Champagne Archives - The Drinks Business

Is this the year of the high-end harvest party?

Sarah Neish — Fri, 21 Mar 2025 10:31:07 +0000

End of harvest celebrations, once intimate affairs reserved for pickers and producers, are turning into multi-million dollar ticketed events. Is this the dawn of the VIP harvest party? Sarah Neish investigates. Magnums, caviar, valet parking...end-of-harvest celebrations have moved on from a glass of mead and a quick dance around the maypole. In May, Chile's Viña VIK will host a lavish harvest festival do, with tickets priced at US$500 per person, and only 200 spots available. And it's not the only one. Luxury harvest parties are becoming the latest extension of fine wine brands offering exclusive tailored experiences, such as those only available through Banfi's Brunello Ambassador Club, for example, or at Symington Family Estates' forthcoming €6million Port townhouse. For VIK, based in the Cachapoal Valley, its harvest party will involve a "four-act" performance involving wine, gastronomy, art and music. Following a guided tour of the vineyards, paying guests will be treated to an outdoor vertical tasting of VIK’s four signature wines, including "magnum-format surprises" and the producer's 2018 vintage, due to launch later this month on La Place de Bordeaux. Lashings of caviar will also be served alongside VIK's La Piu Belle Champagne Millésime 2009, and live jazz and a viticulture-inspired art exhibition are also on the cards, with the celebration wrapping up with a DJ set and open bar. Not one to miss a trick, VIK has revealed that the first 50 people to buy tickets to the event on 3 May will also access a "special pre-sale" with exclusive benefits. Can we expect to see more high-end harvest parties? We asked some of our favourite premium producers around the world about their 2025 harvest plans,

Party like a rockstar

In California, Hourglass Winery's annual celebration The Mabron, named after its flagship cuvée, has "taken on a reputation for being one of the best parties in Napa", according to Sotheby's. The auction house included four VIP tickets to The Mabron last year as part of an exclusive 'Party Like a Rockstar experience', as well as two six-bottle vintage magnum vertical collections of Hourglass Estate Cabernet (2014-2019). This year, tickets to The Mabron are on sale for US$300 a pop, and the fixture has evolved into "a mini festival", owner Jeff Smith tells db. For 2025 guests can expect "exotic food trucks, a massive oyster spread, and a beautiful sampling of Hourglass wines against an array of live musical acts, all staged in the vineyard at the Hourglass Blueline Estate." Although the party takes place in the middle of harvest - 13 September - rather than at the end, "we think of it as our harvest celebration," says Smith. And with bottles of The Mabon wines on retail shelves for around US$85, the ticket price for the event isn't quite as sky-high as it might first appear.

Are tickets worth the cost?

VIK firmly believes so. "The $500 ticket reflects a once-in-a-lifetime event, with an element of exclusivity that we don't usually show to guests," says marketing manager Andrea García. "The event is not just a wine tasting—it's a premium, curated eight-hour-long experience at one of the world’s best wineries, with lots of surprises. Guests should expect the unexpected." There will be plenty to celebrate as already VIK is expecting 2025 wines with "remarkable promise" and "vibrancy and electricity on the palate". The Chilean producer kicked off its 2025 harvest picking Syrah in the first week of March, and expects to finish with Carmenere in the last weeks of April. "We started 14 days earlier compared to last year, under similar climatic conditions to 2023, which was a very good harvest," says García. "We want to celebrate with our guests and thank Mother Earth for it." She adds that the harvest party is also a way to celebrate "all the recognitions and awards we have received during the past year, including Cristián Vallejo being named as one of the drinks business' top 100 winemakers in the Master Winemakers publication." The party in May, which VIK intends to be an annual flagship event, is a chance to show that the producer is "not just a winery but a luxury destination." "The wine world is not just about picking the correct grapes, it's full of experiences," adds García. "There is tremendous work behind our proposal and we hope visitors will experience gastronomy and pairings at a whole new level."

High net worth

While the likes of VIK and Hourglass offer larger events that welcome paying members of the public into the festivities, another approach is to offer personalised harvest experiences for high net worth individuals or couples. "The harvest period is intense with all of our efforts focused on completing harvest, so visits during this time are very limited," says Romain Ott, head winemaker of the organic-certified Château Léoube in Provence. "At the same time we understand that harvest is a time of much excitement when wine-lovers are keen to come and see first-hand what’s happening on the estate. "We do very occasionally, if the conditions are right, offer a limited number of loyal customers the chance to experience picking so they can discover the harvest process and all of the hard work that goes on in the vineyard and winery. But we keep this very limited and exclusive so that the focus remains absolutely on harvest and wine production – our first and most important job." Similarly, Chateau Tanunda, one of the oldest estates in the Barossa Valley, invites guests to "witness our winemaking team in action during harvest" through glass viewing windows. Managing director Michelle Geber describes it as "like dining at a restaurant with an open kitchen, where seeing the craftsmanship first-hand enhances the experience." Tanunda hasn't yet thrown a luxury ticketed bash to celebrate the end of harvest, but Geber isn't ruling it out for future years. "I think it is a terrific idea," she says. "From our perspective, it's so important to invite our customers to be part of the wine journey and experience. The more they can immerse themselves in what we do, the richer their connection to our wines."

More traditional celebrations

Of course there are plenty of traditionally-minded producers who prefer to stick to more intimate harvest dos for workers and their families. "We always organise a big celebration with all our employees and their partners at the end of the harvest, inviting around 150 people to an informal open-air dinner to thank our teams for such a commitment during the harvest period," says Olivier Fayard, CEO of Pernod Ricard's premium rosé brand Sainte Marguerite, which celebrates its 50th harvest this year. He explains he prefers to keep the occasion in-house to provide a forum for exchanging thoughts and ideas. "Harvest is a very important milestone on the annual calendar, marking the end of the vine cycle and the beginning of the wine process," Fayard says. "It’s always a very exciting time as it's when we start to discover the aromatic palette of the year and prepare the blending sessions." For Sainte Marguerite's top-level ‘Marguerite’ rosé (£55), for example, each grape variety (Grenache, Cinsault and Vermentino) are fermented separately before blending. Following Pernod Ricard's majority share acquisition of the rosé brand in 2021, the decision was made to incorporate Sainte Marguerite into the group’s Champagne portfolio alongside brands including Perrier-Jouët and Mumm. Given the traditional company it keeps, it's perhaps unsurprising that Sainte Marguerite would want to follow in the footsteps of generations past who kept harvest celebrations private, prioritising those who put their blood, sweat and tears into the season.

The Cochelet

Fellow bubble maker Champagne Palmer is very much of this ethos. "In the Marne region [known for its production of Pinot Meunier-based Champagnes] we call the end of harvest the Cochelet, and it has always been primarily celebrated at home," says communications and marketing manager Francois Demouy. "We prefer to keep the Cochelet to an intimate circle as this convivial gathering marks the conclusion of a physically demanding, often exhausting harvest season. Keeping things small allows us to experience a genuine moment of sharing between winemakers and the harvest team. It's a time to strengthen bonds and celebrate a key milestone in the life of a Champagne house. By gathering in a warm and familiar setting, we honour the hard work of the harvest while preserving the authenticity and spirit of this cherished tradition." Champagne Palmer does not envision ever turning the Cochelet into a ticketed event, shares Demouy. "Above all, it is a tradition we wish to preserve and pass on. Rooted in the history of Champagne, this celebration remains a precious moment of togetherness, where authenticity and shared values take precedence over publicity or commercialisation," he says. However, in a db exclusive, he adds: "We would consider doing something on a local scale. Why not propose that the city of Reims organise a giant Cochelet? It would be a great way to share this tradition with a wider audience and showcase our customs. If several key players were to get involved, we could create a fantastic celebration that honours our heritage while bringing people together in the spirit of Champagne."

A community affair

Further south, near St Tropez, Léoube too is involving the local community in its harvest celebrations. In addition to offering exclusive picking experiences for top customers, the château throws two important gatherings, one for its workers and one for the local town. "The first is a big lunch with the whole team where we take time to relax, celebrate and enjoy one another’s company after a period of such intense work," explains Romain Ott. "The second celebration is a Harvest Festival which is open to the public. People can visit the estate, and spend the whole day near the beach, discovering artisan food, local produce and enjoying live music and family activities." Ott hints that a more curated experience is on the cards for 2025, saying that Léoube's Harvest Festival "is being reimagined to offer a slightly different experience for our customers" The details are still being finalised but "it will be a memorable day spent enjoying the best of Provence near the beach next to Café Léoube," he says.

Revenue maker

Ticketed events that involve consumers in the harvest are a savvy way for producers to bring cash into the business and continue building their profile. Harvest parties also offer a way for premium wineries to stand out from their competitors, and to thank those in the wider wine ecosystem (growers, buyers, PRs, press etc.) for their role in the annual success of the company. As Château Léoube's Ott puts it: "The end of harvest brings a great sense of achievement and relief as we reach the end of a long journey. Thanking everyone who has been part of this journey, working hard throughout harvest and during the previous year is really important." The drinks business can see this trend evolving to include corporate hospitality experiences, as well as influencers and celebrities grappling to be a part of what until fairly recently has been a closed-off process shrouded in rituals, traditions and ancestral learnings. As wineries are staring down increasingly challenging times (tariffs, declining consumption, climate change and more), anything that brings revenue in should be afforded due consideration. Plus, those who party together....

Ruinart Sommelier Challenge UK date announced

db staff writer — Fri, 21 Mar 2025 08:54:33 +0000

Champagne Ruinart's blind tasting challenge for sommeliers will once again return this year, with the UK edition of the competition taking place on 30 June. A total of 30 sommeliers will sip and swirl in this ninth edition of the UK version of the competition, which started in the US in 2010 and is now held in nine countries. Last year, the competition was won by Emma Denney, the head sommelier of famed Mayfair hotel Claridge’s, and the year before that it was Mateusz Kowalczyk. The challenge requires blind tasting a series of wines, coming up with tasting notes, serving recommendations, food pairing suggestions, and an indication of the possible place of origin. "The Ruinart Sommelier Challenge is a unique moment of exchange with sommeliers, culminating in an immersive experience in Champagne for the winner," said Ruinart's chef de caves Frédéric Panaïotis. The winner will join other winning sommeliers from across the world on a week-long trip to Champagne. After the competition there will also be a lecture delivered by Panaïotis, and the title of this year's is Fostering biodiversity through vitiforestry. The registration link for the competition can be found here, and will be open until 16 May.

A year of change at Champagne Canard-Duchêne

Patrick Schmitt — Thu, 20 Mar 2025 13:20:28 +0000

Champagne Canard-Duchêne has rebranded its prestige cuvée and reduced its bottle weight as the maison unveils a restructured range – and a new cellar master.

The new name for its flagship expression is the Iconic collection, which was previously known as Charles VII, and comprises four wines: Brut Léonie Iconic, Blanc de Noirs Iconic, Blanc de Blancs Iconic and Brut Rosé Iconic. These last three of these Champagnes are now housed in an exclusive, specially shaped bottle that is 13% lighter than the former package. Sitting below this top tier is a base-level range called the Essentiels collection, including Brut, Rosé, Demi-Sec and Réserve,and then the Savoir-Faire range, including P.181 Bio and Millésime 2015. While these two latter tiers are aimed at the off-trade, the Iconic level is geared more towards fine-dining establishments. Launched in 1968 as Charles VII to mark the centenary of Champagne Canard-Duchêne – which was founded by Léonie Duchêne and Victor Canard in 1868 – the top-end cuvée has always been housed in a special bottle with a narrow neck to reduce oxygen ingression and a wide bottom to provide more space for the lees during the pre-disgorgement ageing process in the maison’s cellars. The lighter bottle has retained this shape, and now has a redesigned the label, with a “modern, streamlined look” according to Canard-Duchêne. Meanwhile, in January this year, coinciding with the launch of the rebranding, the house named Cynthia Fossier (pictured below) as cellar master, following the retirement of Laurent Fédou. Fossier, aged 33, has spent five years working alongside Fédou, who has worked at Canard-Duchêne since 2003.

Champagne Boizel launches single vineyard expressions

Patrick Schmitt — Thu, 20 Mar 2025 12:03:00 +0000

Champagne Boizel has launched two new single vineyard, single harvest, single varietal expressions as the maison draws attention to the top sites providing wines for its blends.

Both from the 2019 vintage, the Champagnes are a pure Pinot Noir from a grand cru vineyard in Tours-sur-Marne (pictured above) and a 100% Chardonnay from a premier cru plot in Villers-Marmery (pictured below). Speaking to the drinks business in January about the latest expressions from the masion, CEO Florent Roques-Boizel said that the launches were part of an additional line-up to the Boizel Champagne range, which would continue to focus on blends over time and space. “The best of Champagne is really about a blend, which is why our [presige cuvée] Joyau is a blend of grapes and premier and grand cru vineyards, but we are seeing more demand from Champagne lovers for mono crus, because they want to understand the components,” he told db, While Boizel is launching the concept with two Champagnes from 2019, he said that he will be releasing a set of expressions from every subsequent harvest, highlighting different vineyards, with one to three cuvées in each vintage. “We have made a mono-cru Champagne from every vintage since 2019, but not from the same terroir,” he said, noting that the expressions were priced between Boizel’s vintage (£65) and flagship, Joyau (approx. £110 UK retail). As for the target market for the single-vineyard Champagnes, Florent believes he will recruit customers in the trade among the specialist wine merchants and bars in France, as well as “wherever there is a keen interest in the specifics of Champagne,” while he also hopes the new expressions will find homes among Boizel’s “strong base of private customers in France”. Indeed, Boizel is unusual among major maisons in that its main sales channel in the domestic market is direct-to-consumer, with an online mailing list of regular buyers that amounts to around 20,000 people. Speaking about this aspect to the house, Florent said that it was something his parents developed over many years, mirroring an approach to domestic sales more commonly taken by grower-bottlers in Champagne, as opposed to the maisons. Meanwhile, commenting on last year’s sales performance, Florent said that Boizel had bucked the market trend. While overall Champagne shipments were down just over 9%, Boizel had “a relatively good year; we grew a little bit in this difficult market,” he said. Such a performance relates to “a lot of changes in the last two years at Boizel, with a new identify and the opening of new export markets,” according to Florent. Other positive impacts on the producer’s sales have been “the French direct [to consumer] market, which has been quite good for us”, and, “a big change for us at the end of the year, when we started to work with Majestic as our exclusive importer in the UK.” This move was implemented in October, and helped Boizel “have a good end of the year” in the UK. As for other nations, Florent picked out South Korea, Thialand and Japan as areas of growth for Boizel, while, for this year, he is hopeful for expansion in Italy, having moved its distribution to Allegrini, which he believes will raise Boizel’s profile in high-end restaurants. As a result of such a change in Italy, and the new tie-up with Majestic in the UK, Florent is forecasting further growth for Boizel in 2025. While he acknowledges that there is still “a lot of uncertainty” in the world, he is “optimistic” for the wider global market for Champagne, both due to the fact that the distributors and retailers seemed to have reduced their stock levels, and because prices seem to be stabilising.

Champagne’s 2024 harvest: small but mighty

Eloise Feilden — Thu, 20 Mar 2025 10:48:02 +0000

Ten days of sun in September "saved the harvest" in Champagne in 2024, according to Perrier-Jouët winemaker Séverine Frerson, providing good balance and maturity despite reduced yields. Prior to September, 2024 would have been considered a rainy year in Champagne, confronting winemakers in the region with a series of challenges to overcome. It wasn't until mid-August that the rain began to let up, and in the end, just 10 days of sun in September "saved the harvest", Frerson told db at a vins clairs tasting of the latest vintage last week. "This year, at first it was not easy because it was so complicated, but in the end we are very happy with the results," she said to a group of international journalists visiting the maison to taste the vins clairs of the 2024 harvest. Perrier-Jouët, the Épernay-based maison owned by Pernod Ricard, began picking on 15 September. Frerson said the high quality of grapes was an important positive considering the significantly reduced yields. Yields in the south of Champagne were worst impacted, with a "very very small quantity" of grapes. The north fared slightly better, "but the quantity is very much reduced", Frerson said. Yann Munier, the new cellar master at fellow Pernod Ricard-owned Champagne house Maison Mumm, agreed with Frerson's characterisation of the vintage. “The 2024 harvest turned out to be a wonderful surprise for Maison Mumm, with grapes of extraordinary quality making up for the low quantities," he said.

So what can we expect from the wines?

Frerson said the Champagne harvest reminded her of the famous vintages of the 1990s, offering "good balance, structure and acidity". The percentage of reserve wines used in non-vintage wines will be reduced this year due to the "delicate aromas and precision of the wines", she added. The year 2024 was in direct opposition to the previous harvest in Champagne, which produced wines which were "very open" due to the extreme heat. The "maturity was so high", Frerson said, thanks to temperatures reaching 40°C during picking.

How Duval-Leroy is breaking norms in ‘conservative Champagne’

Patrick Schmitt — Wed, 19 Mar 2025 10:37:20 +0000

“We are trying something new in the conservative world of Champagne,” said Champagne Duval-Leroy president, Julien Duval-Leroy about the maison’s decision to tie-up with a tattoo artist.

He was speaking with db earlier this year about a new partnership concerning a set of late-release vintages from the producer’s cellars, which Duval-Leroy is bringing to the market in a bold package – a gift box featuring designs by Chaim Machlev. Based in Los Angeles, Machlev – who operates under the brand DotsToLines – has made his name through his geometric tattoos, which he will feature on the Champagne house’s ‘Héritage Gift Box’. This collection features three vintages of Duval-Leroy’s Fleur de Champagne: 1988, 1997, and 2002, which will be taken directly from the producer’s cellars following extended period ageing relative to their initial releases. This isn’t the only release for 2025, however, as Duval-Leroy is also launching its prestige cuvée called Femme de Champagne (blanc & rosé) from the 2008 vintage. The producer makes the point that this release is particularly special as it marks the first vintage of Femme de Champagne assembled by Sandrine Logette-Jardin, who is celebrating her twentieth anniversary as Duval-Leroy’s cellar master this year. Speaking to db more generally about the brand, Julien Duval-Leroy said during a meeting in January this year that it was his intention to raise the profile of Champagne Duval-Leroy worldwide, especially the UK. “We are trying to get our message to the public that we are a little jewel of a house,” he told db, adding, “We do well in France, but we need to improve elsewhere, such as the UK.” Continuing he said, “We have more than 15 cuvées, which is a large range, including parcellaire Champagnes – with our grower cap on – to premier and grand cru expressions, and Champagnes from forgotten varieties, like our Petit Meslier.” He also reminded db that Duval-Leroy “was the first Champagne house to create an organic cuvée and the first to have a woman winemaker,” before commenting that his plans for the future were “to be more well-known.”

Champagne Gardet gets ready to celebrate in its 130th year

Michael Huband — Mon, 17 Mar 2025 11:44:33 +0000

Christophe Prieux, owner of Champagne Gardet, guides db through the upcoming events and cuvées marking its 130th anniversary.

How do you think Gardet has grown and changed over its 130 years?

It’s fair to say that the company hasn’t experienced any growth in terms of volume. At the end of the 19th century we produced 1 million bottles, which is still our production today. But it has never been the house’s intention to increase its volume beyond our capacity, to the detriment of quality. On the contrary, Gardet has grown in reputation and quality, thanks to our oenologist and our desire to offer Champagnes that remain fresh while also possessing beautiful aromatic complexity.

What is the house doing to mark this year’s anniversary?

We will be celebrating this milestone with a series of meetings and events at Gardet, with our customers, business partners and wine growers. There won’t be just one anniversary date, but a whole year of festivities. This year will also mark the inauguration of our cellar expansion, which will be completed in the second half of 2025.

What do you hope for the next 130 years of Champagne Gardet?

On the one hand, that our Champagne house gains more and more notoriety, and on the other, that it remains above all a great family adventure, with the transmission to the new generation.

What was the thinking behind the anniversary cuvée?

We wanted it to become a rendezvous in the minds of people who appreciate Champagne Gardet. We had very good feedback on the cuvée created for the house’s 120th anniversary, and we decided, for the 130th anniversary, to use the same elegant black and gold colour scheme, to create a link and continuity with each new decade, and to mark not only this event in 2025, but all the others thereafter. Following the success of the 120th anniversary we celebrated in 2015, we thought the perfect way to mark the occasion today would naturally be to enjoy a 2015 vintage.

What makes the packaging of this cuvée so special?

The design is based on the codes and roots of our house: a delicate decoration and a tangle of golden lines, on a bottle painted a velvety black.

How would you summarise the cuvée?

Tasting this vintage takes us on an exalting sensory journey combining elegance and freshness. Millésime Extra-Brut 2015 is a wine where the Pinot Noir (70%) explodes with fruit and deliciousness, while the Chardonnay (30%) reveals a beautiful minerality and magnificent acidity. Aged in bottle on lees for more than eight years, it surprises with its freshness and minerality, thanks to its extra-brut dosage of 4g/l. Which bottles will you personally be drinking to celebrate this year? The special Champagne Gardet 130th anniversary cuvée, of course.

Has Champagne become too expensive?

Patrick Schmitt — Fri, 14 Mar 2025 10:08:36 +0000

When considering the reasons for the declining demand for Champagne over the past two years, some blame price increases. So has this high-end fizz become too expensive?

That was one among many questions I put to the Champenois during a week-long stay in the region at the start of the year, and the responses were mixed, with some blaming falling sales on price rises, while others claimed it only had a small part to play. The reason for considering this topic now is because it has become apparent that Champagne has lost almost 55 million bottles in global shipments since 2022, meaning that, in the words of Pol Roger president, Laurent d’Harcourt, “In two years, the region has gone back to what it was selling 20 years ago.” He’s referring to the fact that global shipments dropped from 326 million bottles in 2022 to 299m in 2023, and then from 299m to 271m in 2024 – the lowest total since 2001, when the region shipped 263m bottles (that is, if we ignore the anomalous Covid-lockdown driven decline to 245m in 2020). Meanwhile, since Champagne’s recent high-point, when demand soared as Covid-related restrictions eased – and the fizz moved from a position of excess to short-term scarcity – prices of the product have risen markedly: by approximately 25% since 2022. (see table, bottom, for UK retail pricing evolution) This isn’t due to profiteering on the producer’s part, but a result of rising costs – chief among which has been the price of grapes, which are now averaging over €7 per kilogram, with each bottle needing at least 1.2kg of grapes. But it’s not only the raw material that has gone up in price, but energy, wages, dry goods, and interest rates – the latter having a marked effect on the cost of production, as the Champagne hold a lot of stock for ageing – 15 months by law, but for any quality-minded producer, it’s a minimum of two years (and that’s for non-vintage). This means that for those who have to finance stock – which represents the majority of producers – they are paying interest on the cash spent on making the Champagne for some time before they sell it. As a result, your average bottle of Brut NV Champagne has gone up by around €10 in terms of retail price, off-promotion, which is a significant rise in a short space of time – between 2022 and last year. This has meant that Champagne is now routinely over €40 a bottle, or £40 in the UK. “No one wants to talk about prices, but the price of Champagne has gone up 20-25% in three years, and that’s the reason for the decline [in sales],” said Charles Philipponnat of Champagne Philipponnat. Similarly, Sebastien Briend, sales and marketing director at Champagne Jacquart, told db, “Obviously one cannot avoid the [rising] price of Champagne, which is one of the reasons why sales of Champagne are down – the prices are higher, and that meant, for some consumers, they bought less Champagne.” Continuing he recorded, “Brutal price increases have never been good for Champagne.” Similarly, as recorded by our US contributor, Kathleen Willcox, wine retailers in the US are blaming a downturn in Champagne sales on the fact the fizz has got more expensive. “Sales were down last year for a simple reason that some of the big companies just want to ignore, and that is price increases,” says Gary Westby, Champagne buyer for California’s rare and fine wine retailer, K&L Wine Merchants. “With a soft wine market in general, customers are not interested in big price jumps, and that showed through in our sales.” Meanwhile, Ruinart CEO Frédéric Dufour made the point that “It’s difficult to increase your prices unless you are very strong brand”. He also noted that in the French market – which is the region’s largest – “€40 [for a bottle of Brut NV Champagne] is a barrier for a lot of consumers, and the type of consumer who was buying from a good maison at €30-35 is now buying other categories: sparkling and non-sparkling.” As several producers noted, it’s at the cheaper end of the Champagne spectrum where consumers tend to be most price sensitive – and this is also where the largest volumes of Champagne sales are concentrated, by which I mean Brut Non-Vintage labels sold in multiple retailers. Such a point is made by Champagne Gardet owner, Christophe Prieux, who told db, “There was a general decrease in volume last year, and that was mainly due to decreased sales in supermarkets. The price of grapes and everything else has gone up a lot since Covid, and the customer in supermarkets is looking for low prices and very good Christmas offers, and the prices are higher, and the offers are not very good anymore.” It’s also why, as managing director of Champagne De Saint-Gall, Pierre Desanlis records, “Last year there were some big price increases, and because the consumer is used to buying at a certain price, they waited for promotions before buying,” referring to Champagne sales on discount in supermarkets in the UK. Despite the offers, he noted that overall volumes were still down, and that may partly be because the price of Champagne on promotion is still higher than it was on offer pre-Covid. While it is not unusual for Champagne producers to put up prices by 1-2% each year, the issue with the recent increase has been the large and rapid nature of the hike. As Philipponnat stressed, “What we’ve seen for the first time is actual substitution by crémant and even Prosecco, and that is only because of price… you see it here in France, and that’s because a bottle of [Brut NV] Philipponnat was €35 and now it’s €45 – it’s a steep step.” Champagne Duval-Leroy president Julien Duval-Leroy feels similarly about the impact of price on Champagne sales last year. “We knew it was going to be difficult, because the price of grapes has been skyrocketing for the past three years now and we had to put that into the price of the bottle,” he said. Speaking of the trade, he told db that passing on price increases to the likes of brasseries in France was a problem, noting that the aperitif moment is increasingly switching from Champagne to “a glass of rosé, beer, coke or nothing.” Explaining the reason why Champagne is losing its key sales moment in more informal and inexpensive eateries, he said that if a restaurateur was “fighting to keep its clientele with a set menu for €20, they aren’t going to sell a coup of Champagne for €15." While higher-end restaurants are still offering Champagne, Duval-Leroy said that the percentage margins applied to pricier fizz was making it too expensive for all but the very few. On the other hand, he said that should they apply a fixed margin, they can still sell a lot of Champagne, before recording a high rate of sale for fine Champagne in Terre de Craie, a restaurant in Vertus, which applies a reasonable, fixed sum to all the bottles it offers guests. More generally, he suggested that Champagne was at a crossroads. “There are two different views,” he said about the future for the region. “Either Champagne could become like white Burgundy, where there is little volume, but the value of each bottle is high.” Continuing, he said that this would see Champagne come down in size to somewhere between 200m and 250m bottles in terms of annual shipments. However, he added, “But that’s not my vision, which is to return to a Champagne of the past, where we sell 300m bottles or more, and please the consumer that likes to have a drink for the fun of it, not only when it is a very special occasion.” Concluding on his comparison with Burgundy's positioning, and making the point that he's talking about fine village level whites from the Côte d'Or, not more affordable options from the Mâconnais, he said, "It's a pity because I love Puligny- or Chassagne-Montrachet, but I don't drink them any more, because they are too expensive." However, others see the price rises, however severe, as one of many causes of Champagne’s declining in sales, and not the most important. Indeed, chief among the reasons for Champagne's decreasing volumes have been the removal of reasons to celebrate: Champagne was a major beneficiary in the post-Covid period of elation, but war and recession have since destroyed high spirits. Then there’s been uncertainty due to elections, damaging sales in the UK and, especially, the USA. Further driving Champagne shipments down has been a high level of stock in the market, which affected last year in particular. Other negative influences on Champagne sales in 2024 have included falling drinks consumption generally; poor summertime weather in major European markets, such as the UK and France, as well as an increasing outlay on travel, eating into funds once used for treating oneself at home. Cocktails have also been stealing a share of sales in restaurants when it comes to Champagne’s key consumption moment – the apéritif, according to Pol Roger president Laurent d’Harcourt. And Laurent is one of many who draws attention to Champagne’s relative value compared to fine wine, even following price increases – which he and others are at pains to point out, are in line with general inflation. On the latter point, Bollinger MD, Charles-Armand de Belenet stressed that Champagne is not out of line with other goods when it comes to price rises. “A bottle of Champagne has increased by €10 on average compared to three years ago, which is about a 25% increase, which is fully in line with inflation at a global level,” he stated. Continuing, he told db, “And if you compare Champagne with other luxury goods, including those in wines and spirits, then Champagne has been reasonable, there has been no crazy price increase.” Concluding on this topic, he said, “It is not as simple as a price increase driving a consumption decrease,” although he admitted that “the entry level of Champagne is suffering a lot, because that’s where price sensitivity is highest.” As for whether Champagne has become too expensive, Pol Roger’s d’Harcourt told db, “I don’t think that Champagne is expensive,” basing such a view on the price of bottle of Brut NV compared to fine wines from other famous French regions. “A grand cru château in Bordeaux and Champagne were same prices 50-60 years,” he said. In fact, thanks to the archive material at London merchant Berry Brothers & Rudd – which we featured in our 2021 Chamapgne Report – we can see that in 1950, Pol Roger Brut was priced at £1.50 per bottle, making it more expensive than Lafite (£1.10), Yquem (£1.38) and ‘Montrachet’ (£1.38). Today, however, the same retailer is selling Pol Roger Brut Reseve for £54 a bottle, while Château Lafite Rothschold 2018, exclusive of VAT and duty, will set you back around £700, Yquem around £300, again in bond, while its cheapest Montrachet is almost £800. Now, it should be added that Champagne is a much bigger volume business than it was in the 50s, when it was capable of producing 50-70 million bottles from a little under 12,000 hectares (compared to 315-330m today from 34,000ha). So how does Champagne compare volume terms to say white Burgundy today? Well, it’s still more than double the total production of Bourgogne Blanc, which is around 150m bottles annually, with the village level and above whites from the Côte d’Or only a small proportion of that: Meursault, for instance, makes around 2.5m bottles annually, with a starting retail price in the UK of at least £50, and, on Berry Bros & Rudd’s website, £60. Looking ahead, what all the Champenois appear to agree on is the need to have price consistency in 2025, following a year of declining sales – despite extensive price promotion. In other words, almost no-one in the region plans to put up prices now, which will mean eroding margins as production costs are still rising for Champagne producers. This decision, along with what seems like an end to oversupply in the trade (it was overstocked at the start of 2024), are reasons why Champagne is expected to see a turnaround in 2025, or at least, an end to the declines. In other words, brand owners are optimistic, believing that with time, consumers will get used to the new, higher entry-point price of Champagne, as long as there is stability during that period of adjustment (something that is threatened due to the possibility of tariffs on Champagne in the US, and, in the UK, the cost of this October's Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) regulations concerning waste packaging). Certainly a positive outlook is held by head of the UK Champagne Shippers Association, James Simpson MW, who is also MD of Pol Roger Portfolio. Speaking to db in a recent podcast – as he gears up for April's Definitive Champagne Tasting – prices of Champagne have reached a plateau and, even at this new higher level, look affordable next to a bottle of fine Chardonnay from the Côte d'Or. He said, “After two years of significant price inflation, prices are now stable on Champagne, and I think we can put our hand up and say, ‘ok, it's a little more expensive than it was, but it's still a whole lot cheaper than white Burgundy’, and so I think Champagne still offers pretty good value.” As for the initial question, is Champagne too expensive? One should also ask, for who? Because, as Simpson told db, certain retailers (such as The Wine Society and Berry Bros & Rudd), who serve an older and financially secure demographic, had a good year in terms of Champagne sales last year. “Don't be frightened of what I call the grey pound,” he said, referring to “more senior drinkers”, who, he added, “Got used to drinking Champagne during the pandemic" – a habit they haven't ditched now times have changed. In contrast, he notes, Champagne was always too expensive for younger drinkers. Of some concern, however, is the market for those in between. “The problem is those in the mid 30s to the mid 40s, or early 50s, who are struggling with mortgages, school fees and everything else.” Nevertheless, he reminded, “Champagne is a special occasion wine… it’s for weddings, funerals, birthdays,” and we shouldn’t expect people to be drinking it on a regular basis. Indeed, it’s the product’s position as the drink of celebration that gives it such brand strength – particularly compared to its competition in the world of 'other' sparkling wines. As Simpson concludes, “Cremant is a marvellous drink, but you don’t necessarily remember the last time you opened a bottle of cremant, whereas you do remember the last time you opened a bottle of Champagne.”

Price comparison and evolution in UK retail: Champagne and Bordeaux (2000-2021 / 2021-2025)

	2000	2010	2021	2000-2021 price increase	2025	2021-'25 price increase	Vintage (2025)	Retailer
Pol Roger NV	£23.95	£33.95	£44	84%	£54	23%	NV	BBR
Pol Roger Vintage	33.95 ('90)	£49.95 ('99)	£80	136%	£94	18%	2018	BBR
Pol Roger Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill	£70 ('90)	£120 ('98)	£175 ('09)*	150%	£199	14%	2015	BBR
Moët NV	£21.45	£29.95	£38*	77%	£45	18%	NV	Waitrose
Dom Pérignon	£79.95 ('92)	£105 ('99)	£150 ('10)*	88%	£199	33%	2013	Waitrose
Roederer NV	£27.45	£35.95	£45	64%	£59	31%	Collection 245	BBR
Roederer Cristal	£90 ('94)	£210.40 ('00)	£200 ('13)*	122%	£260	30%	2015	BBR
Krug Grande Cuvée	£69.95	£120	£150*	114%	£182	21%	NV	BBR

Château Haut Brion (red)	£119 ('96)	£245 ('96)	£492.88 ('18)	314%	£625	27%	2022	BBR
Château Margaux	£210 ('96)	£630 ('96)	£566.68**	170%	£364	*-36%*	2021	BBR

Source: Berry Brothers & Rudd price lists. Data compiled by Gabriel Stone (2000-21 prices), augmented by Patrick Schmitt with 2025 prices NB Brackets denote vintage offered. * Waitrose Cellar price. ** Liv-ex price with duty & VAT added

Trump’s 200% tariff threat leaves wine world reeling

James Bayley — Thu, 13 Mar 2025 14:29:53 +0000

Donald Trump has revived his taste for tariffs, threatening a 200% levy on EU wines, Champagnes and spirits if Brussels doesn’t back down on its latest tax on American whiskey. Posting on Truth Social — the alt-tech social media platform owned by Trump Media & Technology Group (TMTG) — the President slammed the EU’s “nasty” 50% tariff on whiskey and vowed swift retaliation if it isn’t rescinded: “If this Tariff is not removed immediately, the US will shortly place a 200% Tariff on all WINES, CHAMPAGNES, & ALCOHOLIC PRODUCTS COMING OUT OF FRANCE AND OTHER E.U. REPRESENTED COUNTRIES. This will be great for the Wine and Champagne businesses in the US,” he wrote. Whether it will be quite so great for consumers, importers and transatlantic trade is another matter entirely.

Brussels vs Washington: another round of tit-for-tat

This latest flare-up in US-EU trade tensions stems not from whiskey or wine but from an old grudge over steel and aluminium. The European Commission’s move to reimpose tariffs on American whiskey, set to take effect in April, is part of a broader retaliatory package aimed at rebalancing a long-running metals dispute. Industry groups on both sides of the Atlantic have wasted no time in voicing their frustration. SpiritsEUROPE trade and economic affairs director Pauline Bastidon lamented that “yet again, spirit drinks have become collateral damage in an unrelated trade dispute,” warning that punitive tariffs will damage businesses, cost jobs and disrupt investment. The zero-for-zero tariff agreement that once helped the transatlantic spirits trade balloon by 450% between 1997 and 2018 now hangs in the balance. European wine producers are equally dismayed. The US is the largest export market for EU wines, and Trump’s threatened 200% tariff would be catastrophic for sales of Bordeaux, Barolo and Brut. Industry representatives have urged Brussels to rethink its approach, warning that retaliatory measures will hit small businesses, stall investment and ultimately leave consumers footing the bill.

A familiar hangover

If all of this sounds familiar, that’s because it is. The last time Trump waged a tariff war on European wines, importers and retailers were forced into damage control, absorbing much of the cost themselves rather than passing it on to consumers. The result? Strangled margins, disrupted supply chains and a less competitive market for both US and EU producers. American whiskey distillers, too, know this story all too well. The last round of EU tariffs, introduced in 2018, led to a 41% drop in US whiskey exports to Europe. Meanwhile, the financial markets have already started to react. European shares dipped on Thursday amid trade war concerns, with France’s Cac 40 and Germany’s Dax slipping into negative territory. Drinks giants Pernod Ricard and Rémy Cointreau saw share prices slip, while luxury group LVMH, owner of Moët & Chandon, also suffered losses. Over in New York, the S&P 500 edged down as Wall Street digested the potential fallout.

Who really pays the price?

Trump has never been shy about his views on the EU, once again accusing the bloc of being “one of the most hostile and abusive taxing and tariffing authorities in the world” and claiming it was “formed for the sole purpose of taking advantage of the United States.” Brussels, by contrast, struck a more measured tone. European Commission president Ursula von der Leyen reminded Washington that transatlantic trade “brought prosperity and security to millions of people” and created “millions of jobs on both sides of the Atlantic.” But for those in the wine and spirits world, these words are little comfort. The reality is that trade wars rarely achieve their intended goals. Instead, they raise prices, hurt businesses and damage relationships built over decades. The fundamental absurdity of this situation is that the drinks industry is one of the most globally connected. Producers, distributors and retailers operate across borders in a delicate ecosystem that tariffs serve only to disrupt. History shows that once one side imposes duties, the other retaliates, creating an escalating cycle that benefits no one.

Master Winemaker 100: Julien Lefevre

Michael Huband — Thu, 13 Mar 2025 09:40:09 +0000

The cellar master at Champagne Collery tells db about reading Hemingway, the dangers of trends and his desire to showcase Champagne's "forgotten grapes". A Champenois through and through, Julien Lefevre honed his winemaking craft through a combination of work for Champagne powerhouse Moët & Chandon and a stint as an oenologist for specialist sparkling wine consultancy Oenotechnic. Since joining Aÿ-based Champagne Collery, Lefevre has worked closely with the rest of the team here to define the style of a house, with more than a century of history, that has recently been reborn. “We set no barriers other than high quality,” Lefevre explains. “We wanted to have fun and experiment to produce wines that resemble us.”

What job did you imagine yourself doing when you were seven years old?

I wanted to be an architect.

Who first led you down the winemaking career path, and how?

I discovered winemaking with my father when I was a kid, and harvesting with him.

What’s the most recent lesson this job has taught you?

Patience and tenacity lead to the best results.

If you were a wine, what would your back label say?

It is a thoroughbred wine with a lot of character, showing balance, freshness and depth; an invitation to meditation and social gathering. To be paired with friends.

What’s the last book you read?

Le Vieil Homme Et La Mer (The Old Man And The Sea) by Ernest Hemingway.

What’s the last live music performance you saw?

Calogero, a French-Italian singer.

What frustrates you most about the world of wine?

Critics and scores which deeply influence “trendy styles” sometimes hold me back from exploring a wine’s profile creation or creating beautiful blends that are not “trendy” or written about as “desirable” or “qualitative”.

Which sustainability initiative are you most proud of, and why?

Renewable energy implementation at the winery.

If you could change one thing about your wine region, what would it be?

A circular economy to develop reuse of packaging, including bottles that consume a lot of energy to be produced.

Which winemaker do you most admire, and why?

I admire a lot Champagne Jacquesson. From their long history to their vineyard management, originality in the blending process and winemaking approach, and tremendous sales results, everything lines up perfectly. When tasting the Champagne, it is very clear that every step – ageing, the disgorgement approach – is carefully, doubly thought about.

Which missing skill do you most wish you possessed?

I’d like to be able to understand and speak a language other than French.

What’s your idea of a perfect holiday?

Complete disconnection from the external world to peacefully enjoy nature’s quietness.

What is the most pressing personal or professional ambition you’d like to fulfil?

I’d like to be able to create a cuvée exclusively from some or all of the “forgotten” grapes of Champagne.

What would your final meal be? And what would you drink with it?

Beef rib-eye with Saint-Joseph Le Clos 2011 from Chapoutier. Champagne Collery is exhibiting at ProWein Düsseldorf next week in Hall 10, Stand H10.

The UK’s Definitive Champagne Tasting to feature 60 producers

Patrick Schmitt — Fri, 07 Mar 2025 09:51:43 +0000

The UK’s first major Champagne trade tasting for almost a decade will feature as many as 60 producers and has already attracted 600 sign-ups from retail buyers to press and sommeliers.

Called The Definitive Champagne Tasting, and taking place on 1 April at the Tate Modern in London’s Bankside, the event could already be called a success, but is still encouraging visitors to register their interest. As db was the first to report, the event is the first generic Champagne trade tasting to take place in London since 2018. Organised by the UK’s Champagne Shippers’ Association, which is chaired by James Simpson MW – who is also managing director of Pol Roger Portfolio – the trade tasting will feature non-vintage and vintage self-pour tables and 60 producers, including houses, cooperatives and growers. Simpson promised db that the tasting would be a chance for the UK wine trade to “taste everything in one place.” There are two tasting sessions available to register for by clicking here.

1st session: 10am – 2pm
2nd session: 2pm – 5pm

The Definitive Champagne Tasting

Tuesday 1 April
10am – 5pm
Tate Modern (South Room, Blatavnic Building) Bankside, London SE1 9TG

db exclusive: Annual Champagne trade tasting returns to London

André Drappier dies aged 99

Ned Goddin — Thu, 06 Mar 2025 15:48:56 +0000

André Drappier, the sixth generation to lead Champagne house Drappier, has died at the age of 99.

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Born in 1926, Drappier took over the family business, launching the Carte d'Or cuvée in 1952 with much success, instantly recognisable by its distinctive yellow label. After a devastating frost in 1957 (destroying 95% of the harvest), he introduced Meunier to the vineyards due to its resistance spring frosts. In 1968, alongside his wife, Micheline, Drappier created a Rosé Champagne which was made of 100% Pinot Noir, a novelty at the time. This style of wine achieved much success, with the Champagne Drappier Rosé de Saignée being poured at the Elysée Palace 50 years later. Famously, French President Charles de Gaulle enjoyed a Drappier Pinot Noir vintage in 1965 with his family at Colombey-les-deux-Églises. A favourite of De Gaulle due to its distinctive character, he also served it at La Boisserie, his private residence near Urville in the Aube region of Champagne. The commission for Drappier Champagnes to be served in the homes of Charles de Gaulle came on the recommendation of his aide-de-camp, Colonel de Bonneval, who recognised the wines quality and its vineyards proximity to Urville. Drappier also created the Carte Jaune Brut Sans Année and the special cuvée La Grande Sendrée, the first official vintage being from 1975. The grapes for this special vintage come from plots in the area known as ‘Cendrée’, named after an ancient forest that burnt down in 1836. The ashes of said fire had killed the pests in the area and had enriched the soil, making it a perfect plot to grow grapes. In 1979, André handed the reins of Drappier over to his son Michel, who has since expanded the estate. The Drappier house is now helped by its eighth generation with Charline, Hugo and Antoine Drappier taking active roles in the house's management. Until his death yesterday morning, André stayed close to the vineyards and regularly joined his family for lunch, with 2024 marking his 77th harvest with the house.

Why Duval-Leroy’s 2008 vintage shows ‘meticulous vinification’

Jessica Mason — Tue, 04 Mar 2025 12:13:34 +0000

The release of Champagne house Duval-Leroy’s 2008 vintages is a much anticipated event. db investigates what makes it special. Speaking exclusively to the drinks business about the release, Duval-Leroy’s cellar master Sandrine Logette-Jardin explained: “2008 is widely-regarded as one of the greatest vintages in Champagne’s modern history, offering remarkable balance, freshness, and longevity.” After all, she insisted: “At Duval-Leroy, we have taken the time to let this vintage fully mature, ensuring that it reaches its peak expression. We are among the last houses to release our 2008 vintage, a testament to our dedication to extended cellar ageing and our philosophy of patience.” Ultimately, it is a reflection of the house’s true style. Explaining what makes the release so crucial, Logette-Jardin explained: “2008 was a rare and outstanding year in Champagne. The wines from this vintage display exceptional purity, precision, and aging potential. Our 2008 release stands out because it embodies the unique Duval-Leroy style—elegance, finesse, and complexity—while showcasing the full potential of long maturation. This careful ageing process has enhanced the depth, texture, and aromatic complexity of our Champagnes, making this release truly special.” What sets it apart has a lot to do with its ethos and consistent pursuit for quality. Highlighting this, Logette Jardin revealed: “Duval-Leroy has always been a house of both tradition and innovation. Our uniqueness lies in our commitment to excellence at every stage of winemaking, from sustainable vineyard practices to meticulous vinification.” She pointed out that “as a family-owned house, we have the flexibility to focus on precision and quality over quantity. We uphold the ethos of patience, savoir-faire, and a relentless pursuit of refinement, ensuring that each cuvée tells a story of time, terroir, and craftsmanship.” Offering a look into how this level of quality is achieved, Logette-Jardin told db: “Cellar ageing is at the heart of what makes great Champagne. At Duval-Leroy, we believe in giving our wines the time they need to fully develop. The extended ageing process allows for greater complexity, depth, and harmony. This commitment to tradition is what defines our house, yet we also embrace modern techniques to refine our methods while staying true to our heritage.” Logette-Jardin also admitted that the release is particularly meaningful for her since she is celebrating her 20th anniversary as cheffe de cave this year. As such, the Femme de Champagne 2008 vintage was the very first she crafted from start to finish, and now, after more than 15 years of ageing, she has the opportunity to taste and present this remarkable expression of her expertise and dedication. Giving an insight into what to expect, Logette-Jardin insisted that the 2008 vintage reveals an “extraordinary aromatic intensity” and said “the Blanc de Blancs 2008 presents a stunning minerality with an elegant vinosity, evolving into a long and refined finish”. She added: “The Femme de Champagne 2008 is a masterpiece of balance, offering layers of candied citrus, mandarin and vanilla, with an exceptional persistence on the palate. These Champagnes are crafted for connoisseurs who appreciate depth, elegance, and the magic of time.”

Gérard Basset unveils Laurent-Perrier Champagne Scholarships

Jessica Mason — Tue, 04 Mar 2025 10:34:56 +0000

The Gérard Basset Foundation has teamed up with Champagne Laurent-Perrier to launch the Laurent-Perrier Champagne Scholarships to nurture future talent in the UK wine trade. The two family-led companies revealed they share the shared objective to mentor the next generation of wine professionals. The businesses have also indicated that the new partnership will offer the chance for 10 individuals to undertake the Wine Scholar Guild Champagne Masters course, which is widely understood to be the most up-to-date and comprehensive certification available on the wines of Champagne, taught by experts Peter Liem, Essi Avellan MW, Steve Charters MW and Charles Curtis MW. The scholarship winners will also take part in two days of masterclasses in negotiation and sales at special sessions held in London which will help them develop and refine essential skills for working in both the on- and off-trade. In addition, Laurent-Perrier has said that it will host a tutored tasting session with the winners to fully immerse them in the Champagne category and allow them to improve their tasting techniques. Speaking about the initiative, Gérard Basset Foundation co-founding trustee of and head of operations Romané Basset said: “The Gérard Basset Foundation has one clear mission: to use the wine, spirits and hospitality industries as a vehicle for change, helping to foster, encourage, promote and assist a new generation of talent into the drinks and hospitality industries,” Laurent-Perrier UK MD Adam Guy explained: “Like the Basset family, Laurent-Perrier’s heritage is rooted in the wine industry and together we are proud to support future generations.” The Laurent-Perrier Champagne Scholarships are open to UK-based applicants working in the wine and hospitality industries and all applicants are welcome. As one of the aims of these scholarships is to support and further inclusion and accessibility in the wine industry, candidates will be asked to explain in their own words what winning a scholarship would mean to them and enable them to achieve. The judging panel will be composed of Nina Basset FIH, co-founding trustee and team leader of the Gérard Basset Foundation, Romané Basset, Christian Holthausen, head of communications for the Gérard Basset Foundation, and Preston Mohr, managing director of the Wine Scholar Guild. Applications are officially open as of today and will remain open until 25 April 2025. To apply directly please visit the scholarship's webpage.

Will Champagne see a turnaround in 2025?

Patrick Schmitt — Tue, 04 Mar 2025 08:31:47 +0000

After two years of declining shipments of Champagne, the region’s top producers are hopeful for a turnaround in 2025. We look at the basis for optimism.

As reported by db last week, during the course of the past 24 months, Champagne has seen shipments – including the French market – fall by almost 55 million bottles, taking its year-end total to 271m in 2024, from a high of 326m in 2022. The causes of this decline are myriad, but chief among them has been the removal of reasons to celebrate: Champagne was a major beneficiary in the post-Covid period of elation, but war and recession have since destroyed high spirits. Then there’s been uncertainty due to elections, damaging sales in the UK and, especially, the USA. Driving Champagne shipments down has also been a high level of stock in the market, which affected last year in particular, as well as elevated bottle prices, with all players passing on cost increases to consumers – producing Champagne has become more expensive due to rising grape prices, as well as wages, energy, interest rates and raw materials such as glass. Other negative influences on Champagne sales have included falling drinks consumption generally; poor summertime weather in major European markets, such as the UK and France, as well as an increasing outlay on travel, eating into funds once used for treating oneself at home. Cocktails have also been stealing a share of sales in restaurants when it comes to Champagne's key consumption moment – the apéritif, according to Pol Roger president Laurent d'Harcourt. So why would 2025 be any better for Champagne? That’s the question I put to a raft of major players in the region in late January this year, during a week-long visit to the region, and the responses were fairly consistent: this year should represent a turnaround for Champagne shipments. “It’s a new era,” said Sébastien Briend, managing director at Champagne Jacquart when asked why he believes the decreases of the past two years are behind the region. The major elections are over, and the world and its economies are more stable, he observed, with a hope for more “normal times” in 2025. This is key to Champagne consumption he stressed, because, he said, “We need political stability in the world to have economic stability.” Ruinart CEO Frédéric Dufour is also cautiously optimistic as he sees the recent period of declining orders coming to an end. “We see interesting pockets of growth, such as Japan, and a mid- and long-term bright future in the US, although we are braced for taxes [on Champagne under the Trump administration], which we see as a short-term challenge,” he said. As for Europe, he added, “We still see more opportunities than threats,” although he noted that growth for Champagne will come from international markets – “the French market is eroding structurally,” he observed. Believing that last year’s oversupply situation has now been worked through, Dufour does see shipments this year more closely reflecting consumption, and told db, “I believe the worst is behind us; we can be positive for Champagne”. Nevertheless, he and others don’t envisage Champagne reverting rapidly to its pre-Covid volume size of around 300m bottles. Not only does the consumer still need to digest price increases on Champagne, “but there is no enormous new market in front of us,” he said. For some, South Korea presents a more immediate growth opportunity, but creating a large following for Champagne in huge potential markets such as China and India, as well as South America and Africa, remain a long way off. In terms of the price situation, which has seen many Champagne brands raise on-shelf prices by around 25% over the past three years, Dufour commented, “€40 [for a bottle of Brut NV Champagne] is a barrier for a lot of consumers, and the type of consumer who was buying from a good maison at €30-35 is now buying other categories: sparkling and non-sparkling.” As a result, despite his optimistic outlook, he did say, “I don’t know if the region will come back to 300m easily.” Similarly, Pol Roger's d'Harcourt sees an end to the negative trend this year, but not an increase in shipments. "I hope we can be at the same level this year, but I do not see growth," he said. However, the hope is that the final six months of 2025 will see an improvement in Champagne sales. This is based on a best-case scenario, said David Chatillon, who is president of the Champagne Houses (UMC) and co-president of the Comité Champagne. “While there is still uncertainly, most people think that the second half of the year will be better… perhaps there will be an end to the wars, stocks will have been cleared, and economic growth will be back.” Certainly Champange Boizel CEO Florent Roques-Boizel is positive in his outlook. Not only did he point out that other wine regions have been worse-affected by the recent downturn but he sees Champagne making a recovery and soon. “It has not been a good year for Champagne, but it’s not been dramatic, and I don’t see the desirability of Champagne decreasing, just people being more cautious about what they are spending,” he told db. Continuing he said of Champagne’s drop in shipments, “I think it is temporary, and linked to the general mood, and I think Champagne will come back – we’ve seen this before with cycles in Champagne.” And he plans for growth in 2025, based on fact that “Champagne prices are stabilising” and “the stock situation is now healthy – we hear that from our partners.” Another person in a positive frame of mind is managing director of Champagne Palmer, Rémi Vervier. “I think the lowest point was last year and I think it will be better in 2025,” he said, noting that he expected sales in the US and Japan in particular to pick up, as well as in Scandinavia and the UK. He also said that trends favoured his Champagne in particular, not just because “we are building distribution and brand presence,” but also because his product is relatively affordable. “We stay at an attractive price positioning: our La Reserve is around €40 in France – which is not cheap, but it’s not €50,” he said, referencing pricier rivals. Like Roques-Boizel, stressing the cyclical nature of Champagne sales is Deutz CEO Marc Hoellinger. “Champagne over the past 50 years has been very cyclical – there are highs and lows, and two to three years ago we were at a strong high, and now we are at a strong low; at some stage there will be a rebound,” he said. As for the longterm size of shipments, he says, “It is probably somewhere in between [the historical high and current low]” And like Vervier, he picks up on the issue of price, commenting, “€50 seems to be a psychological limit for Brut NV Champagne, and you see that in the French market, where the brands that are suffering are those over €50.” For Bollinger MD Charles-Armand de Belenet, “We believe this year, in the best-case scenario, that Champagne will go back to 280-290m bottles” – which would represent a growth of 3-7% on last year's total. That, he says, is based on a better global political situation, noting that last year as much as 50% of the global population had to select new leaders. He also thinks that price stabilisation from Champagne producers will help – as opposed to another year of increases. However, if there was one aspect to Champagne purchasing habits last year, it was the need to discount prices to encourage people to stock up on the fizz. And such a mechanic to secure sales will be needed again in 2025, particularly in major mature markets such as the UK and France. For this reason, Bollinger’s de Belenet added that a Champagne rebound won’t be dependent on just retaining prices as they are, but also continuing a high-level of promotional activity. Bearing in mind the cost of stock being held by the Champenois has gone up – a result of rising grapes prices over recent harvests along with increased interest rates – margins are likely to suffer, even if total volumes of Champagne may grow. As a result, he says, “From a market point of view I am positive [for Champagne], but from a financial point of view, it will be difficult.” Similarly, Ruinart’s Dufour believes that, “profitability has gone down, and severely," speaking for Champagne producers. This is due to declining sales of higher-value cuvées, as well as the fact “brands had to buy volumes with promotions”. “Over time,” he added, “This will balance out” – referring to the rising cost of production being passed on to the consumer. But for now, it’s clear that margins for brand owners are taking a hit.

Why have Champagne shipments dropped by almost 55m bottles in two years?

Hors Bordeaux 2025: French releases’ tasting notes

Colin Hay — Mon, 03 Mar 2025 10:41:47 +0000

db’s Bordeaux correspondent Colin Hay assesses the French wines being released during of the 2025 spring hors Bordeaux campaign, both red and white, and Champagne. French releases (red)

	Vintage	Region	Rating
Domaine Raquillet Mercurey Vieilles Vignes	2022	Burgundy	90
Domaine Geantet-Pansiot Bourgogne Pinot Fin	2023	Burgundy	89
Domaine Geantet-Pansiot Côteaux Bourguignons	2023	Burgundy	88
Domaine Geantet-Pansiot Hautes-Côtes de Nuits	2023	Burgundy	91
Domaine Geantet-Pansiot Marsannay	2023	Burgundy	89
Domaine Geantet-Pansiot Gevrey-Chambertin	2023	Burgundy	91+
Domaine Geantet-Pansiot Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes	2023	Burgundy	92
Domaine Geantet-Pansiot Gevrey-Chambertin 1^er Cru Le Poissenot	2023	Burgundy	93+
Domaine Geantet-Pansiot Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes	2023	Burgundy	93
Domaine Geantet-Pansiot Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru	2023	Burgundy	94+
Hermitage La Chapelle (Domaine La Chapelle)	2022	Rhone	97

Domaine Raquillet Mercurey Vieilles Vignes 2022 (Mercurey; 100% Pinot Noir; 13.5% alcohol; a Joanne exclusivity and so not really on la place per se). A surprise when it’s poured. This could be Cabernet Sauvignon from its appearance in the glass, so deep and dark and highly coloured is it. Distinctly oaky too. Fruits of the forest and vanilla. Crushed raspberries. Warm spice box notes. This is dense, concentrated and distinctly smoky with quite chewy, grippy tannins. Impressively lithe on the palate where the viscosity and density are very evident. But, given this, it’s more lithe than you might imagine and the oak is much less apparent on the palate. It certainly needs time and I find the tannins a touch dry on the finish. This feels a little forced for me but I’d be keen to re-taste this. 90. Domaine Geantet-Pansiot Bourgogne Pinot Fin 2023 (Bourgogne; 100% Pinot Fin sourced from Geantet-Pansiot’s Gevrey and Brochon vineyards on predominantly limestone soils, with part of the vineyard located at the mouth of the Combe de Lavaux; aged in oak barrels, around 20% of which are new; 13.2% alcohol). Characterised, again, by that signature Geantet-Pansiot freshness and directness. Wild strawberries freshly harvested and plucked from their stalks. A little raspberry too and a lifted more tactile, textural raspberry leaf and stem note. A wine of precision if not of great complexity. Refreshing and charming, authentic and unpretentious. 89. Domaine Geantet-Pansiot Côteaux Bourguignons 2023 (Bourgogne; 100% Gamay; there’s just 1 hectare of this, sourced from the ‘Marcilly’, ‘La Pension’, and ‘Au Prunier’ plots, on the clay-limestone soils of Gevrey-Chambertin; aged in oak barrels, around 20% of which are new; 12.5% alcohol). Magenta/pink at the rim with impressive blue/purple highlights at the core. Wild and herbal but with a very pure, penetrating loganberry and mulberry fruit. Sage and a very subtle hint of nutmeg. A hint of oak smoke. Quite slender at first in the mouth but then it broadens in frame just a little from below. Silkily-textured and very pure if somewhat lacking in complexity. Simple, fresh and focussed. 88. Domaine Geantet-Pansiot Hautes-Côtes de Nuits 2023 (Hautes-Côtes de Nuits; 100% Pinot Noir largely sourced from parcels of Chevannes and Messanges in the cool heights of the Combe de Chaux; aged in oak barrels, around 30% of which are new; 13% alcohol). Crisp. Fresh. Bright. Quite creamy in texture but with a searing fruit intensity that is impressive even if it’s also a little monolithic. Red berry fruits – raspberry and redcurrant. Lithe and sinuous with lots of energy and vitality. There’s a nice balance to this. Quaffable and a great introduction to the range. 91. Domaine Geantet-Pansiot Marsannay 2023 (Marsannay; 100% Pinot Noir; from Geantet-Pansiot’s 0.92 hectares, the ‘Les Nagelottes’, ‘Petits Puits’, and ‘Grand Poirier’ parcels on clay-limestone soils with the presence of compacted oyster shell marl; 13.5% alcohol). Bright and crisp with loganberries and redcurrant intermingling with a little red cherry and lemon thyme. Fresh and quite racy with a pronounced vertical acidity bringing lift and tension and seeming to project the juicy red berry fruit upwards to the top of the palate. Not especially complex but very pure and focussed and with decent length on the finish. 89. Domaine Geantet-Pansiot Gevrey-Chambertin 2023 (Gevrey-Chambertin; 100% Pinot Noir; from just 1.35 hectares and sourced from the estate’s young vines on clay-limestone soils at the northern limits of the appellation; aged in oak barrels, around 30% of which are new; 13.5% alcohol). You might expect there to be rather more of this than the Vieilles Vignes. But you’d be wrong. There’s not much of either, but even less of this. The same signature freshness and precision as there is in all of these wines, here with a rather more ample frame. The fruit has more of a chance to relax in a way and that gives this a certain opulence and gravitas that is not to be found in the more tense and taut Marsannay or the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits. Crushed red berry fruits – raspberry, loganberry and a little mulberry too. With aeration a hint of blackberry and blackcurrant too. Fresh and fruit-forward with beady tannings bristling a little on the finish. 91+. Domaine Geantet-Pansiot Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 2023 (Gevrey-Chambertin; 100% Pinot Noir, from 2.32 hectares in total and blended from 17 separate parcels all over 50 years old on a combination of clay-limestone and stony soils; aged in oak barrels, around 30% of which are new; 13% alcohol). Intriguing. There’s almost a slightly lactic element to this alongside the darker berry fruits – loganberries and mulberries. Engaging and enticing on the palate, with lots of interest, lots of freshness and a very dynamic and energetic mid-palate – conjuring a cartoon image of a bunch of wild animals in a bag with limbs jutting out everywhere. Very sapid and juicy and with a touch of Gevrey seriousness and austerity right at the end reminding you where you are. Excellent. 92. Domaine Geantet-Pansiot Gevrey-Chambertin 1^er Cru Le Poissenot 2023 (Gevrey-Chambertin; 100% Pinot Noir from a prime site at 350 metres in altitude, just above Lavaux Saint-Jacques, on well-drained limestone soils of the Combe de Lavaux; aged for around 16 months in oak barrels, around half of which are new; 14% alcohol). Gorgeously juicy. Richer and denser but more aerial and aromatically vertical in its presentation too. It is also more intensely floral. Rose petals joins the assorted red berry fruits plucked from their husks. A little scratched leather too. Some wild herbs. Sapid and intense with a lovely attack, the acidity more than the tannins reining this in and pulling it back to the spine but in a lovely non-linear way, producing a kind of spiralling of the juicy fruits in the mouth. I love the sense of energy here! 93+. Domaine Geantet-Pansiot Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes 2023 (Chambolle-Musigny; 100% Pinot Noir; there are just 0.36 hectares of this from three parcels all of over 50 years in age, ‘Les Athets’, ‘Les Pas de Chats’ and ‘Les Fouchères’ on stony soils rich in iron oxide at the foot of the slope; aged in oak barrels, around 30% of which are new; 13.5% alcohol). A lovely wine with a most radiant aromatic profile – plump red cherries, redcurrants and confit raspberry intermingling with wilder heather and herbal notes and a little hint of freshly scratched new leather. Naturally sweet on the attack with a beautifully sapid and luminous quality that comes from the fine granularity of the tannins. More subtle and more mineral in character than the Gevrey Vieilles Vignes, but quite spicy too and with plenty of freshly cracked red peppercorn. Balanced and pure. 93. Domaine Geantet-Pansiot Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 2023 (Charmes-Chambertin; 100% Pinot Noir; Geanter-Pansiot’s 0.45 hectares of Charmes-Chambertin are located near Griotte-Chambertin at the northern-most edge of the prestigious ‘Charmes’ climat on a limestone soil rich in marl; aged in oak barrels, around 50% of which are new; 14.5% alcohol). Unremarkably, the very best of the Geantet-Pansiot offerings on la place this year, this is elegant, refined, fascinatingly complex above all aromatically, but also delicate and voluptuous at the same time. The tannins are beautifully-grained as is the form in the mouth that they contribute to crafting. Vibrantly red-berry fruited with a gracious poise and engaging evolution over the palate this is very long and gently tapering on the finish. There’s a hint of violet and soft leather. The beady tannins serve to accentuate the very tactile sense of this wine in the mouth, bringing a degree of detail and delineation that I don’t find in the other cuvées. 94+. Hermitage La Chapelle (Domaine La Chapelle) 2022 (Hermitage; 100% Syrah; 14% alcohol; tasted at La Lagune with Caroline and Delphine Frey around a month before bottling; then at the Joanne tasting in July 2024). This is a re-release in a mixed 2-bottle (wooden) case with Domaine La Chapelle’s Chevalier de Sterimberg 2022. A little closed at first, but it opens nicely with gentle aeration. Walnut and walnut oil. Dark berry fruits. Sloe and plums, maybe a little damson and black cherry with a little coaxing. Peony, hyacinth, mimosa. Graphite. Earthy, with a little leafy, humous/sous bois note. Sage too. Plump. This has a lovely shape, texture and form in the mouth, pushing at the cheeks just a little. Despite the sustained intensity of the record heat of the vintage, the exceptional terroir has retained an essential freshness. As Caroline Frey explains, everything on granitic soils coped so well despite this being the hottest vintage ever. A lovely trace of liquorice on the finish where one finds also chewy grape skins. 97.

French releases (white)

	Vintage	Region	Rating
Domaine Raquillet La Brigadière Mercurey	2023	Burgundy	91
Domaine Geantet-Pansiot Bourgogne Aligoté	2023	Burgundy	87
Domaine Geantet-Pansiot Bourgogne Blanc	2023	Burgundy	89
Domaine Geantet-Pansiot Marsannay Blanc	2023	Burgundy	91
Domaine Geantet-Pansiot Hautes-Côtes de Nuits	2023	Burgundy	88
Quentin Jeannot Vibrato Hautes-Côtes de Beaune	2023	Burgundy	91
Quentin Jeannot Les 8 Ouvrees Maranges	2023	Burgundy	92
Quentin Jeannot Clos de Hates Santenay	2023	Burgundy	93
Quentin Jeannot Les Narvaux Meursault	2023	Burgundy	94
Hermitage La Chapelle Chevalier de Sterimberg	2022	Rhone	96+

Domaine Raquillet La Brigadière Mercurey 2023 (Mercurey; 100% Chardonnay; 13.5% alcohol; like the red an exclusivity of Joanne). Oaky. But lithe and sinuous despite the almost cloying viscosity. Fresh with chiselling lime and lime confit notes. Fresh melon too. Indeed, this gets fresher and fresher as we glide towards the long finish. But there’s just a little dryness again from the oak right at the end. 91. Domaine Geantet-Pansiot Bourgogne Aligoté 2023 (Bourgogne Aligoté; 100% Aligoté; just 1.45 hectares sourced signifcantly from Geantet-Pansiot’s parcels ‘Au Prunier’ and ‘Chareux’ in Gevrey-Chambertin and ‘Les Cognées’ in Morey-Saint-Denis; aged in oak barrels, around 30% of them new; 12% alcohol). Almost a little like a Petit Chablis at first with a lovely pithy grapefruit and pulpy gooseberry freshness to it and a pleasing gentle spiciness from the oak. Peach and necatine with more aeration. Slender and sleak, bright and crisp, but simple and short on the finish. Certainly well-made and excellent for what it is. 87. Domaine Geantet-Pansiot Bourgogne Blanc 2023 (Bourgogne; 100% Chardonnay; just 0.3 hectares sourced from the ‘Paquier des Chênes’ and ‘Pince Vin’ parcels in Gevrey-Chambertin as well as ‘En Lavaux’ in Marsannay on limestone soils; aged in oak barrels, around 30% of them new; 13% alcohol). This is not your average Bourgogne Blanc and the production is miniscule. Richer and fuller, of course, than the Aligoté but still very structured and chiselled by the limestone, this is actually a little strict and austere but vivid in its freshness. Simple, certainly, but with more terroir signature than the other whites and a with pleasing juiciness to the sapid finish. 89. Domaine Geantet-Pansiot Marsannay Blanc 2023 (Marsannay; 100% Chardonnay; just 0.23 hectares sourced from the ‘Les Petits Puits’ and ‘Le Village’ climats on fresh clay-limestone soils; aged in oak barrels, around 60% of them new; 13.5% alcohol). For me, probably the best of the Geantet-Pansiot whites (or, at least, those I have tasted – as the range is quite extensive). This is both richer and denser, on the one hand, but also more impressively chiselled and sculpted, on the other, with a very marked limestone identity. It also has more sustenance with a very well defined spinal column that renders this very linear on the long finish. The imperceptibility of the oak is also impressive given that 60 per cent of this is aged in new wood. 91. Domaine Geantet-Pansiot Bourgogne Haut-Côtes de Nuits blanc 2023 (Bourgogne Haut-Côtes de Nuits; 100% Chardonnay; from 1.54 hectares in Messanges and Chevannes above Nuits-St-Georges on fresh clay-limestone soils; aged in oak barrels, around 50% of them new; 13% alcohol). Creamier texturally than the other whites here. A little closed aromatically. This is quite ample on the attack with crisp apple, white pear and maybe a hint of peach. Blanched almonds. A hint of wood smoke. Simple, but pure and quite precise with a gently tapering finish. 88. Quentin Jeannot Vibrato Hautes-Côtes de Beaune 2023 (Hautes-Côtes de Beaune; 100% Chardonnay; 13% alcohol; an exclusivity of Joanne). Full, rich and quite fat but charged with energising acidity rendering this succulent and juicy, especially towards the finish. Refreshing but big and punchy and almost too much for me on the attack. A wine I’d serve very cold. 91. Quentin Jeannot Les 8 Ouvrées Maranges 2023 (Maranges; 100% Chardonnay; 13% alcohol; an exclusivity of Joanne). More intense and more charged with acidity than the Vibrato cuvée, making this both more dynamic in the mouth and more intriguing aromatically. Lime. Confit lemon. Lemon meringue pie. Fresh and finely tapering on the finish. Sapid too. 92. Quentin Jeannot Clos de Hâtes Santenay 2023 (Santanay; 100% Chardonnay; 12.5% alcohol; an exclusivity of Joanne). Hats off (sorry!) – we have something more refined here. Glassy and luminous yet very dynamic and energetic in the mouth. Aromatically, this is strangely reminiscent of Sauternes. Confit melon. White spring blooms. Fresh ginger, even – but just a hint. Fennel too. Very dynamic and racy with vortices of freshness. 93. Quentin Jeannot Les Narvaux Meursault 2023 (Meursault; 100% Chardonnay; 13% alcohol; an exclusivity of Joanne). Certainly the best of these, as it should be given the quality of the terroir. Lime and linden, beeswax, those early spring hedgerow floral notes. This is wondrously fresh and chiselled. Pure and nicely focussed despite the considerable density. This never threatens to lose its shape. Racy and almost painfully juicy on the finish. 94. Hermitage La Chapelle Chevalier de Sterimberg (Domaine de la Chapelle) 2022 (Hermitage; 87% Marsanne; 13% Rousanne; 14% alcohol). Subtle and restrained; delicate and pure; precise and focussed; and very youthful. This is rather closed and inexpressive for now. But everything’s in the right place. Pink and white flowers. White rose petals. Fennel. Intensely fresh but always subtle on the palate with intriguing slightly exotic notes – jasmine, fresh ginger, white pepper but also a hint of guava and star fruit, even a touch of Chinese 5 spice. Long and shimmering on the finish, though less expressive at this stage than the exceptional 2021. 96+.

Champagne

Champagne releases	Vintage	Region	Rating
Domaine Alexandre Bonnet La Forêt	2020	Champagne	95
Champagne Boizel Joyau Rosé Extra-Brut	2012	Champagne	94
Champagne Lanson Cuvée Noble (magnum)	1989	Champagne	97
Champagne Philipponnat Clos des Goisses Juste Rosé Extra-Brut Juste Rosé	2014	Champagne	96

Domaine Alexandre Bonnet La Forêt Brut Nature 2020 (Champagne; 100% Pinot Noir from 4 hectares in the Côte de Bar; zéro dosage; pH 3.04; 13.4% alcohol; just 1312 bottles, 50 magnums and 20 jereboams). A new cuvée exclusively for la place and a fascinating addition to la place’s line-up of top Champagnes. Incredibly vinous and a real vin de terroir, this comes from a tiny plot in the steep upper reaches (around 250 metres) of the prestigious Les Riceys in the Côte de Bar on the extreme southern limit of the Champagne region. It is intensely structured by the Kimmeridgian limestone terroir that gives this wine its identity. This is very fine indeed. Yeast. Brioche. Wild strawberries. Redcurrant. Hay. Angelique. Confit fruits. Frangipane. Almond brittle. Nougat. In the mouth, this is hyper-chiselled – as if carved from the limestone below. Fresh and strict but in a wonderful way, bringing lots of tension and energy to the mid-palate. A really vinous champagne from a great terroir with so much fresh berry fruit on the finish. There’s no need to defer gratification here (and little incentive to do so when one considers the likely price)! 95. Joyau Rosé Extra-Brut 2012 (Champagne; 63% Pinot Noir; 37% Chardonnay; with a dosage of 3.5 g/l; 12% alcohol). Saline and more evolved aromatically, with secondary notes the first to reveal themselves. A hint of white truffle. Confit strawberries, iodine and sea-spray, peach-skin. Mirabelles. Frangipane. In the mouth this is quite chewy, with almost the sensation of the peach skin from the aromatics reappearing in textural form on the palate – bringing with it almost a little tannin which I love. Quite serious and chiselled on the palate, the dosage right at the lower limit which is an excellent choice. Youthful – but rather more so on the palate. Long and tapering, pure and precise if perhaps lacking a little of the complexity of the non-rosé cuvée. 94. Champagne Lanson Cuvée Noble 1989 (Champagne; 100% Chardonnay sourced exclusively from Lanson’s Grand Cru vineyards, the Chardonnay from Avize, Cramant, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Chouilly and the Pinot Noir from Verzenay; dosage extra-brut, 3 g/l; disgorged a year ago; no malolactic fermentation; available only in a very limited release of magnums). This has ever moved from the cellars of Lanson. Golden in hue, but youthfully so, with something of Tutankhamun’s burial mask about it! Truffle. Toasted brioche and melted beurre au fleur de sel. White pear. Angelica. Walnut shell. In the mouth, this is incredibly youthful. Mirabelle and white pear, again, on the fresh, ample and vibrant attack before the chiselling limestone terroir seems to take charge, bringing acid grip that really sculpts the wine over the palate. Zesty and fresh. You’d really never guess the age, above all from the palate. Vivid and limpid and all the better, one suspects, for being in magnum. 97. Clos des Goisses Juste Rosé Extra-Brut (Philipponnat) 2014 (Champagne; 80% Pinot Noir, of which around 15 per cent is rosé de saignée; 20% Chardonnay; dosage March 2024; dosage of 4.5 g/l; 12.5% alcohol; 2820 bottles and a few magnums; disgorged on a single day in March 2023). This was released in the autumn on la place but there are now a few more bottles available. From a late and more generous vintage, like 2004, 1998 or 1982. Very pure and crisp but without the concentration of a sunnier vintage. Staggeringly complex. This has the accent very much on the ‘juste’ in ‘juste rosé’ when it comes to the colour. Bergamot. Seville Orange marmalade. Blood orange. Quince. Rhubarb. Cinnamon. There’s a lovely delicacy to this, but it’s impressively compact too. It is more ample in form on the attack than other vintage champagnes tasted. Open-textured. Supple. Plush. Aerial. Lifted. Pillowy and relaxed. A fascinating wine. Easy and already accessible. 96.

Pharrell Williams debuts Champagne collaboration

Eloise Feilden — Mon, 03 Mar 2025 10:24:41 +0000

American musician and record producer Pharrell Williams has partnered with Champagne house Moët & Chandon on a limited edition collection which includes the release of 30 €30,000 bottles. The LVMH-owned Champagne house launched The Moët & Chandon Pharrell Williams Limited-Edition Collection globally on Saturday 1 March. Williams, the talent behind songs including Happy and Drop It Like It's Hot alongside Snoop Dogg, has redesigned Moët & Chandon's classic cuvées for the limited-edition collection. The new collection has been created specifically to celebrate birthdays. “The best part about a birthday are the people who want to celebrate it with you,” Williams commented. “When I was old enough to toast with Champagne for the first time, Moët & Chandon was my point of reference. I suppose it’s just a tradition; it’s the ritual.” The musician, who is also the men's creative director for Louis Vuitton, has taken inspiration from the Moët & Chandon archives where he discovered that the Champagne house's signature tie on the bottle was originally a bow in 1889. This became the inspiration for his take on the new bottle designs. Moët & Chandon Impérial Brut and Moët & Chandon Nectar Impérial Rosé in 750ml format take on a new look for the Parrell Williams collection, which has been created to celebrate birthdays. The collaboration also features The Bow Capsule Collection, which features Moët & Chandon Impérial Brut in magnum; Moët & Chandon Nectar Impérial Rosé; and Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage 2013. Moët & Chandon has said that the third cuvée in the Bow Capsule Collection will be made available via private sale and to friends of the Champagne house. Williams' collaboration also includes 30 numbered bottles of The Jewel Masterpiece, a jeroboam with a handmade, wearable pearl bow by French embroidery & textile studio Baque Molinie. The Jewel Masterpieces are available through the Moët Hennessy Private Sales service, in the Epernay boutique, and at select Moët & Chandon bars at a price of €30,000. Moët & Chandon's latest limited-edition collection is available in pop-up gift shops in London, Madrid, Milan, Dubai, Mexico City, Korea and Japan. It has also debuted in selected retail, gastronomy, and hotel spaces, and in the Moët & Chandon Bars in Epernay, at Harrods in London, and at Kadewe in Berlin.

Why have Champagne shipments dropped by almost 55m bottles in two years?

Patrick Schmitt — Tue, 25 Feb 2025 11:19:46 +0000

Aside from the 2020 Covid-induced blip, Champagne shipments have dropped to a level not seen since the turn of the century – so what are the causes of decline? We find out from the region’s key players.

As db reported last month, Champagne shipments in 2024 were 271.4 million bottles, which was down 9.2% from 2023 – a drop of 27.6m bottles on the previous year, when 299m bottles were shipped. With the 2023 figure down just over 8% – or 26.5m bottles – on the total of 325.5m in 2022, the region has shed more than 50m bottles in two years (54.1m to be exact), and is now shipping volumes worldwide, including the domestic market, that are similar to the quantities of 2001, which were 262.7m (see figures, bottom). Indeed, in this century, only the totals in 2000, 2001 and 2020 were lower than 2024. And those years were marked by extraordinary events: shipments in 2000 and 2001 were reduced due to a stock hangover from the Millennium celebrations – which turned out not to be as Champagne-heavy as envisaged – while 2020 was hit by the first Covid-related lockdowns. So why has Champagne been shedding volumes? As noted in early 2024, the three major reasons for falling sales of Champagne in 2023 were price rises, overstocking and falling consumer confidence. If we move forward to 2024, the trends are broadly similar, though there are differences, which explain the continued decline in shipments over the past 12 months. And, for David Chatillon, who is president of the Champagne Houses and co-president of the Comité Champagne, the region has in fact proved remarkably resilient if one considers the strong negative influences on consuming a product that is so closely linked to good times. “The drop of 9% is serious, but it could be worse,” he told db last month. “Everything is against the occasions of drinking Champagne: inflation, political instability in France and the US, and geopolitical issues worldwide,” he added. Such a scenario does mean that the Champenois don’t appear surprised by the year-end shipment figure. “We were expecting it,” said the managing director of Champagne Jacquart, Sébastien Briend, when db discussed the 271m bottle shipment total for 2024. However, if there was an element of surprise and disappointment, it was the performance of international markets versus France. “What is different about last year is that exports were worse than the domestic market,” said Briend. “I don’t know when was the last time that France had a better trend than exports, but it was probably 25 years ago,” he continued, before concluding, “But it’s not good news, because both are down. In fact, 2024 saw France drop by 7.2% to total 118.2 million bottles while exports fell 10.8% to hit 153.2 million bottles. However, that does mean that exports represent 56.4% of total sales and remain higher than sales on the domestic market. Briend is clear on why France suffered declines in 2024 – although it is a market that has suffered an ongoing if gradual fall-off in Champagne consumption this century. “Champagne’s largest single market is France, and it has been a mess, politically and economically,” he recorded. But this key volume consumer for Champagne has not been alone in terms of problems, with the second largest market for the French fizz, the US, also suffering declines – although the exact year-end numbers are yet to be released. Affecting consumer confidence and therefore Champagne sales in North America were elections last year, something that also made an impact on consumption levels in the UK, while several of the Champenois noted that even a normally stable market like Germany was troubled politically and economically in 2024 (and has of course only just concluded its elections). Then there’s been the ongoing situation in Ukraine, and the Middle East. Indeed, few parts of the world were in the mood for popping corks. As Champagne Besserat de Bellefon president Nathalie Doucet said to db with an air of despair, even the once-growing South Korean market has been unsettled – noting that not long after she visited the nation to open up sales for her maison, the impeached president of the country declared martial law. But it’s not just geopolitics that have affected Champagne shipments in the past 12 months, but an excess of stock in major markets. Speaking of last year, Champagne Taittinger president Vitalie Taittinger told db that shipments were down in 2024 both due to mood-dampening economic and political factors as well as an excess of bottles in the market at the end of 2023. “Countries were a bit full of stock, so last year was a kind of correction,” she said. That does mean, she stressed, “So we start this year in conditions that are very good.” Indeed, Ruinart CEO Frédéric Dufour believes that because major Champagne markets were running down stocks at the start of 2024, as opposed to ordering more bottles, shipments during the past year don’t reflect consumption, and by some margin. “We know there was an element of correction of stock early last year, so maybe the real number in terms of demand [by consumers] is not far from 290m bottles,” he told db. On the other hand, several Champenois said that year-end shipments may have been inflated to the tune of a couple of million bottles by shipments to the US ahead of 2025 – which were sent to the market by those houses with a large audience and / or subsidiaries in the market due to fears that the Trump administration would impose tariffs on the product (along with other high-end French goods). Bollinger MD, Charles-Armand de Belenet explained. “There is a very high probably that the US will impose a tax on French wines and spirits which is why we decided to ship some volumes to the market [at the end of 2024].” He continued, “So part of the global figures were shipments to the US, with maybe 2 million bottles being shipped to the US in advance [of President Trump’s inauguration on 20 January this year].” Aside from these factors, another impact on shipments last year, and in 2023 too, has been the issue of price – Champagne has become more expensive, and at a time when many consumers are feeling their incomes squeezed as a result of inflation on energy and food, as well as due to servicing debt, such as mortgages, when interest rates are higher. “No one wants to talk about prices, but the price of Champagne has gone up 20-25% in three years, and that’s the reason for the decline [in sales],” said Charles Philipponnat of Champagne Philipponnat. This rise he ascribes to the increase cost of grapes in Champagne. “There has been an increase in the price of grapes and the increase in the price of bottles parallels it,” he told db. He continued, “What we’ve seen for first time is actual substitution by crémant and even Prosecco, and that is only because of price.” Concluding, he said, “You see it here in France, and that’s because a bottle of [Brut NV] Philipponnat was €35 and now it’s €45 – it’s a steep step.” On the other hand, price discounting on Champagne has been effective, helping to shift stock and keep consumers drinking the product. And, Bollinger’s de Belenet makes the point that the prices of Champagne on discount are still higher than they were before the pandemic. “If you have a strong brand then you become very attractive when on promotion – consumers jump on it, especially if you think that there have been three years without promotional activity,” he said, referring to the post-Covid rebound and resulting Champagne scarcity. He added, “So it seems like a great deal, even if the promotion price is still higher than in 2019.” “It is wrong to say that people don’t want to drink Champagne any more; if there is the right activation, then they buy it,” he stated. There are other factors at play too. People are now spending more on travel, which is depleting their disposable incomes for stay-at-home luxuries like drinking fine wine and Champagne, believes de Belenet. “If you look at the travel data, you will see that it is now above 2019, so there has been a huge shift in consumer spending: travelling is still perceived as the ultimate luxury, and it has a huge impact on luxury products and especially luxury wines and spirits,” he said. Furthermore, aside from elections; war in the Middle East and Ukraine; falling disposable incomes and rising prices of Champagne, as well as a renewed urge to splurge on travel, there may be another reason why some key Champagne markets are performing relatively poorly in 2024 – and that was the weather. Across Europe, and particularly in the major Champagne consuming markets of the UK and France, “the summer was very bad,” pointed out Doucet. She added, “And, especially in France, if the weather is bad, you don’t drink Champagne.” Finally, it should be noted that the fall-off in the past two years appears marked due to its comparison with an "extraordinary" boom in Champagne consumption, stressed de Belenet. Calling the post-pandemic rebound in Champagne sales in 2021 and 2021 "the roaring 20s", he said, "It was not reality, but an exceptional moment, due to an exceptional situation." And, to end on a positive note, Pol Roger Portfolio MD James Simpson MW identified at least one benefit to a slight decline in demand for the fine French fizz. As he told db in January, “Sales have slowed down, and, as a result, there’s a bit more age on it, which means that the quality of Champagne is better than it’s ever been.” Champagne shipments (bottles) 2024-1999: 2024: 271m 2023: 299m 2022: 326m 2021: 320m 2020: 245m 2019: 297.5m 2018: 301.9m 2017: 307.3m 2016: 306.1m 2015: 313m 2014: 307m 2013: 305m 2012: 309m 2011: 323m 2010: 319m 2009: 293m 2008: 322.5m 2007: 338.7m 2006: 321.8m 2005: 307.7m 2004: 301.4m 2003: 293.5m 2002: 287.7m 2001: 262.7m 2000: 253.2m 1999: 327m

Delta Air Lines teams up with Taittinger

Louis Thomas — Wed, 19 Feb 2025 10:36:41 +0000

Delta Air Lines has added Taittinger Brut La Française to its in-flight drinks menu for Delta One passengers on international flights. Brut La Française is a non-vintage Champagne consisting of a blend of 40% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir and 25% Meunier, which spends almost four years on the lees. Taittinger describes it as having aromas of peach, white flowers, vanilla pod and brioche. Suggested food pairings include seafood and white meat. Delta Air Lines will be serving the fine French fizz to its Delta One passengers on long-haul flights this spring. Champagne Taittinger president Vitalie Taittinger commented: "At Taittinger, we take great pride in sharing our Champagne with those who appreciate craftsmanship and elegance. This partnership with Delta – especially in such a milestone year – is a beautiful opportunity to bring our heritage to travellers around the world. Together, we are elevating the art of hospitality, one glass at a time." The "milestone year" in question is the centenary of the foundation of Delta Air Lines, initially as crop dusting company Huff Daland Dusters in 1925. It was only in 1929 that it took off as an airline. “A family-owned Champagne house, Taittinger’s reputation for excellence mirrors our own, and we’re thrilled to partner with them as we elevate your travel experience,” said Delta's senior vice president of inflight service Kristen Manion Taylor. Late last year, Singapore Airlines became the only air carrier to offer Cristal 2015 to its passengers. Indeed, the race for airlines to improve the wine offerings for their passengers resulted in Qatar Airlines recently hiring a Master of Wine to curate its in-flight list.

Liv-ex: Only Italian wines escapes declines during January

db staff writer — Tue, 18 Feb 2025 13:04:22 +0000

All of Liv-ex’s major indices, except for the Italy 100, recorded declines in January, it has reported - with all indices now down over the past one-year and two-year periods, and 10 of the 18 indices down over a five-year period. The Liv-ex Fine Wine 100, the industry leading benchmark, fell 0.4% in January to close at 326.1, with the wider market also down, as reflected in the the Liv-ex Fine Wine 1000 (which tracks 1,000 wines from across the world), which fell by 0.9%. The index closed at 362.9, down from its last close 366.2. Bordeaux did not fare well in January. The Liv-ex Fine Wine 50 (which tracks the 10 most recent physical vintages of the First Growths) fell 1.0%, while the Second Wine 50 was the worst performing index overall, recording a 1.8% decline. Prices of the second wines included in this index rose disproportionately to their quality from 2008-2010 and failed to come down sufficiently in subsequent market downturns - but now, they are falling fast, already below their 2010 peak, and approaching 2015 price levels. The Italy 100 was the only Liv-ex index to record a rise in January – up 0.6% following its falter in December. The index has demonstrated resilience to the broader market’s downturn, and with the Italy 100’s bid:offer ratio sticking above 0.5 and currently the healthiest of any index, it would seem that Italy might continue to hold up while others falter. While the Super Tuscans tend to appear more frequently amongst the week’s top –traded wines, it was largely Northern Italian wines that populated the list of best month-on-month price performers. Notably, only one vintage of Gaja’s Barbaresco – the 2019 – recorded a price decrease (down 0.6%). It should be noted that after December’s festivities, January saw a notable uptick in activity. Compared to December, trade count was up 12.3%, trade volume was up 37.0%, and trade value was up 13.4%. A more interesting comparison can be made with January 2024, with trade count up 23.6%, volume up 41.5% and value up 13.0% compared to last year.

What can Cistercian monks teach a modern Champagne house?

Michael Huband — Mon, 17 Feb 2025 09:25:34 +0000

The era of winemaking monks may be largely over, but Champagne Drappier proves their influence is still valuable in its Clarevallis cuvée. Categories of ‘Old World’ and ‘New World’ may be falling out of favour, but there are undeniably wine regions that bring immense history to the table. One of those, of course, is Champagne. Its wines were well regarded even before they took on their sparkling identity. Winegrowing dates back to at least the 5th century, and Champagne’s proximity to the important towns of Soissons, Laon and Paris no doubt helped in its early development. It was, however, the influence of monks, including one Dom Pierre Pérignon, that really grew the industry, ready for its commercial success. It is to that storied history that Champagne Drappier’s Clarevallis pays tribute. The cuvée takes its name from St. Bernard’s Clairvaux Abbey, the largest Cistercian abbey in France. Yet it is not just a canny branding exercise. The style and production of the cuvée reference the region’s history; in the words of the house, it is “Cistercian purity in a generous nature.”

A modern tribute to the past

The clearest evidence of Clarevallis’ historical connection is in the vines themselves. Its grapes are sourced from Urville hillsides, and the vineyards date back to the era of Cistercian monks. In fact, the village of Urville in the Côte des Bar is just 15 minutes away from the Clairvaux Abbey. In tending those vines, Champagne Drappier takes an approach that is both led by tradition and in keeping with modern tastes. Despite it being a challenging prospect, the vines are all tended organically. They are even tilled partly with a horse. Such techniques, which would have been recognisable to 17th century monks, ensure that Clarevallis can express its landscape. The Jurassic Kimmeridgean limestone terroir is allowed to shine through with minimal intervention, reflected in a minerality that the house marks as a calling card of the wine. Once in the winery, lower intervention remains the focus. The blend, led by Pinot Noir, but also featuring Pinot Meunier, Chardonnay and Blanc Vrai (Pinot Blanc), comes only from the first press to preserve the grapes’ natural delicacy. It is transferred through the winery by gravity, a technique known for its gentleness. On bottling, little is changed. Drappier does not filter or discolour the wine, and sulfites are kept to a minimum. The dosage – 4g/l – is also intended to be a discreet addition. Thus the production of Clarevallis pays tribute to ancient styles of production, even as they dovetail with modern consumer interests in organic viticulture and lower intervention.

Finding its audience

What is fascinating about Clarevallis is the position it occupies between tradition and modernity. Even the label makes that case. The design, referencing an illuminated medieval manuscript, is evidently historical. Yet it is cleanly designed, modern and unfussy. Likewise the “purity” referenced by the house is a telling term. It is not just a question of historical authenticity, but also of the authentic expression of grapes and terroir. Drappier’s approach in marking Clarevallis could be considered ‘back-to-basics’ but it is also in step with some of the biggest trends in the current industry. Consumers increasingly seek out authenticity in production, displaying the grapes and their terroir without addition or adulteration. Whether looking back to the past or forwards to a new generation of drinkers, Champagne Drappier has found a definition of purity that serves them well. Don’t let the proud historical references throw you; this is a Champagne just as happy in the 21st century as in the 17th. Patricia Stefanowicz MW tasted the cuvée last year and her tasting note follows.

Champagne Drappier Clarevallis NV

Producer: Champagne Drappier
Region: Champagne
Country: France
Grape varieties: 75% Pinot Noir, 10% Chardonnay, 10% Meunier, 5% Blanc Vrai
ABV: 12.0%
Vintage: NV
Closure: Champagne Cork
Approx. retail price: £60.00
Medal: Gold

Inspired by the 12th century Clairvaux monastery of St. Bernard, this Champagne displays a mid-deep gold colour and tiny bubbles that migrate gently to the edge of the cordon. The aromatic nose has yellow peach and apricot with butter and cream autolysis and crushed yellow rose and violet accents. The Brut-style palate, too, is beautifully perfumed, medium-bodied with linen-textured mousse and bracing acidity framing the flavours. Integrated and showing some development across the mid-palate, the wine has a lengthy, savoury finish. Excellent example.

Are French wine and spirits exports really as bad as they seem?

Eloise Feilden — Thu, 13 Feb 2025 11:06:10 +0000

At first glance, French wine and spirits exports in 2024 paint a dark picture for the industry. But is the situation really all doom and gloom? Eloise Feilden reports. On Tuesday the Fédération des Exportateurs de Vins & Spiritueux de France (FEVS) released its export figures for 2024, revealing a 4% fall in value to €15.6 billion. Gabriel Picard, president of FEVS, said "inflation and geopolitical uncertainties" are weakening, at least for the time being, the premiumisation observed in previous years. Headlines over the past couple of days have focused on the negative, highlighting the drop in value and referencing trade tensions, particularly with China. These are, of course, major concerns not only for French wine and spirits businesses but for those the world over. But hope remains. "What lessons should we draw from these mixed 2024 results?” asked Picard. The FEVS president cited concern for "the continued decline in both volume and now value", but asked whether we should "be satisfied with a performance that remains the fourth highest in history". Indeed, French wine and spirits exports have fallen over the past two years, but from record highs. French wine and spirits reached a peak of €17.2 billion in 2022. They fell 5.9% year-on-year to €16.2 billion in 2023 and have dropped again this year by 4% to €15.6 billion. But this figure remains above pre-Covid levels. French wine and spirits exports reached €14bn in 2019, before the Covid-19 pandemic hit. The years 2020 (-13.9% to €12.1bn) and 2021 (rebounding +28% to €15.5 billion) are a sign of the instability which the pandemic caused. For 2024, while value exports did fall, volumes stabilised year on year (-0.1%).

A closer look

Wine export volumes remained stable in 2024, up 0.7% on the previous year. Revenues declined 3%, predominantly due to a drop in Champagne sales (-8%), while still wines remained steady (-0.5%). In the US, wine and spirits exports are recovering (+5% to €3.8 billion). This rebound is more pronounced for wines, up 8.4% in value in 2024, while spirits remain stable (-0.1%). Champagne has experienced a slight decline in the US market (-2.3%), but sparkling wines from other appellations have spiked, up 16.5%. In Asia, certain markets held up well, such as Japan (-4% at €655 million), while others grew, including Malaysia (+5% at €75 million) and Thailand (+8% at €62 million). However, the positive results in some Asian markets were somewhat overshadowed by a 20% drop in China, with wine and spirits exports falling below the €1bn mark. Unfavourable economic conditions in China were compounded by an anti-dumping investigation into European brandies, which have heavily impacted France's Cognac sales. Tensions in China have massively impacted the overall outlook for French spirits, which fell by 6.5% to €4.5bn, with volumes decreasing to 46.6m cases (-1.8%). Exports to the UK remained stable (-0.7% at €1.7bn). Wine value declined 3.9% to €1.4bn, but the UK was a bright spot for spirits, which saw a sharp 21% increase to €260m. In terms of volume, wines increases 5.4% while spirits decreased 2.5%. Despite the wine and spirits sector seeing its trade balance shrink for the second consecutive year, the industry remains the third-largest trade surplus for France. Picard called on EU and French leaders to resolve political tensions in order to shift exports back into the green. “On top of global economic volatility, geopolitical uncertainty remains high, whether concerning China or the United States,” Picard said. “We expect our European and French leaders to fully grasp that our industry, a key pillar of national sovereignty that cannot be outsourced, must be properly supported. In particular, they must resolve without further delay the dispute affecting Cognac and Armagnac for over a year, which otherwise will severely impact all links in the supply chain and beyond.”

Pernod Ricard weighs possible sale of GH Mumm

Ron Emler — Mon, 10 Feb 2025 10:10:55 +0000

Pernod Ricard has declined to confirm or deny that it is exploring a sale of its champagne brand GH Mumm. According to Reuters, the world’s second-biggest premium drinks group is seeking offers for Mumm as it moves to restructure its portfolio and concentrate on higher-margin spirits, generating a more profitable return on capital employed. "Pernod Ricard regularly assesses and evaluates its strategic opportunities and is continuously exploring options, including divestments or the streamlining" of businesses, the French company said in a statement. "This is a usual process in line with management’s mission of delivering value to shareholders, employees, clients and stakeholders." The group said that no decision about any particular action had been taken. Mumm is one of the most widely known Champagne brands and owns 260 acres of grand and premier cru vineyards in the region. Its Pinot Noir holdings would be attractive to competitor houses. Mumm was founded in 1827 and launched Mumm Napa in 1979 to make sparkling wines in California. It is known for its "Only the Best" branding and its iconic Cordon Rouge red ribbon label. Pernod acquired Mumm in 2005 as part of the joint takeover of Allied Lyons in partnership with Diageo.

The price tag

According to the Reuters report, Pernod Ricard would be unlikely to consider a price of less than €600 million for Mumm, which is about three times the value of its annual sales. Champagne houses have been under pressure as demand has fallen as global consumers adjust their budgets and spending habits to meet the economic slowdown as high rates of inflation persist in Europe, America and China. As a symbol of celebration, Champagne sales fell by some 10% last year. Last year Pernod Ricard sold its Australian and New Zealand wine brands to a consortium of investors headed by Bain & Co because of the low returns they generated. Bain and its backers had already taken control of Accolade to form Australian Wine Holdco. The labels involved in that deal included Jacob’s Creek, Orlando, St Hugo, Stoneleigh and Brancott Estate as well as Spain’s Campo Viejo. Before the sale wines comprised about 4% of Pernod Ricard’s sales.

Wine portfolio

A successful disposal of Mumm would not mean Pernod Ricard exiting wine completely. It reportedly plans to retain the more prestigious Perrier Jouet Champagne brand and also owns the celebrated Provencal rose, Sainte Marguerite. That said, the French company’s reported determination to concentrate on higher margin investment would diminish its previous claims to have a drink (apart from beer) to cater for any occasion. The company is facing difficulties on several fronts. Sales of Martell Cognac were already on the slide before China imposed extra duties as part of a tariff war with the European Union. Market slowdowns President Trump is also threatening EU exports as part of a tariff war but has put a temporary halt on planned imposts to affect products from Mexico and Canada that would include Pernod Ricard’s tequila and Canadian whiskey lines. Finance director Helene de Tissot said last week that tariffs imposed by China and potentially by the United States could hit Pernod Ricard by about €200 million a year. The French company brought forward its interim results announcement last week and cut its forecasts for the year to the end of June. It now predicts a low single-digit decline in organic net sales for the full year

Moët & Chandon returns to Formula 1 podiums

James Bayley — Thu, 06 Feb 2025 10:05:43 +0000

The podiums of Formula 1 will once again glisten with Moët & Chandon, replacing Ferrari Trento as the sport's official sparkling wine sponsor. With Formula 1 and LVMH forging a decade-long partnership, Moët & Chandon has been announced as the Official Champagne of the championship. Since 1950, Moët & Chandon has been a fixture in Formula 1 celebrations. The greatest drivers in history, including Aryton Senna (pictured) and Michael Schumacher, have marked their victories with a bottle of Moët in hand. But this is not merely a return to business as usual. Moët & Chandon is also set to become the title partner of the Belgian Grand Prix, one of the most anticipated races on the Formula 1 calendar. Spa-Francorchamps, a circuit revered for its mercurial weather and unforgiving corners, is the closest Grand Prix to the Champagne region.

Spa-Francorchamps

Nestled in the Ardennes, the legendary Spa-Francorchamps circuit was part of the inaugural Formula 1 World Championship calendar in 1950, with Juan Manuel Fangio taking the chequered flag. Just two weeks later, the Argentine legend triumphed again at the French Grand Prix, held in Champagne’s own Reims-Gueux circuit. Two enthusiastic local racing aficionados, Paul Chandon-Moët and his cousin, Count Frédéric Chandon de Briailles, were in attendance. After the race, Fangio was invited to the Château de Saran for a private toast. The connection between Moët & Chandon and motorsport extends way beyond Formula 1. In 1936, legendary driver Tazio Nuvolari celebrated his victory in The Vanderbilt Cup by sipping Champagne from a Jeroboam of Moët & Chandon. However, the now-iconic tradition of celebratory spraying was born in 1967, when Dan Gurney, overcome with joy after winning the 24 Hours of Le Mans, shook a Jeroboam and showered the crowd in jubilant fashion. A tradition was thus established, one that would come to define podium celebrations across Formula 1 and beyond.

Alcohol sponsorship in sport

Of course, no conversation about alcohol sponsorship in Formula 1, and sport in general, would be complete without acknowledging the shifting landscape of advertising ethics and responsibility. But Formula 1 without a Champagne-soaked podium is akin to Monaco without the glamour or Monza without the Tifosi — simply unthinkable. As Moët & Chandon resumes its place at the centre of these moments, it will be refreshing to see the victories of today toasted with the same joy and fervour as those of yesteryear. Dry podiums? Perish the thought!

Give your Champagne the ‘glam squad’ treatment

Sarah Neish — Wed, 05 Feb 2025 17:00:31 +0000

Coco Chanel recommended taking off the last item you put on before leaving the house to avoid looking overdressed. But if the last thing to adorn your Champagne is a Masters medal then we reckon it's worth keeping. Enter your wine into the Champagne Masters 2025 and give your bottle some bling. Coco Chanel also famously said that "a girl should be two things: classy and fabulous", and we couldn't agree more. If you think your Champagne has what it takes to meet this strident criteria then don't miss out on the chance to enter your exceptional fizz into the Champagne Masters 2025. The only blind tasting competition dedicated to Champagne in the UK, the Champagne Masters assesses the very best expressions on the market, from small growers to grandes marques, with no prior knowledge of producer. Instead, wines are sorted by style and price before being tasted by some of the finest palates in the world: a panel of Masters of Wine, Master Sommeliers and senior Champagne buyers only. The competition will be chaired by editor-in-chief of the drinks business, Patrick Schmitt MW.

Shout it from the rooftops

Worthy wines will be awarded Bronze, Silver and Gold medals, with the best-in-class receiving the highest accolade of Champagne Master. Furthermore, our judges will select one overall outstanding wine that impressed above all others on the day, singling it out as as the Grand Master. The results will be published in April in db's dedicated annual Champagne report. They will also be republished online on the website, in our daily newsletter and on all social media platforms. You can check out last year's impressive haul of winners here. Deadline for entry is 19 February 2025. To enter your Champagne, please contact Sophie Raichura at sophie.raichura@unionpress.co.uk

Champagne’s secret to consistency and complexity

Kathleen Willcox — Wed, 05 Feb 2025 10:12:04 +0000

As the ultra-premium wine industry evolves, Champagne and sparkling wine producers are mastering the art of terroir through innovative ageing techniques, Kathleen Willcox finds. Terroir encompasses the complete natural environment in which a wine is produced. For many, that means soil, topography and climate. But, as producers compete for a seemingly ever-smaller piece of the wine-drinking pie, vintners are managing to extract and highlight more specific terroir aspects. For sparkling wine and Champagne producers, that sometimes means sourcing grapes from one Grand Cru village or vineyard. Other times, it means showcasing the terroir of their estate or house through the perpetual reserve or solera system of ageing.

How it works

Champagne has notoriously unreliable growing conditions, and a convention of producing non-vintage cuvées emerged to allow vintners to stay in the black during cold years. Typically, a non-vintage Champagne includes the base wine made from the most recent harvest, with additional wines from older harvests kept in reserve. Traditionally, producers hold back a portion of each wine from a given year and keep it in reserve for the future. Cellarmasters play with proportions of years and grapes, seeking the most harmonious blend for each release. This tradition arguably reaches its apotheosis in releases like Krug’s Grand Cuvée, a blend of more than 120 wines from a minimum of 10 years. An alternative system has emerged, with both logistical and gustatory benefits. Dubbed the perpetual reserve or solera system, it allows winemakers to reserve all of their wine in one vessel. It’s a space saver, allowing smaller grower-style houses to pool large quantities of reserve wine into one vessel. It also allows producers to maintain a consistency of house style from year to year that would be impossible otherwise. “Scharffenberger has been using the perpetual reserve or solera system, which are terms I use interchangeably because they are so similar, since 1981 when we got started,” says Scharffenberger Cellar’s winemaker, Jeffrey Jindra. “We made six tanks worth of wine and held one back. We added to the next year’s vintage the following year and maintained the reserve by blending all of the years together. Every year, our wines include about 80% of that year’s harvest, and the rest is a blend of our previous vintages.” The practice never made a splash in the public consciousness the way some new techniques do, says Dave Parker, founder of the rare wine retailer, the Napa-based Benchmark Wine Group. Champagne Jacques Selosse is often credited as the first house to formally utilise a solera system that is typically associated with Sherry production after Anselme Selosse joined the estate in 1974. In addition to eventually focusing on Grand Cru vineyards and organic farming, in 1986 (after petitioning the Comité Interprofessional du Vin de Champagne) he began using the solera-style fractional ageing in which older liquid is removed from intricately stacked tiers of barrels and replaced with newer liquid, as a way to provide wines of a constant average age. “As revolutions go, even in the wine industry, this is a quieter one,” Parker says. “It wasn’t as noisy as the Barolo Boys in Piemonte, but that doesn’t make it less meaningful. Using a solera system adds to the consistency of the blend year over year.” Blending is inherent to the process of making all top-tier Champagne, but this throughline delivers a certain flavour, texture and quality that collectors and enthusiasts (sometimes even unconsciously) come to associate with a house.

A shortcut to freshness and complexity

One of the key attributes of quality Champagne is a balance between brightness and deep flavour. The perpetual reserve system allows producers to consistently have it both ways. At Champagne Palmer, MD Rémi Vervier says they’ve been using the perpetual reserve system for decades. (The perpetual reserve system is a simplified version of the solera system; both systems blend wines of older vintages into newer ones, but with perpetual reserve, there are fewer, larger containers of blended vintages). “We’ve had this method in practice for nearly 50 years,” Vervier says. “Our cellarmaster likens it to a chef’s use of a special ingredient to elevate a dish. The process allows the older wine to impart its wisdom and depth, while the younger wine contributes vibrancy and energy.” In other words, balance: is equal parts depth and liveliness. It is also an invaluable gift in off years when conditions are not ideal for producing a top-tier vintage. The process at Champagne Palmer reaches its apotheosis in the La Réserve collection, which showcases the house’s passion for blending and leveraging the power of reserve wines. Built on the principles of a perpetual reserve, the collection includes wines that are composed of previous blends of La Réserve, with future reserve wines continuing to incorporate parts of the current blend. Most non-vintage Champagnes are produced using a blend of wines from a few recent harvests, but La Réserve includes between three and four years of reserve wines, each of which contains multiple vintage years. “This creates a continuous thread of Champagne DNA that runs through each iteration, ensuring a remarkable consistency while also adding layers of complexity,” Vervier explains, adding that there is an increasing interest in the line, and the perpetual reserve method more broadly, from both connoisseurs and more casual enthusiasts.

Establishing and ensuring a house’s terroir

“We are noticing that more and more wine enthusiasts are seeking to deepen their understanding of a house’s style,” Vervier says. “And we’ve found that can be found particularly with non-vintage cuvées, which are the ultimate expression of a house’s identity.” Nicolas Jaeger, Champagne Alfred Gratien’s fourth-generation cellarmaster, says that his father initiated their perpetual reserve system in 1990. The system lays the groundwork for remarkable and consistent freshness in the wines, and also a distinct house style, he says. “It ensures consistency of style from year to year,” he says. “As custodians of the house’s style, we work with whatever nature provides us each year. The reserve, together with our barrel winemaking process, enables us to preserve our distinctive house style year after year.” Many enthusiasts still don’t have the language to ask for what they want though, says Annie Edgerton, wine educator and appraiser. While she marvels at the fact that “there are potentially molecules of wine in your glass that are as old as when the perpetual reserve or solera system was established,” Edgerton wonders how much of the “enchanting mystique” is lost on enthusiasts. “A perpetual reserve is like a snapshot of a much wider range of vintages, putting the spotlight on the vineyards and winemaking philosophy more completely,” she notes. “But if you ask most consumers, I can’t believe you’ll find many who say they only or never drink perpetual reserve bubbles.” Many of her customers aren’t even familiar with the concept. “They just know if they like a sparkler with aroma and flavour elements from longer-aged wines,” Edgerton says. “But at the very least, it’s a talking point that can engage a customer, which is always helpful when they’re standing in front of a wall of Champagnes looking confused.”

Collector awareness on the rise

While Champagne lovers may not be dialled into the details of the perpetual reserve and solera system, Parker says that a certain cohort of collectors are aware of the (still quite limited) practice. “Selosse (particularly their Substance Champagne) is famed for this process, and collectors and connoisseurs highly prize all of their bottlings, Champagne Bereche et Fils also uses the solera system and is noted by collectors,” Parker says, adding that while others like Champagne Beerens and Champagne Gamet also use it, their products have not drawn as much interest from collectors yet. Utilising the solera and perpetual reserve system is a way to stand out in the market, to both collectors in the know, and bubbleheads who love what they taste, and will remember the experience—even if they can’t explain or name the reason behind it. After all, how many wine enthusiasts know and care about the intricacies of wild-yeast fermentation, the merits of lightly toasted oak barrels, or the importance of Brix levels when grapes are harvested? They just know what they like — and know they want to buy it again, and again.

Champagne’s organic growers undeterred despite difficult vintage

Patrick Schmitt — Mon, 03 Feb 2025 11:03:36 +0000

Last year’s wet growing conditions in Champagne affected everyone, but the real test came for organic growers, who – without the aid of systemic fungicides – saw their crop decimated. Nevertheless, they remain undeterred in pursuing their farming philosophy.

That was the message following conversations with a few of Champagne’s biggest organic grape growers, who saw, in some vineyards, their production from the 2024 harvest wiped out completely – costing them huge sums. Whatever your approach to managing vines in Champagne, particularly badly hit was the Côte des Bars in the southerly Aube department, where some vignerons harvested nothing, others, if they were lucky, around 3-4,000kg/ha – a significant shortfall on the 10,000kg/ha limit set for 2024 by the controlling organisation, Comité Champagne. Speaking last month to db about the conditions, Michel Drappier, who is head of Aube-based grower and maison Champagne Drappier, said that last year’s conditions were unprecedented. “We are certified organic, so it is a nightmare to fight against mildew,” he said of the fungus that spread through his vineyards following wet summertime conditions. “It is the worst crop of my working life, and it was my 50^th harvest – my first, as a picker in my teenaged years, was 1974, and that was not a good year, but this was worse,” he recalled. In Urville, where Drappier is based, the average yield was 2-3000kg/ha he said, “but in some parts, we had almost zero”, he recorded, commenting that his pickers had scoured the vineyards, even if “there was just one grape in a row.” Summing up the impact in monetary terms, he stated: “It has cost us a fortune.” So why was it so bad? Just as the vines were budding in the spring, the Aube area of Champagne was hit by icy conditions, due to a mass of freezing air from eastern Europe, which Drappier dubbed “the Moscow-Paris”, and this damaged as much as 60% of the new buds in his vineyards (and surrounding areas). Although the vine is able to produce shoots from secondary buds, these tend to be more fragile, with narrower sap canals, making them more susceptible to fungal attacks, according to Drappier. And that meant, when mildew spread across the region following an unusually wet summer, the vines were less resistant to the fungal infection. But the bad experience of last year’s harvest has not put him off organics, an approach he has long practiced on his estate – indeed, he is moving further towards non-interventionist vine management techniques, such as regenerative practices, which are beginning at Drappier, spearheaded by Michel’s son Hugo. As for the “small crop” harvested last year by the property, “the grapes we have are fantastic quality, with no botrytis, and the wines we are tasting are really good,” he said, “And better than 2023” – a year that was contrasting in quantity: it produced the heaviest bunches ever picked in Champagne.

Don't ditch organics

Elsewhere, at Champagne Telmont, which is based in Damery, not far from Epernay in the Marne Valley, “2024 was difficult”, according to cellar master Bertrand Lhôpital, who told db that more than 70% of the producer’s vineyards are farmed organically. “We lost between 50-70% of grapes due to mildew,” he said, which will probably mean that the house won’t make any vintage Champagnes from the 2024 harvest, using all its crop to make non-vintage expressions – which blend in wines from preceding years. The maximum yield recorded by an organic grape grower in Champagne last year was 7-8,000kg/ha according to Lhôpital, although “some lost 100%” he said, referring to producers in the Côte des Bar. While he admitted that he has heard murmurings about ditching organics among some organic growers, he said that his advice would be not to take the decision too quickly. “Organics is a commitment, and needs resilience and a lot of energy – it’s a huge decision to go back,” he said. Looking to the recent past, he said that he had feared some organic growers might go back to conventional practices after the difficult 2021 harvest in Champagne, when some producers lost almost all their crop to mildew. However, he said, “they kept going” with the farming philosophy, which sees vignerons eschew any systemic fungicides. With 2021 and 2024 both seeing widespread mildew infections for producers in Champagne, Lhôpital believes there may be “a small reduction in organic grape growers” this year, “but not too much”. He explained, “Our [organic] growers are now thinking of next harvest, they are in another mood, and they are confident at this stage: we are learning every year, and every year we have to adapt, but you need to take in the fact that we could have a bad harvest every four years.” Indeed, Lhôpital would like to see a little more flexibility in the rules for certified organic grape growers, allowing, for instance, an increase in the level of copper applications – which are used to treat mildew – when the fungal infection is “exceptional”. “People say that copper is damaging to the soil, but that is not true at the levels it is used today, which are ten times less than 40 years ago, when it might have been 40kg/ha, now it is [capped at] 4kg/ha – but in a year like 2024, perhaps it could have been 5kg/ha to help protect the harvest; we have to adapt the rules of organics,” he said.

Fantastic wines from organic vines

Meanwhile, at Champagne Bollinger – which is based in Aÿ, on the edge of the Montagne de Reims – yields were also down markedly from last year’s harvest due to the combination of weather conditions and organic farming. “The 2024 harvest was tough, we had so much rain, and the team had to work two times as hard to get two times fewer grapes than the year before,” Bollinger MD Charles-Armand de Belenet told db. Having “implemented organic farming on all our vineyards”, which amounts to certification on 110 hectares, De Belenet said that he was looking at around a 50% reduction in yields compared to the Comite’s limit of 10,000kg/ha. Should those vines still be managed “conventionally”, he said that the crop losses in 2024 might be around 20%, “depending on soil type and exposure”. Aside from the benefits to soil life from practising organics in the vineyard, the lower yields of 2024 brought about another positive – grape quality. “The quantity is down, but the quality is very promising,” he said, adding that the reduction in crop brought about a desirable concentration of flavours in the berries picked, which were clean and balanced, following dry, sunny conditions during harvesting, with cool nights. Furthermore, the wines that were being tasted for the first time last month are “fantastic”, he recorded, especially those based on Pinot Noir, with De Belenet forecasting the production of high-end vintage expressions from the house based on 2024. As for the reduced yields from the harvest, he said that Champagne, and particularly Bollinger, were buffered against this setback due to the region’s system of keeping a reserve of wines for blending when there is a shortfall. “Our insurance is the reserve, and for Bollinger, we use 50-60% reserve wines [for its Special Cuvée Brut NV], which is a fantastic insurance for us,” he said. “If you use 20% reserve wines then if might be difficult to move to organic farming, but we are quite unique with this [high level of] reserve, which means we can be secure in our quality and quantity of wines,” he summed up.

Big changes planned for the capital of Champagne

Patrick Schmitt — Mon, 27 Jan 2025 10:58:57 +0000

If you head to Épernay right now, you’ll find a series of massive construction projects underway as major changes are afoot for the town, which is considered to be the capital of Champagne. For those arriving by train, you will immediately notice that the car park in front of the station has been dug up, with a view to being landscaped, although there will still be a pick-up and drop-off area for motorists and taxis. However, the much great development is taking place five minutes’ walk from the Epernay train station, near the Avenue de Champagne – where the great maisons of the region’s Grandes Marques are situated, housing an increasing number of oenotourism facilities, from restaurants and bars to educational experiences. At the base of this famous tree-lined Champagne street is a roundabout, which is where you will see the start of a massive new project for what is a fairly small town, home to around 20,000 people. Already installed to one side of the roundabout is a new car park, featuring more than 400 spaces spread over six underground levels. As you can see above and in the video below, it’s a circular design, with a separate entry and exit system, dug 30m into the ground. Importantly, because of this new facility, not only can the train station car park be greened over, but a much larger car park, situated behind the new underground structure, called Parking Charles de Gaulle, is being removed altogether and turned into a park with avenues and a mirror pond. It’s a huge site, covering more than a hectare that formerly provided parking for as many as 650 cars, but one that will be re-imagined as a green space. Furthermore, at the end that is nearest the roundabout (and underground car park) will be a major new hotel from the Marriott group, which will be four floors high, with a restaurant and terrace, with views over the new gardens. Part of its Tribute collection, the hotel will comprise around 110 rooms, along with a spa, and shops on the ground floor (see picture below). Speaking about the development to db last week, Nathalie Doucet, president at Champagne Besserat de Bellefon, said that the new green space would be “beautiful” with a diverse collection of tree species, describing the project as “breathing new life into Epernay”. Although works on the site are due to finish by September this year, Doucet said that she thought it was more likely that the park would be ready by early 2026, with the hotel probably opening in 2027. Notably, she said that the balloon ride that is situated in this new development, which takes people 150m off the ground – providing panoramic views of the town and surrounding vineyards – was going to be removed. Although a popular tourist attraction, it has suffered setbacks due to the weather, with winds causing the ride to be closed regularly, she said. This is a shame for Champagne Besserat de Bellefon, which has recently finished its new headquarters immediately in front of the balloon, where the house now has an eighteenth-century maison featuring a bar and restaurant, as well as three suites for rent. However, the new gardens and landscaped areas outside Besserat de Bellefon’s building will provide a more beautiful outlook than the current design, while bringing more people to this part of the town. The only question mark now hangs over the future of the old police station next door to Besserat de Bellefon, which has been empty for more than a year after a modern facility was constructed for Epernay’s forces on an out-of-town site. Although the old police station is in “terrible condition” according to Doucet, it is an architecturally-important nineteenth-century stone building with a large garden at the back. There is much interest in the site, which is going to auction soon, said Doucet, who believes it may be bought by Champagne Moët & Chandon for use as office space, as well as parking for its staff. It's also thought possible that the building may provide a boutique for sister brands in the Moët Hennessy stable, including its fashion division. https://youtu.be/5BI4UXJxlQA https://youtu.be/ptGHvvBrggM

Southeast Asia’s first Champagne festival debuts in Singapore

Nimmi Malhotra — Fri, 24 Jan 2025 10:38:40 +0000

With Champagne riding a wave of popularity in Singapore, Nimmi Malhotra finds out why now is the "right time, right place" for Southeast Asia's first festival dedicated to the French sparkling wine. Singapore offers a bright spot in the face of falling Champagne exports. The city-state is experiencing rising interest, especially for grower Champagnes, and is set to host the first and largest Southeast Asia-based Champagne festival from 7-9 March 2025. Conceived by Matt Lamb, group beverage manager at Lo and Behold Group, Uncorked Champagne will feature 30 Champagne producers, an all-day walkabout tasting, producer-led masterclasses and a series of recovery brunches at various venues over three days. Producers range from Dom Pérignon, Champagne Drappier and Charles Heidsieck to grower Champagnes like JL Vergnon, Adrien Renoir and Champagne Clandestine. Winemakers from more than 80% of the estates will be present to engage with attendees with more than 100 cuvées of wine on pour. "We are trying to showcase the full spectrum of what Champagne can be," said Lamb, a self-confessed Champagne lover who has travelled to the region extensively. As the general manager of Lo and Behold group's online wine retail arm, Clink Clink, he imports a number of niche Champagne producers. Lamb noted the huge demand for Champagne within Singapore and a growing interest beyond the big names. "Gone are the days of people having cellars filled with the grand marques and nothing else. People are drinking more interesting and diverse Champagnes," he said. Lamb attributes interest in grower Champagnes to increased knowledge in the local market. Consumers are looking for more premium wine options after being priced out from their favourite white burgundies and prestige Champagnes. Grower champagnes, with their focus on terroir, fills the gap. Private clients are asking for new names. The interest flows through to online sales platform and F&B venues. Across the country, wine menus at the city's restaurants and wine bars increasingly list artisanal Champagne options besides more prominent names. The offerings range from cult wine producers such as Frederic Savart and Egly-Ouriet to first-generation Champagne producers such as Emmanuel Brochet. When it comes to Uncorked Champagne, Lamb admits such an event wouldn't have been possible five years ago when he moved to Singapore from Australia, but the market is mature now. "It's the right time, right place," he said. The festival will take place at New Bahru, a new entertainment district in Singapore owned by Lo and Behold Group. Ticket prices range from SG$88 to SG$390. Lamb said the organisers are "expecting to pop around 1,000 bottles across three days".

10 iconic drinks moments in film

Sophie Arundel — Wed, 22 Jan 2025 09:19:33 +0000

Whether it’s Bond’s martini, Carrie’s Cosmo, or Gatsby’s Moët, db highlights some of the most iconic nods to alcohol in film and TV. As January rolls in, many of us retreat into hibernation mode. The festive whirl of party cocktails and social soirées has been swapped for cosy nights on the sofa, and Dry January has nudged us to trade the bar for the blanket. So, while we’re toning down on the tipples for a while, its the perfect time to indulge in some on-screen nostalgia. Here are 10 films and TV classics that serve up iconic alcohol moments to add to your winter watchlist.

Sex and the City – Carrie's signature Cosmopolitan

Could there be a more iconic 90s cocktail than the Cosmopolitan? Sex and the City didn't just make the Cosmo famous; it made it a cultural icon. With its blend of vodka, triple sec, cranberry, and lime juice, the bright pink drink became synonymous with Carrie Bradshaw and her fabulous New York life. The drink's backstory is equally fitting; series creator Candace Bushnell loved Cosmos herself, so it only made sense that her alter ego, Carrie, would sip them religiously. Watching the SATC gang gossip over these glamorous cocktails is practically a rite of passage for any comfort movie or series watching evening.

Top Gun: Maverick – Budweiser and beer galore

In one of the opening scenes in Top Gun: Maverick, just like the 1986 original, the sequel honours its roots with a cameo from an all-American favourite: Budweiser. From bar banter to bonfires, the red-labelled lager is the beverage of choice for Maverick and his crew. While the original Top Gun boasted four minutes of Budweiser screen time (and some admittedly cringeworthy one-lines like, "I’m going to need a beer to put these flames out," the sequel dials it down with just over two minutes of bottles, beer taps, and branded cups. It’s a subtle nod to the past, much like the film itself, and a perfect pairing for Cruise’s return to the cockpit.

The Great Gatsby – Moët Champagne (in excess)

There's no denying nothing says decadence like the Champagne-soaked scenes of The Great Gatsby. In Baz Luhrmann’s adaptation, Leonardo DiCaprio’s Gatsby hosts parties where Champagne flows like waterfalls—a nod to the opulence of the Roaring Twenties. From Nick’s observation that “Champagne was served in glasses bigger than finger-bowls” to the boozy revelry of Gatsby’s infamous soirées, every frame glistens with effervescence. Even if your January is decidedly less extravagant, there's no doubt the film will put you right back in the party mood.

Cocktail – Cruise's colourful creations

Tom Cruise again, but this time behind a bar, not a cockpit. The film Cocktail isn’t just a love letter to mixology; it’s a poetry slam disguised as a film. Cruise’s Brian Flanagan gives us the unforgettable (if slightly ridiculous) “last barman poet” monologue, rattling off cocktail names like “Sex on the Beach,” “The Singapore Sling,” and “The Alabama Slammer." The movie’s vibrant drinks and sun-drenched Jamaican backdrops will have you dreaming of warmer climates—and maybe even breaking Dry January for a cheeky martini. But for now, it’s all about soaking in the 80s charm and flamboyant bar-top theatrics.

James Bond – The Vodka Martini

And of course, it would be rude not to include one of the most iconic drinks in film of all: James Bond’s vodka martini. Shaken, not stirred has become more than a catchphrase; it’s one of cinemas best lines. While Ian Fleming first introduced Bond’s preferred cocktail in Moonraker, it wasn’t until Dr. No that Sean Connery brought it to life on screen. Over decades, Bond’s martini has become a character in its own right, appearing in nearly every film as a symbol of sophistication and suaveness. No comfort movie list, or discussion of on-screen alcohol for that matter, would be complete without it. My personal favourite moment, when Daniel Craig explains the 'correct' way to make a vesper martini across a poker table in Casino Royale, 2006.

Sideways – Pinot Noir and Merlot

Few films have done more for wine appreciation than Sideways. The 2004 indie classic follows two friends on a road trip through California’s wine country, and it’s a love letter to the complexities of wine—particularly Pinot Noir. Paul Giamatti’s character, Miles, is a devoted Pinot Noir enthusiast, waxing poetic about its delicate nature and its ability to thrive in the right conditions. His passionate monologue about the grape variety has become iconic, sparking a real-world surge in Pinot Noir sales following the film’s release. On the flip side, Sideways is also infamous for its disdain for Merlot. Miles’ emphatic “I am NOT drinking any [expletive] Merlot!” became a rallying cry for Pinot Noir lovers and reportedly caused a dip in Merlot’s popularity. The film doesn’t just highlight wine—it celebrates the ritual of wine tasting, the art of pairing, and the emotional connections we make through shared bottles. Whether you’re a wine aficionado or a casual sipper, Sideways is a heartfelt exploration of how wine brings people together.

The Big Lebowski – White Russian

From suave sophistication to slacker chic, we have The Dude and his beloved White Russian. The vodka, coffee liqueur, and cream concoction is as laid-back as its perpetually chilled-out protagonist. Whether he’s navigating chaos or bowling with his buddies, The Dude always has a “Caucasian” in hand. Comforting, indulgent, and effortlessly cool—much like The Big Lebowski itself.

Another round - simply, a lot of alcohol

Although not the picture of moderation—and perhaps not entirely in keeping with Dry January—Another Round offers an exploration of alcohol’s role in society and human behaviour. This Danish film, starring Mads Mikkelsen, is an ode to the highs and lows of imbibing, blending humour, tragedy, and a touch of existential reflection. The plot centres on four middle-aged teachers who embark on an experiment inspired by a (very questionable) theory: that humans are born with a blood alcohol deficit of 0.05%, and maintaining that level throughout the day could unlock greater creativity, confidence, and joie de vivre. What sets Another Round apart is its ambivalence. The film neither glorifies nor condemns drinking. Instead, it offers a nuanced look at alcohol’s dual role in our lives: a social lubricant and a potential source of ruin. Its honesty resonates, especially in cultures where drinking is deeply embedded in social rituals.

Groundhog Day – Sweet Vermouth on the Rocks with a Twist

In Groundhog Day, Andie MacDowell’s Rita sips her favourite drink—Sweet Vermouth on the Rocks with a Twist. This simple yet elegant choice becomes a symbol of connection as Bill Murray’s Phil repeatedly tries to win her over. Whether you’re stuck in a time loop or not, this understated cocktail is a gentle reminder that sometimes, less is more.

Casablanca - The French 75

Few films are as synonymous with romance as Casablanca. At Rick’s Café Américain, the French 75—a heady mix of gin, lemon juice, sugar, and Champagne—plays a supporting role to Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman’s doomed love story. Sophisticated and sharp, much like the film itself, the French 75 is the perfect toast to bittersweet memories.

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