needs a good pork sausage," commented pub manager Nicole Hayes. However, while the weather in the last week has certainly been unusually cold, it is far from unprecedented for visitors to the Tan Hill Inn to find themselves staying for longer than planned due to snowfall. In late 2021, weather conditions left around 60 pub-goers, alongside Oasis-themed tribute band Noasis, stranded in the pub over the course of a weekend.

The Petersham and La Goccia threatened with closure

Louis Thomas — Thu, 09 Jan 2025 09:15:10 +0000

The future of two Covent Garden restaurants hangs in the balance as their owner is embroiled in a dispute over rent.

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A post shared by La Goccia (@lagocciacoventgarden)

The Petersham and La Goccia, situated in Covent Garden's Floral Court, could be forced to close as the restaurants' owners, the Boglione family, argues over rents with landlord Shaftesbury Capital. Petersham UK Limited has reportedly submitted two High Court filings, declaring its intention to appoint administrators from Buchler Phillips in an effort to protect itself from creditors. "The impact of our rent situation cannot be underestimated, and in order for the businesses’ continued viability we need to resolve this as soon as possible, having already made extensive efforts to [have] constructive discussions with the landlord," Lara Boglione told The Financial Times back in November of last year. The difficulties arose for The Petersham and La Goccia in the aftermath of a rent review in April 2023. Although the precise details of how the rent changed at this point have not been disclosed, in FY 2023 Petersham UK Limited posted a loss in excess of £400,000. Both Central London Italian-inspired restaurants were opened in 2018, following on from the success of Petersham Nurseries in Richmond, which opened in 2004. It is understood that Petersham Nurseries is not affected by the rent dispute. The restaurants and the Boglione family have strong ties to Tuscany's Mazzei winemaking dynasty, as Lara Boglione is married to Giovanni Mazzei, of Marchesi Mazzei, which has estates in Chianti Classico, Maremma, and the south of Sicily. The couple also launched wine merchant Petersham Cellar.